Leaking Carburetor

Just a little crud in the needle and seat.  If you can take the carb apart, do so and then carefully remove the float and look at the needle.  you should see something on the tip, if not check in the seat there is something in there not allowing the seat to stop the fuel flow when the float chamber is full and the carb is overflowing. 

To Fpcopo - Thanks.

If your carb has a brass float, shake it and feel for any sign of a "slosh"....  This would indicate a failed joint which allows fuel into the float, causing the float to gain weight and therefore not respond properly....   This is not likely as most of todays floats are plastic, but every once in a while these will fail also....    Just a thought....

I got help.  The float is Bakelite, it did fill with fuel, and thus, was stuck in open.  Thanks for the replies.

Damned scarey!  I had exactly the same problem back when I had my 1915 in my Speedster---actually it was on part of the "Tail OIf The Dragon" event way up in the Smokies.

We stopped at a scenic spot and when I walked behind the car I smelled gas.  I opened the trunk and saw gas leaking from the left carb. I was lucky my son Russ was there.  He diagnosed it as having some crud in the carb and had me remove the top of the carb to reveal the intake and had me race the engine to 4,000 RPMs then he slammed his open hand down on the top of the carb and voila the crud was sucked through and the leak stopped on the spot.  He said that was an old VW mechanics trick and was easier than taking the carb apart.  I always did like having Russ along for Speedster trips!

This is a good fix to remember!

Paul....   Thanks for the repair data.....   It never hurts to pass on the fixes....  

Its good idea to add a fuel filter up front under the gas tank along with a cheap siple on-off gas line cut off valve (doubles as anti theft device).  VW seem to hate to be parked on inclines and that exacerbates the float issue.  Be sure to drain you gas contaminated oil, refill with cheap oil, and drain and refill again. 

I was going to search the archives but since this thread is out here, thoughts on aluminum fuel line vs. stainless? Making an order from Jegs and I see a nice coil of aluminum. Was going to go stainless but...

You can use American steel brake/fuel line. It is available in 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" I.D. at your FLAPS(friendly local auto parts store) in lots of lengths, even pre-flared with male pipe-thread fittings on either end. Cheap and durable too, aluminum can crack and rubs through much quicker. I'd use steel, no need to go stainless. Whatever you do support it at either end in rubber or silicone, and in the middle too, just like your metal brake line.