Skip to main content

Hi gang,

I really am enjoying reading all of your posts and benefiting from your collective knowledge.

Like everyone else here, my dream car has always been a speedster.

Up until recently, it was only a dream until I started learning about the replicas.

I really liked the idea of getting a brand new car that looks like my dream car and costs a LOT less than an original.

I live in Dearborn, MI and made a trip to Chicago this summer and made the detour to visit Special Edition in Bremen, Indiana.

I had the priviledge of meeting Kevin and Carey, seeing their shop, discussing options, and driving a car.

I wasn't really planning on buying until I could finish getting my two sons through college (one will be done in the spring and one is still a sophomore), but you know how it is. I was hooked and I had the fever (and not for more cowbell).

I ordered the car based on advice from Kevin as a winter build (who needs a Speedster in December in Michigan?) which will be delivered in March of next year. It also saved me a couple bucks :)

Since then, I have been researching on the internet and making tweaks as I get more educated. I have plenty of time to tweak things due to the long wait.

Here are the specs:

Silver
Black Interior
Black Top
Porsche Badging
Full Toneau
Bumper risers
Exhaust through the bottom of the rear bumper risers like a '58(a custom mod I dreamed up from research which I think will make my car pretty unique)
No side molding
Heat
Electric rotary fuel pump with switch under dash to prime pump after sitting
Nardi steering wheel
Mainley crested mahogany shift knob (custom threaded for my Beck instead of stock set screw)
Underhood halatron fire suppression system with trigger near engine cover release on B-Pillar
1915 cc engine with 34mm Webers (90 hp)
3.88 Ring and Pinion upgrade
Electronic ignition (was standard)
Thinline extended sump
No sound system
12v accessory plug
Windshield washers (to pass MI inspection)
MPG Speedo conversion
Interior door pull handles
Grab handle
Meistershaften badge
Some orignal Porsche crest badges that I got from eBay that I intend to sew over the Beck logo on the mats
An ADAC grill badge that I ordered online. (I used to live in Cologne, Germany, have a German wife, and wanted to add even a little more touch of Germnay)

As of today, I'm not much of a mechanic. Kevin steered me away from the 125 hp 1915 due to the issues with keeping the Webers tuned.

I'm not really into working on it, but now realize that that will be part of the fun (adjusting valves, etc.), so now I'm wondering if adjusting the webers would be such a big deal.

I owned a Sebring convertible in the past, and learned that my enjoyment came from driving around town with the top down. I also learned that the radio was useless at highway speeds and with the top top down was embarassing when I pulled up at a stop light. Also, I just want to listen to the engine. Therefore, I decided on no stereo.

I probably won't drive it over 45 mph very often and mainly enjoy it driving around town for pleasure, on errands on the weekend, and to and from work on nice days.

I work in the auto industry and have driven my share of fast cars and found them to be agravating because you can't drive them legally the way they were meant to be driven. I also lived in Germany for a couple of years and got my fill of driving fast on the autobahn.

I want the car to accelerate well, knowing that top speed will be generally be about 45 m.p.h.

So, with all that being said. Any advice, particularly on the engine choice? I don't want to go too small.

I gotta stop the spec madness before I drive Carey over the edge! (he's been absolutely super, btw).

Tom Blankinship

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Hi gang,

I really am enjoying reading all of your posts and benefiting from your collective knowledge.

Like everyone else here, my dream car has always been a speedster.

Up until recently, it was only a dream until I started learning about the replicas.

I really liked the idea of getting a brand new car that looks like my dream car and costs a LOT less than an original.

I live in Dearborn, MI and made a trip to Chicago this summer and made the detour to visit Special Edition in Bremen, Indiana.

I had the priviledge of meeting Kevin and Carey, seeing their shop, discussing options, and driving a car.

I wasn't really planning on buying until I could finish getting my two sons through college (one will be done in the spring and one is still a sophomore), but you know how it is. I was hooked and I had the fever (and not for more cowbell).

I ordered the car based on advice from Kevin as a winter build (who needs a Speedster in December in Michigan?) which will be delivered in March of next year. It also saved me a couple bucks :)

Since then, I have been researching on the internet and making tweaks as I get more educated. I have plenty of time to tweak things due to the long wait.

Here are the specs:

Silver
Black Interior
Black Top
Porsche Badging
Full Toneau
Bumper risers
Exhaust through the bottom of the rear bumper risers like a '58(a custom mod I dreamed up from research which I think will make my car pretty unique)
No side molding
Heat
Electric rotary fuel pump with switch under dash to prime pump after sitting
Nardi steering wheel
Mainley crested mahogany shift knob (custom threaded for my Beck instead of stock set screw)
Underhood halatron fire suppression system with trigger near engine cover release on B-Pillar
1915 cc engine with 34mm Webers (90 hp)
3.88 Ring and Pinion upgrade
Electronic ignition (was standard)
Thinline extended sump
No sound system
12v accessory plug
Windshield washers (to pass MI inspection)
MPG Speedo conversion
Interior door pull handles
Grab handle
Meistershaften badge
Some orignal Porsche crest badges that I got from eBay that I intend to sew over the Beck logo on the mats
An ADAC grill badge that I ordered online. (I used to live in Cologne, Germany, have a German wife, and wanted to add even a little more touch of Germnay)

As of today, I'm not much of a mechanic. Kevin steered me away from the 125 hp 1915 due to the issues with keeping the Webers tuned.

I'm not really into working on it, but now realize that that will be part of the fun (adjusting valves, etc.), so now I'm wondering if adjusting the webers would be such a big deal.

I owned a Sebring convertible in the past, and learned that my enjoyment came from driving around town with the top down. I also learned that the radio was useless at highway speeds and with the top top down was embarassing when I pulled up at a stop light. Also, I just want to listen to the engine. Therefore, I decided on no stereo.

I probably won't drive it over 45 mph very often and mainly enjoy it driving around town for pleasure, on errands on the weekend, and to and from work on nice days.

I work in the auto industry and have driven my share of fast cars and found them to be agravating because you can't drive them legally the way they were meant to be driven. I also lived in Germany for a couple of years and got my fill of driving fast on the autobahn.

I want the car to accelerate well, knowing that top speed will be generally be about 45 m.p.h.

So, with all that being said. Any advice, particularly on the engine choice? I don't want to go too small.

I gotta stop the spec madness before I drive Carey over the edge! (he's been absolutely super, btw).
I'd actually recommend dual webers (40mm's should be the ones for your size engine). there is twice as much carb there compared to the kads. get them jetted correctly and you'll make a lot more power.

you didnt specify an exhaust other than where it exits. don't chince on an empi unit. get a quality exhaust.

I didnt wire up a sound system in my ride. i use an ipod wired to a suitcase :) the suitcase has a sealed speaker box with dual 6x9 2 ways and a motor bike amp with crossover. works flawlessly and pumps out the sounds without having to drill any holes. two wire setup too. switched power and ground.



hi tom,it does not matter if it is a beck a intermeccanica or any other name of the great replicamakers or in my case a jps,i dont know how old you are,maybe over 50 ,close your eyes when you get in the car turn the key and you are 20 years old put the gear and step on it ,you are now driving a porsche,always remember,a porsche.those losers who think they know alot,and want you to admit if it is a replica,just forget them,you are the man,at least this is what my wife always says,enjoy as much as you can ,because you will start to feel life is getting shorter by the minute,trust me,you will be thinking you never want to get out of the car again.just drive your "porsche",another nut herbert hofer in florida.
Tom, unless they have made Stafast the standard material for top and tonneau, pay for the upgrade. Where you live you probably want heater boxes. Carey will add a blower. Get tunes. I rarely drive mine with the stereo off. The interior door pulls look nice, but I have never driven with the side curtains in so I have never needed the door pulls.
Thanks so much for the feedback so far. I happen to be in Japan on a business trip and this makes me feel not so far away.

I'm torn on the stereo, but I'm going to not get it at first. I can always add it later. It would give me an excuse to make the drive back to Bremen.

I felt the same way about the side molding. I'm pretty sure that I don't want it and it's cheaper to get it without and much easier to add later than delete.

I'll check with Carey on the Stafast top and toneau. Chances are he will read this post and answer himself :)

I'm mostly concenred about things that would be difficult to change later.

I did add heat to the build. Although I don't ever intend to drive it in bad weather, I do intend to take it out on fall and spring days and even run it on nice days in the winter so that it doesn't sit for so long.

I didn't think I would spec in the door pulls, but when I test drove a car with them, I found out that I liked them.

I think my main concern is about power and acceleration (not so much top speed).
You need to talk to lane anderson about the big webers he has the setup in question in his Beck.
The 90 HP maybe adequate for your driving style. I started with a mild 1915cc about 75hp and it was not enough low end torque for my needs.
Mind you my wide body Vintage weighs 250lbs more than a Beck. I opted for a fire breathing 140plus HP 2275cc. It does not sound like a VW under loan and
Under acceleration. The idle jet circuits in the big webers are a major
Pain in the ass. Read the post Joe Soltis wrote under engines, we spent the whole
Day tuning. Get a high quality exhaust system too. Good luck

Marty
Troy,

You hit the nail on the head on your profile:

"Could use a bigger engine, but the 1915 is adequate"

Since you have the 1915 cc engine, that's what I'm afraid I will feel as well.

I love everything about this car, even the leaky top. I really want a car to only be driven on nice days for the pleasure of driving. I don't even want to be tempted to drive it in the rain or snow.

It will always be my 3rd car (unless the wife and I someday go down to one daily driver) solely for that purpose.

I know the 45 mph comment sounds crazy for a sports car, but I think I have a realistic attitude about my everyday driving experience. When it's a beautiful Saturday morning and I decide to drive my Speedster to Home Depot, I won't even get over 30!

So why am I stressing about the engine? In addition to looking cool I want it to feel like a sports car. Maybe it's stupid, but I want to know that I can step on the gas and be pushed back into the seat when I want it. For me that's about torque and acceleration, not top end speed or ability to take corners fast (which I fully aniticpate that I will be able to do with the Speedster)

I'm just looking for a reasonable combination of performance and reliability while staying fairly true to the original design. I want to stick with a rear, air-cooled, type I engine, but soop it up enough so that I'm not disappointed, but not turn it into a hot rod that requires me to spend a couple of hours on it every Saturday before I can take it for a ride. That will kill all of the fun.

Maybe the 1915 cc engine with the 34mm webers IS that engine. Without already owning it and driving it, I just don't know.

I DO know that there are a lot of you on this board with more hp and that has me concerned.

Since upgrading the hp might mean more than just changing the carbs (tranny, etc), I really want to know now. This seems like the biggest fork in the road decision after picking the color. I know that I can always change the powertrain later, but that would be a lot more expensive in the long run.
Just gave myself a little more education from this article:

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/carb101selection.htm

A quote in there sure sounds like what Mango is saying:

"Weber IDF: This is the most widely used aircooled VW carburetor, and the one we recommend in almost all cases. The IDF's come in 40, 44, and 48mm sizes, and are excellent carbs for street cars. These are also the carb of choice for off road vehicles due to an excellent progression circuit and superior fuel control! These will not flood like the DCNF. The IDF's have many advantages over the other carb sets available:

they will run on a wide range of engines (from stockers to full race engines)
they fit nicely in the engine compartment
they are easy to fit air filter assemblies onto
they have a modern float design which prevents flooding
they have 4 progression holes for smooth driveability under light throttle conditions
parts availability is excellent because they are still being made
they have a vacuum advance port (see SVDA and Unilite"
My CB 1915 always ran rough when cold but seemed to be OK once warmed up. I had a VW pro work on the motor a while back. He re-jetted the carbs (smaller jets) and, wow, what a difference. Starts more easily, idles great right away. Carey said Pat overjets his motors to assure ample cooling thru the break-in period. I wish he had advised of that when I ordered the motor. Anyways, my Weberized 1915 has run better this season than any time since I've had the car.
Tom-

Deep breaths man.

I've had 3 different speedsters, with 4 engines ranging from 1776 with dual ICTs to a 2332 with dual 48 Dellortos. Nobody likes to hear from an old crank who's "been there, done that", but the engines I've had run the range from probably 60 hp to my current engine with a verified 201 hp at the crank.

My first car had a total mish/mash of an engine- stock crank, stock heads, Dual 40 IDFs. It was a mess- the jets in the carbs plugged weekly. I was perfectly happy with the 1776 that came in my second car- stock crank, stock heads, nothing but a 110 cam and a set of pistons and cylinders. But.... as I went on, I began to crave the kind of crushing, V8 style torque I knew would be difficult to achieve in a flat 4. I'm no drag racer, but I'm a torque junkie- some is good, more is better, and too much is just about enough. I did a nicer 2110 for the IM in 2005, and had a King-Kong 2332 built for the car last year. I figure I've got north of $10K in this drive-train (don't tell my wife), which could be the new definition of insanity. I have the engine hanging from 911 engine mounts, and I've got a 2-1/2" exhaust with an electric bypass cut-out- it's just plain nuts. My next engine will be a 3L. I'm a sick man.

If what you think you want is an engine that will push you back in the seat, and motor around to Home Depot at 30 mph- the 1914 with ICTs will be more than fine. It'll feel "zippy", and will push you back when you jump on it. Stock gearing with the 3.88 R/P will work great with this mill. If this is really all you want, more would just be for braggin'.

Where you'll notice this engine running out of steam will be on the freeway, when you are going 65 and you want to go 85. You'll think the engine sounds like a buzz-saw, and that you need another gear- one that isn't there. More engine isn't going to solve that without a change in the transaxle.

There are 1914 owners out there that make a whole lot more power than what I'm talking about, but they are guys spending way north of $5K for their engines. The ICTs will limit you to less than 100 hp, but they are the closest thing to the kind of trouble free driving we've all grown used to in this EFI world. More power means IDFs or Dellortos, and there is no difference between 40s 44s, or 48s when it comes to idle jets. I tried to work my way around dual throat carbs with heavily modified 46mm Kadrons- it was a waste of $800.

Perhaps what you really want is a nice injected 1914 with a Berg 5 speed. Get out your check-book if that's the case.

My advice? Buy the base engine, and upgrade when you know a whole lot more about what you really want. Terry Nuckles is right- a single carb 1600 would be fine for what you say you are after.

FWIW, I agree with you on the tunes. I had stereos in the first two, and nothing in this one. If you want music, but an i-pod and a splitter for the ear buds.
Stan,

Thank you for a very thoughtful response based on experience.

Of course, your advice is the same that both Kevin and Carey Hines gave me and I know in my heart that I should trust them implicitly.

It's good to hear from another person who has been there, done that, though.

Based on your response, I think that I'll stick with the plan and stay with the 1915cc with the 34 ICT's and then upgrade later, if I need to. I know that I'll probably always find some reason to screw with it.

You really helped and I feel much better. Being 13 hours from my own time zone with jet lag and too much time on my hands, and only Japanese TV and the internet to keep me company is a recipe for disaster :)

Thanks,

Tom

P.S. We have very similar taste in cars. Yours is beautiful!
Tom,

Terry and Stan are both friends of mine. Their sickness is mine as well along with most of this group. When it comes down to the final motor decision in IMHO it comes down to two things.

First your driving habits and the roads you will be traveling most of the time.

Second your wallet.

Like Stan said he has north of 10K in his motor and transmission combo. Super giant killer specs from a 4 cylinder VW based engine. I will have that much in the 3.0L 911 engine and 915 in my IM-6 if not more. With the IM-6 it is as much to do about the WOW factor as anything. I can get more HP/Torque easier with the two extra cylinders but at a much greater expense on the front end. The trade off is I'm hoping for something in the future will be road ready at a moments notice 24/7, 365 for many years. In Sacramento I can get away with it because while it might get all the way down to the 30's it never (almost never) snows. As long as it's dry I can be motoring.

Stan on the other hand needs something to keep him occupied in the winter. ;)

Radio? There was a reason Porsche did not have a place for a radio in the Speedsters to begin with. Cabriolets had radios. Speedsters and Roadsters nope.....the motor is such a sweet symphony.

Guys,

I wanted to acknowledge a few more of your posts:

Alan, you can forget me adding any spyder parts to my bill...it's getting higher every day.

Mango, good question about exhaust. I'm following up on that with Carey.

Rich, thanks for the Stafast tip. I'm following up on Carey with that too.

Herbert, thanks for the inspiration, but you're killing me man. This is the longest that I've waited for anything in my life AND it's my dream car! I'm happy that it's starting to turn cold here in Michigan and it doesn't hurt so much. I'll be thinking of you this summer when I'm driving with my top down and it's 100+ in Florida :)

Bill and Dave, thanks for tip on Dell'oro carbs. I will consider them for the future.

Bill & Stan, I like the idea of fuel injection and the 5-speed, but I think your advice is wise for me to wait.

Stan & Dave, thanks for the validation on radio choice. If I hadn't already had the experience of a radio in a convertible I would have probably spec'd in a killer stereo with a jack for my iPhone. My hobby is playing guitar in a classic rock band www.shoppingcartjoyride.com (I'm the old dude in the derby) so I'm all about the tunes. However, when I want to hear tunes, I want to hear tunes not engine, road, wind, and other environmental sounds! My daily driver is a hybrid and is the perfect car to crank up the jams in. The tune I want to hear in my Speedster is the engine. I imagine that it will drown out most of the other factors.

In general, thanks to eveyrone for the tips. I really appreciate them and if you have more, please don't hesitate to add them. I know that I keep the communication flooding in to Carey...but my bill keeps going up too, so he probably doesn't mind too much :)

Ok, Tom, I'm back online. I see what you meant in your email :-)

First off, you WILL spend more time above 45 MPH then you think. Heck, that's barely enough for 4th gear. Regarding Webers, I can't say that keeping them tuned is an issue, but keeping the jets clean is. I have heard that "jet doctors" make the problem pretty much go away. In that case, I urge you to get the upgraded 1915 in the beginning. Better to have more power than you need than spend the coin on a new engine after a year or so - ask Marty.

Fuel injection is a great idea, but unless you are willing to do a lot of work yourself (Megasquirt) EFI is costly - over $2k for the CB Performance system and all ancillaries. I DO recommend the Pertronix billet Flamethrower II distributor and coil. It makes a significant difference in smoothness and adds some power as well. I also recommend the A1 Sidewinder exhaust. Many folks on this forum will attest to it's sound and the additional power. With the exhaust and new ignition, I feel like I've added at least 10hp to my car. If you upgrade the engine, get the external cooler with fan and external filter.

I had never heard of the Stayfast upgrade, but I wish I had. After two treatments with Scotchguard my top still soaked through this weekend. If I could do it over I would get the upgrade. Heck, I might still do it. I DID find out from the upholsterer for SAS what I should use to seal the top. I will update when I've done it.

Let's see - Carey recommends going with the standard rear drums, but I have never been able to adjust mine properly. Gordon Nichols can, though, so I know it's me. I plan to upgrade to discs.

I was the first here to use the CSP shifter, but several others have followed suit. I strongly recommend it. I know Carey has installed a few and is familiar with them.

Definitely get the camber compensator. I think it should be standard.

Expect to question the design of the side curtains. I replaced mine with some homemade jobs with airplane vents. The provide much better sealing and visibility and allow for plenty of ventilation. Pictures are in my gallery.

If I think of anything more, I'll add it here.

Welcome to the Madness!!
Part of the issue with IDFs is the linkage that has always been an achilles heel to keep adjusted.

With a new development (accu-link) that I have cooked up that'll be used on ALL the IDF equipped engines that I provide to Beck that issue should become non-existant.

I have a test set headed to Carey in a few days.

My least favorite carb is the 34 ICT
I have a few sets of the accu-link headed this way and will be making the necessary changes to make it work in both the speedster and spyder.
It will be tested on our demo cars over the coming months and I am happy to report back on it.

FYI, I have not posted on this thread but have TONS of e-mails back and forth with Tom re: this thread. Tom can share this info if he likes. and I will be happy to post once Tom and I iron out all the details.
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×