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I’m afraid my poor motor is on its last legs. A couple of summers ago, and several different oil types and weights, my oil light started to flicker at idle.

At first it was at 900rpm. I changed oil and it stopped for a while. I raised my idle. It seems the flicker is chasing all my remedies.

Based on a chat with my local Classic AC guru, I bought a few things to see if I can get another couple of years out of it.

I wanted to do thing incrementally, so if I cured it, I’d know what did it. Consequently, today with my winter 10W-40 in, I installed one of the late model oil bypass valves. These have a little cutout that I understand is to get oil through the oil cooler sooner for the FI models, but everyone sells them as a way to increase oil pressure.

It definitely raised the oil pressure, but it had a side effect of taking forever to warm up. It was almost 30 minutes of city driving before it got up to 1/3 of the way into the solid white line in the gauge. The flicker went from happening below 1200 rpm to below 1,000.

Next on the agenda was a change to the Motul Classic 20W-50 I posted about in the other thread. It seemed to warm up quicker (probably because the motor was still pretty warm from before the oil change) and the flicker dropped to <1,000.

I set the idle to 1100, and it pretty much runs flicker free, for now.

To back up a bit, the first thing I did, on Dave’s (AC guy) recommendation was to install an oil pressure gauge go verify my sender/gauge is working properly. It’s spot on. Flicker is at 4psi, full on at 3, which is factory specs. So today when I finished playing, I checked the pressure and it’s running at 5-6 with the idle at 1100.

Next up is to install a 26mm CB/Shadek oil pump. I’d really love to get the hot oil pressure up to 8-10 psi at idle, but that may be asking too much of my tired old motor.


btw: Speaking of the knock in the thread title, in this ongoing saga I kept think (hallucinating??) I was hearing a knock from my engine. After I put the Motul in, it was smooth/quiet enough to realize the “knock” I was hearing was simply a weird harmonic of my exhaust that’s happening once per revolution of my engine.

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I am FAR from the oil expert but I work with several outside guys (like Jake Raby/RAT and Charles Nevarro/LN Engineering) who have spent more time and money diagnosing and developing oils than I care to think about.  Keep in mind that I am only repeating this info, but I had a long conversation with Charles last year regarding modern oils and aircooled engines and how the oil formulation for modern DFI engines is pretty much the opposite of what we want and he was talking about modern oils and pre-detonation, resulting in knocking/pinging from the OIL.  Yes, small droplets bypassing the rings and pre-spark detonation from the OIL.  I won't try and repeat anymore, because again I just don't know enough on the subject and we use oil especially formulated for aircooled engines (Driven DT50 is my current choice) without any issue, but just throwing that out there as "food for thought"

Carey, many companies are now producing oil for older engines. Motul has at least 3 formulations with varying degrees of zinc, phosphate, and other detergents. Miller’s has 6. Castrol, AFAIK, just has the Classic, based on the GTX we all grew up with.  

All are, to read the hype, the best of both worlds: old style oils that benefit from modern technology additives.

Porsche even sells their own now, but I can’t help but notice the cans are eerily similar to Motul’s.

Politics, Religion and Oil... 3 things I don't debate about with clients or friends. :-)

I have been out of the oil "loop" for a while, but I am glad to hear there are more choices.  I just stick with what the engine builders tell me, that way there is no "you used the wrong oil" when it comes to oil analysis.  That said, I have clients that use all types of oils and none of them have had any oil related problems... other than weeps and leaks, but thats a different story that we all know too well.

Last edited by chines1
@chines1 posted:

that way there is no "you used the wrong oil" when it comes to oil analysis..

As I said in the first oil thread I ever posted in back in 1999: “Clean oil is better than dirty oil, dirty oil is better than no oil.”

In the 22 years hence, I’ve learned I sleep better when my oil meets mfr’s* specs.

* take that abbreviation either way you prefer.

Allegedly a CB Performance (Pat Down's?) 2.0L. I don't know any more than that. As for your second question, I don't really know. It's still pulling strong at 4500rpm. But I generally shift around 4K. I've hit 5K a few times and it still doesn't seem to be running out of breath.

Running out of power isn't the problem. Low oil pressure at idle is. When it's cold, it has almost 70 psi. Warm about 50 @2500 rpm.

Last edited by dlearl476

Well, I think my car guy card needs to be suspended for 30 days.  For the first time since before I had Blackline tune up the Spyder in 2018 my engine sounds like a VW at idle.

Took it for a blast around what I christened Meine Nordschlife today. Honestly had a hard time keeping it under 90 going up the canyon. Pulling strong up the hill at 2,000 rpm, didn’t seem to be running out of air at 5500 when I shifted. (I’ve only revved it that high about 4 times.)

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So embarrassing to think I’ve been running with my valves grossly out of adjustment for 3 years.

On my third trip around the cylinders I found a method that works pretty well. (I could never find a decent method to check for spinage on the pushrods.)

I backed the lock nut off and lightly finger tightened the adjuster just finger tight, then put the screwdriver in to note the orientation to keep it there when I tightened the lock nut.

Once I finished I just just barely detect a bit of play. Probably <.001

This is when you know you have a cool car!
7B1C1378-CBCD-4F09-995F-C78526F06BEE

When a Vette guy stops and asks to take a picture of YOUR car.  

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Last edited by dlearl476
@DannyP posted:

It's amazing what a proper valve adjustment will do.

Always adjust the carbs after a valve adjustment. It will probably run even better.

Once you get it fully warmed up, check the idle and hi-speed synch. Then adjust the idle mixtures. You should be golden.

Idle remained spot on, but I’ll go through them tomorrow.

But, on the subject of warming up…

It was 50° in town today, I suspect ~40° up in the mountains. I never opened my flappers. Temp gauge needle finally got to 12 o’clock high half way up the first long grade and stayed there. Coming down the other side(s) dropped back down to 10:30-11:00. With the flappers closed.

@edsnova posted:

Now that you have it adjusted right you can stop short-shifting it at 4000 RPM. My God.

I ran it up to redline a couple of times today. As before, it doesn’t seem anywhere near running out of breath.

But I also realized, the thing I almost love most about this car is, when it’s running perfectly, putting around town like it’s a 55 Split window.

Besides having long legs, this motor seems to pull really well from 1500 in third gear.

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