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Large step for me... small step for speederowner-kind.

FM Former Member
I've got to crow about this... probably a routine event for most of you, but I adjusted my first set of VW valves this last weekend.

I am mechanically inclined but the pursuits of school, love and work (not necessarily in that order) have kept me out from under my cars for the last 15 years. Had lots of VWs, but all H2O.

I have had the Speedster for ~ 6 weeks now and it was time for the post-break-in oil change and valve adjustment. Looked around for a shop and found a local place that said "we can figure it out" when I asked if they worked on air cooled VWs. The capper is that they wanted to charge me $300(!) to do it.

Not going to happen. (If anyone is interested in where *NOT* to go in Northern Virginia, I can certainly tell you)

Although I had visions of a flatbed towtruck pulling up to take my new prize off to the $300-to-figure-it-out guy, I got the "How to keep your VW alive" book and went to the auto parts store, set aside Sunday morning and went after it.

No problem at all, and the car runs MUCH better than it did before. More power, smoother, better idle. Or at lease it seems so.

Interesting observations:

1) needed to tighten the belt to begin. what in the world is up with that whole shim idea? It works but it's sort of kooky

2) oil filter cover plate has no drain plug. not one, but six bolts and their washers to lose in the murky mess

3) valve cover springy wire thing is a knucklebuster - scratched up a valve cover a little in the process. Open to suggestions on this one

4) valve adjustment - should it really be that simple to adjust one of the most critical systems in the engine? Pop off the cover and there are the innards

So, now armed with a false sense of capability and accomplishment - there's no stopping! Looking for performance mods now to get more out of the 1915cc.
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FM Former Member
I've got to crow about this... probably a routine event for most of you, but I adjusted my first set of VW valves this last weekend.

I am mechanically inclined but the pursuits of school, love and work (not necessarily in that order) have kept me out from under my cars for the last 15 years. Had lots of VWs, but all H2O.

I have had the Speedster for ~ 6 weeks now and it was time for the post-break-in oil change and valve adjustment. Looked around for a shop and found a local place that said "we can figure it out" when I asked if they worked on air cooled VWs. The capper is that they wanted to charge me $300(!) to do it.

Not going to happen. (If anyone is interested in where *NOT* to go in Northern Virginia, I can certainly tell you)

Although I had visions of a flatbed towtruck pulling up to take my new prize off to the $300-to-figure-it-out guy, I got the "How to keep your VW alive" book and went to the auto parts store, set aside Sunday morning and went after it.

No problem at all, and the car runs MUCH better than it did before. More power, smoother, better idle. Or at lease it seems so.

Interesting observations:

1) needed to tighten the belt to begin. what in the world is up with that whole shim idea? It works but it's sort of kooky

2) oil filter cover plate has no drain plug. not one, but six bolts and their washers to lose in the murky mess

3) valve cover springy wire thing is a knucklebuster - scratched up a valve cover a little in the process. Open to suggestions on this one

4) valve adjustment - should it really be that simple to adjust one of the most critical systems in the engine? Pop off the cover and there are the innards

So, now armed with a false sense of capability and accomplishment - there's no stopping! Looking for performance mods now to get more out of the 1915cc.
FM Former Member
Hi Gerry, congrats! I too have a 2004 VS. A couple of suggestions: for the oil sump plate, just replace it with the older style (pre '75 VW) that had the central drain plug. It bolts right on. I spent $2.25 for the plate, drain plug and German gasket set. With repsect to scratching the valve covers when disengaging the bales; that's just the nature of the beast. If you don't want to scratch them, swap them for a set of bolted covers; if I were you I'd just stick with the stock ones; I've read they're better at dissipating heat and seal better too. Enjoy your new car!
Ron ORon O1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada
Bolt style valve covers do not work...they leak. It has to do with the expansion rates of different metals. Go with the stock VW valve covers with bales (German quality) Some people think because they're chromed, aluminum or finned that they're better. Nothing works as good as stock, German valve covers...period.
Ron
Alan MerklinAlan MerklinDrclock - Elkins, West Virginia Supporting Member
Having a blank cover without a drain plug is good incentive to clean the screen while you're there instead of just draining and replacing the oil....Don't forget to replace the gasket and the little "O" rings that go over the drain plate bolts or you will have a leak for sure.
To pop a bale off, use something that is hard plastic or a short hard wood dowel.
Ron ORon O1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada
These screens are reusable, and it takes about 30 seconds to clean one. I had a large coffee tin, half filled with varsol. Dropped in the screen, put the lid on and shook the can for 15 seconds. Screen came out clean as a whistle. I used the same screen for 50,000 miles on my 1970 beetle.
Ron
FM Former Member
gerry,

One area of concern regarding Valve Adjustments; a "Tight" Valve will do more damage then a "Slightly Loose" Valve. The loose Valve will "Usually" make more noise but a Tight Valve can possible damage to the Valve Head. If you "Drop" a Valve this will relate to terminal engine failure. Piston, Cylinder, Head, Etc. and Metal Fragments circulating in your engine/oil system.

As you know, Valve Adjusting is not that difficult and the more you perform the adjustment, the easier it will become. Sometimes you will notice a pattern, some valves will become tighter then other valves.

When you have the Valve Covers "Off", take a good visual of the inside of the Valve Cover and in the corners of the Cylinder Heads.

I usually grab the Rocker Arms and check for "Movement". If one or more feel "Loose", when I perform the adjustment, I'll check the Rocker Arm Locking Ajuster Nut. Just check the Rocker Arm Shaft, Visually inspect the Retainers and Springs. Look for items or areas that "Don't Look Right".

I also personally use "Cork" Valve Cover Gaskets.

Before I remove the Valve Cover, I place a clean rag between the lower edge of the Valve Cover and over the top of the Heater Box. This way when the valve cover is removed, any oil will spill on the rag and not the heater box. Less clean up after the adjustment is performed.

For a Valve Adjustment Wrench, I picked up an "Off Set" VW Valve adjustment Box End Wrench from Snap-On. I've had it for about 35 Years and its really worked well for tightning the lock nut when the adjustment has been set with the feeler gauge and screw driver.

Good Luck,

Jack Blake
FM Former Member
Thanks to everyone. Lots of great feedback. I'll stick with the stock bale setup and buy some seals, gaskets and screens. Good advice. I'm definitely one to cut corners if able to, so I'll try forcing the discipline on myself by avoiding the drain plug for now. (weird self-management logic, huh?)

Valves: Tight=bad, moderately clicky and loose=good. I was concerned as I was setting them that I was not PERFECTLY consistent, but I am sure it's running better than before. must be close enough. I do think they were originally set at ~.004 all the way around. I may not really know how to use the feeler gauge precisely, though.

Ed - yep, 10 miles! Small world. We should plan a Saturday morning coffee or something. I'm going all over and back in the next few weeks, but I'll follow up with you as soon as Summer slows down. Interesting that there's another VS close by - when I'm out driving around here I get the "just saw an alien" look so I figured nobody in this part of the country had ever seen one. ;-) Would love to know where you get service done around here (if you don't do it yourself.

G
FM Former Member
gerry,

Like most things, the more you do a certin activity the easier it becomes.

If you feel uncertain about utilizing a "Feeler Gauge" you may consider a "GO - NO GO" technique. You know what your Intake & Exhaust settings are, so take a slightly "Smaller and Slightly Larger" feeler gauge and recheck your adjustment. If the smaller feeler gauge fits, the valve is "Too Tight" and if the Larger Feeler Gauge fits, the valve is "Too Loose". You will generate the "Feel" once you "Run the Valves" a few times.

I personally do the following when I perform a Oil Change & Valve Adjustment.

Engine Cold for Valve Adjustment!

Place Rag under Valve Covers between Heater Box and lower lip of Valve Cover.

Drain Oil.

Clean and Inspect Oil Screen.

Inspect for suspended ware metals in screen/plate.

Clean replace gaskets, copper washers and reattach oil sump plate assemble.

Remove Valve Covers, Place Engine #1TDC and Start Valve ADjustment.

Complete Valve Adjustment.

Inspect inside of Valve Covers for Ware Metals and corners/lower portion of Cylinder Heads.

Service Valve Covers.

Replace Valve Cover Gaskets and install valve covers.

Start Engine and let idle.

Inspect valve covers for leaks and sump plate for leaks.

This is my method and others have their own.

You will generate your own procedures.

Good Luck,

Jack Blake
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