Jim, sounds good, I'll see if I can find something on my end. Eddie
Ed B....Would seem to me that if one were to reverse the top bows - putting the dog leg to the front - it would sorta evolve into a high bow unit. 'course you'd probably need a new top. I'd bet the rag wouldn't fit the rack anymore.
As an extreme measure, you can also separate the front bow from the vinyl and reglue it with an additional 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Maybe clean up the old line with the cheap $1 hand cleaner. The kind with lanoline and no pumic in it. The handcleaner has a nice degreaser to clean and the lanoline acts as a conditioner for the vinyl.
On one speedster I built, I had to move the metal bows as a unit at the body pivot point forward 2-1/4 and 1-1/4 up from the original "factory installed" threaded pivot to get a nice tight top fit. I just drilled out the body and placed a piece of fuel line tubing throught the body to act as a bushing and installed a 5/16 bolt with a fender washer on the backside of the body with a nyloc nut.
You can unbolt this pivot point from inside the car with all snappes attached and move the metal bows as mentioned to see if it will work in your application.
You can unbolt this pivot point from inside the car with all snappes attached and move the metal bows as mentioned to see if it will work in your application.
Bruce email me a few pics of your speedster top ...may be able to help you out
Alan
Alan
Does anyone have bows for a CMC for sale? I have a 1988 CMC and one of my bows is slightly bent, affected the shape of the top. Thanks!
IM advises to put up the top for storage in the garage, especially in cold weather, then drop it to drive on nice days. This tends to keep the fit and make it easier to put the top up.
IM advises to put up the top for storage in the garage, especially in cold weather, then drop it to drive on nice days. This tends to keep the fit and make it easier to put the top up.
Here's what I do:
Hook the windshield latches in place without latching them. Snap the fasteners into place all the way around except for the two rear of the jamb. Now close the latches at the windshield and finish off the jamb snaps. Works for me! Good luck!
Hook the windshield latches in place without latching them. Snap the fasteners into place all the way around except for the two rear of the jamb. Now close the latches at the windshield and finish off the jamb snaps. Works for me! Good luck!
Attention Stan Galat:
I printed and have been saving your write-up on getting your convertible top to seel better, and have been trying to do everything as you did it as I install my new VS top on a CMC. I've found that the metal bows are a slightly different shape on the CMC and must be cut off 3/4" each side in the front, and 1 1/2" each side at the rear bow to fit the VS top material. They also seem to have a gentler bend at the radii, but I'm living with it.... 8>(
I've also done the windshield-frame-to-side-curtain the same as Ola Miltrop (see his photos - also using the same mounting stud), and that looks to be working well. Tomorrow, my wife tells me that if I can get the material off, she can sew the new stitch along the top-to-flap junction, as well as modify the flap at the rear of the door, and that should tighten things up well enough to get it trailered to the South for the Winter, and then some.
Thanks for your great write-up! I'm sure it should save me a lot of grief later on.
Gordon
Skun knuckles and all, but still one of the "Speedstah Guys" from Rhode Island
I printed and have been saving your write-up on getting your convertible top to seel better, and have been trying to do everything as you did it as I install my new VS top on a CMC. I've found that the metal bows are a slightly different shape on the CMC and must be cut off 3/4" each side in the front, and 1 1/2" each side at the rear bow to fit the VS top material. They also seem to have a gentler bend at the radii, but I'm living with it.... 8>(
I've also done the windshield-frame-to-side-curtain the same as Ola Miltrop (see his photos - also using the same mounting stud), and that looks to be working well. Tomorrow, my wife tells me that if I can get the material off, she can sew the new stitch along the top-to-flap junction, as well as modify the flap at the rear of the door, and that should tighten things up well enough to get it trailered to the South for the Winter, and then some.
Thanks for your great write-up! I'm sure it should save me a lot of grief later on.
Gordon
Skun knuckles and all, but still one of the "Speedstah Guys" from Rhode Island
Glad it's working out, Gordon. I didn't know when I posted (what was it- a year ago?) if the description was clear enough to make any sense. I never did post the pictures I wanted to, but will at some point (really). Once you modify the flap above your shoulder at the rear of the window, you'll really notice an improvement. That REALLY made a big difference on my top.
I'd love to see your side curtains. I made a set of hard ones for my hardtop, using a seal on the windshield frame, although I could also have used one like Ola's on the window- I just wanted to have a conventional looking window when I opened the door, so I pull off the seal in the spring, and stick a new one on in the fall. Ola was my inspiration on the side curtains also. The hard side curtains don't need to be bent to seal good, if you have the right angle (as I'm sure you are finding), but seem to be VERY sensative to where the bottom (door) edge ends up.
My problem was, I spent about two full days when I should have been working to make all this stuff. That coupled with a $75 bill from the upholstery shop for the stiching (my marks), and $125 in polycarbonite (I cut and polished), and there was nothing cheap about the whole project. I trust yours went better. Have a good trip on the move south. I wish I was going somewhere warm too!
I'd love to see your side curtains. I made a set of hard ones for my hardtop, using a seal on the windshield frame, although I could also have used one like Ola's on the window- I just wanted to have a conventional looking window when I opened the door, so I pull off the seal in the spring, and stick a new one on in the fall. Ola was my inspiration on the side curtains also. The hard side curtains don't need to be bent to seal good, if you have the right angle (as I'm sure you are finding), but seem to be VERY sensative to where the bottom (door) edge ends up.
My problem was, I spent about two full days when I should have been working to make all this stuff. That coupled with a $75 bill from the upholstery shop for the stiching (my marks), and $125 in polycarbonite (I cut and polished), and there was nothing cheap about the whole project. I trust yours went better. Have a good trip on the move south. I wish I was going somewhere warm too!
Yeah, Stan, I'm struggling with the rubber gaskets right now - been working on the window shape and the mounting pegs ALL AFTERNOON and I don't usually take long doing things like this. Finally made a template out of an old piece of paneling and sacrificed THAT instead of the plexiglass - smart for once.
I REALLY don't like putting the window up into that pocket between the top and the flap, since it looks (a.) klugey and (b.) you have to fool around with the top material to get the door closed, but it'll be good enough to get it there, and then I can mess with it when I have a bit more time.
Thanks, again!
gn
I REALLY don't like putting the window up into that pocket between the top and the flap, since it looks (a.) klugey and (b.) you have to fool around with the top material to get the door closed, but it'll be good enough to get it there, and then I can mess with it when I have a bit more time.
Thanks, again!
gn