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Those of you who weld are probably aware of this phenomenon, but I'm still a novice at this stuff and thought I should throw this out there as a beacon of warning to others.
Jim has been welding all of the structurally important parts of the Hoopty as we run across metal junctures, and mostly only welding up between the top half and the top two thirds. Some parts of the car are only tacked, based on potential need to change math and dimensions later on.
That practice has saved us twice already; once with the steering box and fuel cell reorganization and the need for the battery box to be relocated; second, the firewall-engine compartment framework didn't clear the carbs and had to be busted and re-worked.
Not a big deal, as far as we knew, to do the whole car that way until we knew we had everything where we wanted it. Heavy structural stuff, the tubing for the hoops, chassis and door bars are generally welded full round if we can get to all the surfaces. Stuff that's close to the ground or that's just too hard to get under was going to wait until the end of the project, right before sand-blasting and powdercoating. We were planning on rotating the chassis axially and using .030 wire to finish-weld everything that was tacked.
By doing that, we have created an Achilles' Heel. It got us when we trailered the car to the show yesterday. By strapping the car down with rods in place of the rear shocks, we created needless stress on the torsion tube -- which had only been hemispherically welded. The passenger's side broke loose, and now we're going to be another day behind schedule while we grind and rotate it back to the ideal position for a full weld.

(Continued ...)

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Those of you who weld are probably aware of this phenomenon, but I'm still a novice at this stuff and thought I should throw this out there as a beacon of warning to others.
Jim has been welding all of the structurally important parts of the Hoopty as we run across metal junctures, and mostly only welding up between the top half and the top two thirds. Some parts of the car are only tacked, based on potential need to change math and dimensions later on.
That practice has saved us twice already; once with the steering box and fuel cell reorganization and the need for the battery box to be relocated; second, the firewall-engine compartment framework didn't clear the carbs and had to be busted and re-worked.
Not a big deal, as far as we knew, to do the whole car that way until we knew we had everything where we wanted it. Heavy structural stuff, the tubing for the hoops, chassis and door bars are generally welded full round if we can get to all the surfaces. Stuff that's close to the ground or that's just too hard to get under was going to wait until the end of the project, right before sand-blasting and powdercoating. We were planning on rotating the chassis axially and using .030 wire to finish-weld everything that was tacked.
By doing that, we have created an Achilles' Heel. It got us when we trailered the car to the show yesterday. By strapping the car down with rods in place of the rear shocks, we created needless stress on the torsion tube -- which had only been hemispherically welded. The passenger's side broke loose, and now we're going to be another day behind schedule while we grind and rotate it back to the ideal position for a full weld.

(Continued ...)

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Images (3)
  • Hoopty and the Spyder at Carlisle
  • Hoopty and the Spyder II
  • Hoopty and the Spyder III
(... Cont'd.)

I'm also going to have to go over every other weld in the car to make sure they're intact and the angles are still correct.
The passenger's side rear tire in the third picture is at a visibly different angle than the rest of the car, and certainly very different from the front tire. The empty torsion tube, the blade mount and the axle tube (also empty of its axle) all bent under the bobbing up and down involved with the trailer ride.
Just thought I'd throw that out there as a caution, especially knowing how badly I wanted to get this thing out and seen by the Club folks at the show. I rushed it, and it bit me. The moral, I think, is that I could have blocked it up under the chassis at even a very few points, and I might have been okay. Unfortunately for me, I didn't even know to think about it.

(The show was great anyway, especially for that having been my first one ever as a participant. I put my pictures up in "Events" for general consumption.)
Cory,
One of the most valuable things that we all share with each other on this site is the mistakes we have made. Always try to save a buddy from screwing up like you did... Steve and I made a significant number of screw ups when we built our car that caused us to drop to the twenty and punt... Nothing like doing something twice to remind you how to do it the first time.

Like you, we've shared our build problems and solutions with other people. There are several people building 6 cylinder spyders right now that will NOT be making many of the mistakes we made because we coughed up the info to save them the agony and $$ we went through.

Ever heard the term "pay it forward"? It means do something good that you don't have to do, maybe even something that's hard and it will come back to you. When you've made a mistake and you share the info and save someone else the same problem, you're paying it forward in the car world.

I love your car and your great ideas - keep posting Cory!

angela
Thanks, Angela. The best thing about the show was the other owners and their willingness to chat about what object lessons there were to learn.
A couple people had suggestions on how to fix the torsion, for example, presumably based on experience as welders or builders in one form or another. Cutting the whole tube at a forty-five and welding a longer overall surface was one, and sleeving it now that it's an identified hazard and weak point was another.
Good stuff, and nobody even once mentioned the word "authenticity."
I really like the VeeDub aspect of this club. Everyone's right there to lend a hand or a suggestion.
Can't beat it.
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