Just Started on my CMC Speedster

Hey guys, I've just started on the CMC Speedster that I bought back in 1994. I've got the chasis cut down and starting to work on the suspension. I'm having the front beam and the IRS arms narrowed so I can run wider tires. I've got the classis without the flared wheels wells. I'm also going to run disc brakes, front and rear. I'm using new cast dropped spindles. Does anybody have any other suggestions for the suspension?

With respect to the engine I was planning on going with a 1776, a mild cam and a single 40 mm Weber. However, now that I've decided to go to the extra expense to be able to run wider tires, I'd like to see about a bigger/hotter engine. My concern is that I've been told that a 1776 is about as big as I should go because of the cooling problem associated with the speedster. Does anybody have any experience with larger engines in the Speedster and how the over-heating problems can be handled.

One last question, at least for now, I want to use the five bolt VW wheels, are there disc brake kits that will work?

Thanks for any help you might be able to lend.

My car has a 165 to 170 BHP full-flowed 2,110 type 1 engine with a type 4 cooler in modified doghouse shroud with no additional cooler, but runs a Porsche 356/912 fan pulley in spring and summer (stock VW pulley in fall and winter (the increased fan speed should use a welded and balanced fan). Oil temps never exceed 215 F on a 95 F day at 70 mph cruise (3,250 RPM).

Buy a stainless steel "butterfly vent" from a boat shop (or West Marine catalog) and install it in the firewall opposite where the type 1 fan opening will be to vastly improve cooling; also use a screen with the vent to keep leaves and junk out of the fan/engine. Open the vent for warm/hot weather and close it cool/cold. I would advise you to have a shop tack-weld the butterfly vent knob where it is swedged to the rotating piece to keep it from coming loose. I haven't insalled the vent in my car but will the next time the engine is out; this mod is good for a 10 to 20 F oil temperture drop and lower cylinder head temperatures.

If you have a forged stock VW crankshaft (as opposed to the cast cranks) the least expensive performance engine would be a 1,915cc engine with decent ported heads with larger valves, dual 40 or 44 Weber IDF's, and a merged 1 1/2" exhaust system with 1 1/2" heater boxes.

I believe CHIRCO has a 5 wide disc brake for sand rails with no provisions for E brakes. They suggest it is only for off road and light weight to 1200 lbs.
If you're leaning towards bigger tires and power to turn them you may have to consider a diff wheel... Or, maybe some one else knows how you can work it with the 5 lug vw rim.

www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1140

CB Perf. currently has the front wide-5 disk setups and are working on the rears.

There have been numerous posts regarding engine size for a Speedster replica. I would estimate that they run about 9 to 1 for BIG engine (1915cc and up) with dual Dels/Webers, performance cam, etc.

It would seem that, from Speedster owner experience installing a smaller engine is one of the big mistakes a Speedster owner can make.

Thanks everyone for your comments. With respect to the 5-bolt pattern wheels, I've decided to blow-off that idea. They're more expensive and are wider and I don't want that. Plus, there are more options with 4-bolt pattern.

Goerge, based on your comments, I'm going to go with a stroker, probably 78 x 90.5, and a good set of P&P heads. I would, though, like to stay with a mild cam and single carb, with the option of going to dual carbs later. Does this make sense? I want sometihing that is very driveable around town, I'm not looking for a tire burner and I'm not going to be doing any drag racing. What do you think about hydraulic cams?

Ron,
Based upon the bore/stroke combination you are thinking about, I am wondering if you have already chosen an engine builder. This is the size engine I have been considering for a future build and yes, an underpowered car is probably not what you would want. I have a 1776cc engine with single carb, and it is "spritely" but definately lacking in performance. A friend of mine who has had considerable racing training and experience and drives a heavily breathed on 356 SC noted how my engine ran well but definately lacked the grunt for spirited driving. Sprited driving in this case is defined as the ability to power out of a curve, not tire screeching stoplight drag racing.

Do give serious thought to dual carbs from the start. Some applications are not that hard to keep in tune, from what I've read, and think carefully about hydraulic lifters. Keeping solids adjusted is not that difficult and are probably a better choice in the long run.
my two kroner
John H
2000 VS

Another option is you can put a turbo kit on a smallish engine. Aircooled.net sells one that is a bolt-on kit. The press it is getting sounds good.

I would stay away from hydraulic cams/lifters and single carburetors on any performance engine; setting valves is a fairly simple 30 minute, get your hands a little dirty job.

Dual carburetors are not that difficult to tune/sync and stay in tune and sync as long as you have good gasoline and fuel filter. For a mild (as opposed to wild) 78x90.5 dual Weber 40 IDF's would work quite well and give good gas mileage.

John, I have not deceded on an engine builder yet, any suggestions? I've build a few engines myself in the past, but maininly V8's, only two VW's. It looks to me that it's really not that much more expensive getting someone who really knows what their doing to bulid it for me. With respect to the dual carbs, one of my concerns is gas miliage. Should I not be worried about that?

George, I made my last post before I saw your last one. Thanks for the advice, guess I'll go with the solid lifters and the dual carbs. Don't you also think it would be worth the expense to use an experienced engine builder rather than doing it myself? Could you recommend someone?

The best VW engine builder in the business is Jake Raby. Checkout www.aircooledtechnology.com/. Then again, Jake's engines are not cheap to buy. However long term Jake's engines may be a best buy.

Jake is one of the best (just ask him?) but my choice for a type 1 engine would be Pat Downs at CB Performance. Pat will build it correctly with quality parts (CB has very nice forged counterweighted chrome-moly crankshafts, light flywheels, H-beam rods, CNC ported 044 cylinder heads, etc.) and dyno test it before delivery.

A nice "from scratch" balanced engine could probably be had for $5,000 to $6,000 depending on what you want.

Ron,
I would agree that either Pat or Jake will build you a fine engine. When I get around to it, I would probably choose Jake because his place of business is within reasonable driving distance of my home and Pat's isn't. I am also impressed with his website, reputation and apparent availability to "talk engines" with his potential customers.

As far as gas mileage goes, a properly set up performance engine designed for street use will give good mileage as long as you keep your foot out of it. My friends 356 SC gets about 20 mpg when he's runnin' it and about 30 mpg when just cruzin'. Those are decent numbers in my book.
John H

I'm going to add Harmon to the list. He's in DFW (actually mid-cities)=. Specializing in 200+ horsepower motors, as well as bulletproof transmissions, his full service, state of the art shop offers everything from flow bench work to dyno testing and more. www.harmonracing.com