Leaking Carburetor

It looks like the top cover gasket is weeping, firstly I would just try snugging up the cover screws and you just might stop the leak, if not get an illustrated parts breakdown image of the carb so you know how things are sorted under the cover.

 

If you have enough room in that area you might get away with just removing the top cover and replacing the gasket or just remove the whole carb assembly and bring it to the bench to work on. The gasket may not be available alone and you may have to buy a rebuild kit with the gasket in it.

 

Just remember that when you take the air cleaner off of the carb there will be access to the internals of the engine and anything that falls into this opening has the potential of disappearing into the engine if the accelerator linkage gets moved and the butterfly/throttle opens. Also, if you lay a large rag around the base of the carb it will catch anything that drops and keep it from disappearing into the engine tin.

 

So, get an idea of how its put together before you start and don't pull too hard,bend or mutilate when you work on the carb and you'll be fine.

 

 

As Mike said, start by tightening the top cover screws, but don't go nuts, as it is a light casting and you can bend or break the thing. Gene Berg lists gasket kits (GB 547A) for the kadrons and may even have just the top bowl gaskets available; ask. Kaddie Shack specializes in kadrons, so check there as well. If you find just the gaskets, buy more than 1 or 2 sets! The rest of what Mike said about being careful of dropping things applies as well. If nobody has them, let me know, as I may have some stashed away. Al

If you do replace a gasket, some chapstick smeared on both sides helps to seal and prevent it from sticking/tearing in the future.

 

Here's a diagram for you - click to embiggen:

Thanks for the replies!!

 

I will tightening everything up this afternoon and see if that solves the problem.. fingers crossed!!

 

If not, its on to Plan B..

 

Out of curiosity, how often should a carburetor be rebuilt? My car was built in '05 but It only has 1000 miles on it.

 

Thanks again!

It depends - The alcohol in current gasoline can eat out gaskets pretty readily so that might result in more frequent rebuilds, unless you've religiously been running alcohol fighting additives.  Or you may go more than 20,000 miles and 15 years before you'll need it.  Ya never know until it starts running crummy.

If you are going to buy gaskets ( air filter, base, and carb) try these guys--- 

 

https://www.doghouserepair.com...gaskets-top-gaskets/

 

Their gaskets are 3-4$ per pair,  vs the redline/ weber spain manufactured gaskets for -3-5$ each gasket I found locally.

 

 I have tried both brands, and not noticed a significant difference.... I'm sure there may be a difference... But since I like to replace the gasket every time I tinker with the carbs ( once a year), I recently stocked up on the doghouse gaskets.

 

good luck!

Greg -

 

FWIW, my previous VS was a '95 with those same Kadrons/Solex carbs (on an 1835cc engine). Owned and daily driver for 15 years, logged 100,000 trouble-free miles (159,000Km on odometer) without ever having to fuss or rebuild those carbs. Your mileage may vary. 

My rule is: If the engine is running fine, don't look at the carburetors.  They can smell fear.

driving the car only 100 miles a year is part of the problem, methinks....

 

I bought the car two months ago with approx. 500 miles on it,

I've put 500 on it since then... 

Me thinks you nailed it, Ted!

I read a small amount of the SeaFoam gas additive helps the carb gum build up for cars not driven at least once a week. The amount is somewhat tricky.

i removed the air cleaner, lightly tighten up the screws (which didn't feel loose) and cleaned off the dirt. It doesn't appear to be seeping at all. I'm wondering if it only happens when the engine is hot.

 

i also read somewhere that if you lift the front of the car it can cause the carbs to fill with gas when the tank is higher than the carbs. I recently had the front end up several times while I was doing the wide 5 conversion?? Could this have caused the issue? 

 

 

Greg, the accumulation of dirt where the sleep is occurring makes me think this has been happening for a while.
Will

Both the fuel pump and the needle valves in the carbs should prevent the carbs from filling up with gas (otherwise you could never park on a hill). Clean it up, order some gaskets top bowl gaskets so you can replace them one afternoon or evening when you're feeling industrious (get more than 1 pair and maybe even get a pair of rebuild kits so the postage is worth it) and see how long it takes for it to get dirty again. That way you're ready should you need them. If you're thinking the engine might be running rich it would be smart to buy smaller jets at the same time. 

 

Did you check with GBE and/or Kaddie Shack about just buying the top bowl gaskets? They used to be available from Berg's and I once bought 3 or 4 pairs of them. Al 

"My rule is: If the engine is running fine, don't look at the carburetors.  They can smell fear."

 

Too true.

 

And if you positively HAVE to mess with them, then find a brass-looking thingie that might be part of a carburetor and fling it across the room to lose it before you begin working on them.  It's best to get that part of the rebuild over and done with so you can deal with real issues.....

^ BWAAAA HAAAAAAA! So true!

 

If the car is running fine, and the only issue is that small amount of dirt/grime on the carb, just drive the dang car! That dirt could just be the usual road grime that swirls around in the engine compartment and collects in that section of the carb.

 

Drive-Time vs Angst-In-The-Garage-Time. In my world, Drive Time wins every time! 

I drove it in to work this morning and don't see any evidence of leaking. One thing I have always noticed about the car is that I do smell slight fuel odor when I drive it or  when parked in the garage for that matter... I just assumed it was normal with these cars given that they use a carbureted air-cooled engine. I have never noticed any leaking or build up anywhere other than they area under the air cleaner. 

 

I guess my only real concern is safety. 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Al, 

 

I will be placing an order soon whether I currently need them or not.  

 

I do have a couple questions, is there a way to determine if its running too rich? It seems to run fine but I do notice the smell of fuel when I drive it. As I mentioned in my previous post I just assumed this is normal. 

 

Also regarding the jets, How do I determine what size I need? 

 

Thanks again, 

Greg

Carbs, my old IM always had some essence or dyno cologne, no carbs now I miss that perfume     I'm with Jim, I'm going for a drive.. Ray 

Greg-

 Your car is a Vintage Speedster, 1915cc's, with I'm guessing stock heads (as opposed to some higher flowing ported, big valve heads) and mild cam. Have you figured out what you're getting for mileage? Should be mid 20's. Is the exhaust pipe really black? Does the exhaust smell like unburned gas? Does it seem to run just a little better as it's warming up (after the initial couple of minutes of start up) than when it's fully up to operating temps? Do you know what it's timed at- I ask that because an overly rich mixture will run best at 31-32' fully advanced, whereas an engine with a closer to perfect air/fuel ratio may run better at 28-29' full advance.

 

With any of these symptoms I would guess it may be running a little rich. Hope this helps. Al

 

PS- I would start with 1 size smaller idle jet, re-adjust carbs, and see how it runs.

The after running gas smell is not only typical, but unavoidable, as the float chamber in these carbs (well, Webers for sure) is open to the air through the top of the carb, so when things are warm, some gas fumes, eau de petrol, will be in the air.  No biggie.

 

It comes in Diesel, too.....for more discriminating motorheads.

Hello Greg:

 

I have the same carbs (Kadrons).  When driving the car or after turning the engine off you shouldn't smell gas coming from the engine compartment.

 

I would be courious to have you start the engine with the air cleaners off, let the engine run a  a bit, and the turn the engine off and look down the throat of each carb with a flashlight to see if you can spot any fuel dripping down the throat.  If so, this may be a symtom of too much fuel pressure coming from your pump.  I don't know if you have any type of a fuel preesure regulator installed, and/or whether you are running an electrical or manual fuel pump.

 

However, I do know that the Kadron carbs like about 1-1/2 psi of fuel pressure.  On my car if I even bump the pressure up 1/4 psi from this I will get fuel leaking into the throat of one of my carbs.  I suspect that over time (500 miles of driving) that if there was some over pressure in the float bowl that this could cause fuel to seep through the gaskets like what you are seeing.

 

Just my observation and thoughts.

 

Thanks, Grant

Like the posts prior first start at the screws.

most likely because it sat so long the gaskets Probably dried up and now seep when contact with the fuel. 

Kadrons/Solex carbs do not like more than 2 psi of fuel pressure. That can be the problem of the gaskets seeping. 

You should be able to remove the top cover on the carbs without removing the whole carb. I done this to do a jet change.

 

Greg, does the fuel smell seem stronger just after you've topped up the tank, and particularly after making a sharp left-hand turn?

 

You may have a fuel leak at the tank breather hose - the small hose that's connected to the filler tube, runs through a hole in the bottom of the trunk, and drains into the front passenger wheel well.

 

Look for signs of gas dripping from the tube in the wheel well.

 

If you do, there are countless remedies for fixing this, some of which are rumored to actually work.

 

 

 

 

What Anthony said, 2 psi or more will make them leak. Try to get them down at 1.5 or maximum of 1.75. If you have a mechanical pump buy a stack of ten gaskets and shim the pump as needed. My buddy's sandrail needed 7 or 8 to get it right.