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Now that LEDs have been around for a while and dropped dramatically in price, what's been the experience in replacing the BA15 tail light bulbs with equivalent LED versions? Any recommended sources? There are a bunch on line.

 

 

Bob

   

       

Last edited by Panhandle Bob
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Agree with BobG that "we" need a brighter rear light solution that doesn't melt the tail light lenses or require add-on diodes so the flashers still work.  I've been hesitant to go with costly LEDs that don't work properly.

 

I know replacement light fixtures are available for the old VW rear lights.  Think DrClock experimented with modifying those on Speedsters way back. 

 

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/1...nowflake-12v-kit.htm

 

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...jkvLwCFUiUfgodRnkA-Q

 

 

Last edited by WOLFGANG

I thought my LED replacements were considerably brighter and they did not require an extra diode or any other changes to make the turn signals or flashers work properly.  That said, the tail light shape itself allows a lot of sunlight to enter from the top, fairly effectively washing the light out when it's bright outside.  Fixing that will require some other approach beyond simply brighter bulbs.  Also, the low position of the lights doesn't help when someone is too close to you.  A center high-mounted brake light is a must, IMHO.

A few key elements when doing LEDs.  ALWAYS match the color of the LED to the color of the lens.  It helps immensely with brightness. 

Try to find a WIDE viewing angle LED.  Many are concentrated in one direction, and for a 356 taillight this direction is either too low or too high, but you can get 180 or even 270 degree bulbs that are much better.

Finally, don't skimp.  There IS a huge difference between the $5 ebay LED and the $25 industrial version of same.

 

Also, I 2nd what Lane says about a 3rd brake light.  Just puts a light at eye level to most other drivers....

I had the builder install teardrop led tail lights from Jim Franzen at Culayer.  At the time, they were $179/pair for US style.  Builder had to add a resistor, due to low current draw, and adaptor for 3-2 wire loom.  They work great and are seat-of-the-pants much brighter than originals.  Best of all, he's a small business guy in the midwest, with great customer service.  He has a website and is very responsive.  Google 356 led tail lights. 

I did notice different performance with the bulb colour. I changed the stop and brake lights because the white light was too dull. I changed to red and they worked fine. I used amber colour for my front indicators as the glass is clear. The rear indicators seem to work as white LED's in yellow teardrops. When buying them , some manufacturers said to use white LED's everywhere but with experience I do believe using the same colour as the glass is better.....I think someone said this earlier.

One thing more....the LED's are so much cooler, they don't reach anywhere near the same heat. They use so much less power, don't get hot but as a consequence the standard indicator relay doesn't work (works on a bi-metalic strip that heats up due to the power used) So I had the get an electronic indicator relay. The good thing is these relays do work with standard bulbs. The extra bit to install to make a standard relay work with the LED's is a resistor which uses extra power to simulate a standard bulb....why bother. I'd rather not have an extra bit that's isn't necessary really. The wiring keeps cooler too if you change the relay to an electronic type.

I would spring for a LED taillight kit myself.

 

I did make a great third rear brake light usind some LEDs. Theones on a strip with self adhesive ===just wired 'em in place of the old set up.  These are at the top and inside the lip of the grill.

 

But something to replace the average tail lights would be something I'd buy.

 

We shoould start a tab for items that our members like Gordon's Carb Link improvement kit, Cruze windows, those windot thingies that Alan M. has made.  Sort of an "In house store".

 

I think, as discussed before in a couple of threads, Jack and I arrived at the same simple solution for a center high auxiliary brake light - LED.

 

You can buy the lights in strips that can be cut to size. The strip has an adhesive back. There are two rows of lights on the strip.

 

Remove the grill. Line up the LEDS so they aren't blocked by the grill.

 

Wire them up to one of the brakelights.

 

The wiring can be run so that is at worst inconspicuous or at best, hidden.

You may want to trim the seal between the lid and the grill to allow for the light strip. The strip is thick enough to act as a seal itself for the top of the grill/lid fit.

 

I bought the strips, I think, at Auto Zone.

 

Takes maybe an hour at most to install.

 

As I've said before, the only guy who can't see these when I hit the brake is Stevie Wonder.

 

Total investment - under $20.00

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Last edited by Panhandle Bob

Bob;

 

I was basing this on the instructions, from supplier of LED 3rd brake light.  They say and I quote: do not wire to a rear light due to lower voltage and turn signal operation at that point. end quote. The site is http://thirdbrakelight.blogspot.com/

 

As you may recall I'm the guy who spent 4 weeks trying to correct non operative turn signals.  (Without Gordon's help, I'd still be there).

 

 

So I know zilch about 12v electricity. Based upon your success I'll wire mine to the easiest rear brake light.  Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last edited by Art

We tap directly into the brake light wire in the rear without issue.

 

Our LED 3rd brake lights come from a marine supply house and are sealed and rated for both temp and underwater use.  I figure that'll ensure they'll make it through the engine heat as well as the occasional shower...  They are not cheap ($40-50 IIRC). 

 

for bulbs:

 

The taillights use 1x 1157 bulb ea and 1x 67 bulb each

Front turn signals use 1x 67 bulb each

license plate light uses 3x 67 bulbs

city lights are also a 67 bulb

 

In my experience, the ones from SuperBrightLEDs.com are "mid-grade"... better than eBay but not quite industrial.

 

The best quality LEDs I have seen came via a website called HeavyDutyLighting.com  Can't buy anything from them online, you have to find a distributor, and then minimum order, etc, etc...  The guys that do my EV conversions use these lights, and may have a good contact, but I had little luck dealing with their MidWest rep directly, so I got them directly from my EV guys.

 

I just looked at the C U Layer site.  They have made several changes since I last looked there.  I looked into ordering these a few years back, but at that time there was something that kept me from doing it...  I honestly don't  recall the exact issue, but it had something to do with the function of the dual function light...  I also see that they have some nice LED replacement bulbs that are directed light and may be great for a quick swap...

 

Originally Posted by BobG / 2110cc '57 VS:

I think, as discussed before in a couple of threads, Jack and I arrived at the same simple solution for a center high auxiliary brake light - LED.

 

You can buy the lights in strips that can be cut to size. The strip has an adhesive back. There are two rows of lights on the strip.

 

Remove the grill. Line up the LEDS so they aren't blocked by the grill.

 

Wire them up to one of the brakelights.

 

The wiring can be run so that is at worst inconspicuous or at best, hidden.

You may want to trim the seal between the lid and the grill to allow for the light strip. The strip is thick enough to act as a seal itself for the top of the grill/lid fit.

 

I bought the strips, I think, at Auto Zone.

 

Takes maybe an hour at most to install.

 

As I've said before, the only guy who can't see these when I hit the brake is Stevie Wonder.

 

Total investment - under $20.00

PICT0568

PICT0570

PICT0568

Henry at Intermeccanica puts a similar light into his cars. 

 

The third brake light really helps, especially if - like me - you have beehives.

 

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