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At least 2 others here on SOC.  One was having problems mounting his doors using the supplied Honda hinges.  The other, I think, has a Coupe and was going to stop by to compare.  The build manual that is online at their site is the old CMC manual - so not a great matchup to their kit.

Door Mounting | 356 Speedster, 550 Spyder, Replica, Automotive Community (speedsterowners.com)

Last edited by WOLFGANG

The CMC build manual leaves the builder to resolve many issues. One is the windshield installation which their instructions are poorly addressed.  It would be a positive business model for Kitman to actually assemble both their Coupe and a Speedster and produce their own specific build manuals. It's not easy to take on a large build project, that includes major fabrication skills, parts sourcing and mechanical knowledge.

Thanks for the replies, I am not trying to start a bash Kitman thread I was just wondering if anyone building one of these from Kitman is having the same issues.  For example I had to mount the body to the frame this week so I can transport it to a new garage and I found out that the engine firewall is 2.5" to far toward the back of the car.  It actuall hits the oil cooler housing on the back of my doghouse fan shroud.   

I've seen this issue on a number of home builds which is fixable via a couple different ways but in general a pita to do. The frame has to be perfectly level, if it is out a few degrees from absolute horizontal plane, you can run into the oil cooler to firewall clearance and the deck lid hinges hitting the shroud.  This is why I posted above..... " they need to build it "

When home builders cut and shorten their own pans, there is variability. We minimize the fitment issues by offering a complete tube VIN chassis for folks that do not want to deal with this.  Measurements have to be exact and even. When we do shorten pans, they are precisely jigged and assembled for strength. .......especially when builders want to put high torque electric motors in.

While my subchassis can act as a template for shortening a VW bug chassis....measurements have to be double checked and checked again. A "step cut" with external gusseting has been a good option for shortening the main tube. The subchassis has proven to be very helpful for our Canadian and Australian customers who cannot import VIN chassis.

I hope this helps to explain our rationale for what we produce. Every car is a bit different with each builder. We have standardization in our production process but once it leaves my control for final assembly differences occur. We make the base pieces that you cannot buy "off of the shelf".  Then you decide how to put the Lego pieces together.

In a "previous lifetime" , we did build complete cars and found that the hassles outweighed the rewards. The comment about the AZ Spyder in Chandler was from a builder that will not be mentioned and is no longer in busness for many reasons. That is why I simplified my business model ( and overhead $$) to return to profitability and quality.

As far as the build manual goes.... the old CMC manual (thank you  SO Library resources!)  is a general guide to give the builder a better idea of the process as opposed to an exact recipe. Every builder wants a car to their own desires , I have learned.

PM me here or e mail me or Jonathan if you have additional questions.

George.. get in touch with us and we will do our best to see what is going on.

kitmanmotors.j@gmail.com

kitmanmotors.c@ gmail.com

Thanks,

Dr.Chris

Last edited by Theron
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