Skip to main content

Anybody have any feedback / experience utilizing CU Layer's LED replacement tail light assemblies?

I am looking at adding visibility at the rear when I hit the brakes and am considering switching out to LED and or adding a third brakelight as well. Searched the SOC site and there is plenty for me to work with in terms of a third light, probably a sub grill mount system of a LED strip.

CU Layer has a website showing both 6 volt and 12 volt setups and for both US and EU style 356 tail lights. $200.00 bucks a pair plus Uncle Sam's blood money. Seems steep, but less financial impact than an Escalade up the tail pipes.

Bob

Bob

   

       

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Anybody have any feedback / experience utilizing CU Layer's LED replacement tail light assemblies?

I am looking at adding visibility at the rear when I hit the brakes and am considering switching out to LED and or adding a third brakelight as well. Searched the SOC site and there is plenty for me to work with in terms of a third light, probably a sub grill mount system of a LED strip.

CU Layer has a website showing both 6 volt and 12 volt setups and for both US and EU style 356 tail lights. $200.00 bucks a pair plus Uncle Sam's blood money. Seems steep, but less financial impact than an Escalade up the tail pipes.

Bob
Bob. I happen to have a pair in route at the moment! I just talked to Jim Franzen the owner, builder this morning. There are two issues to consider with most of our cars... Most of the reproduction taillight housings on the market today are made in Taiwan. While they certainly look just like the originals, they are not on the inside mechanically the same as the Porsche OEM taillights or the German-made reproductions. They have to be modified to remove a divider between the bulbs that is in a different position than original, and then a ground wire soldered to the circuit board of the new LEDs... on the Porsche original taillights, the board grounds to the divider between the bulbs.

Also on the Porsche system, the brake light is toggled on and off for the turn signal function (single filament bulb). Our cars have dual-filament bulbs, one acts as the brake light and the other used for the turn signal or running light. To use the new LED units, you have to wire in a 3-2 wire adapter like you would use for a trailer.

Jim said that's a lot to do just to use his lights, but I'm going to forge ahead, take pictures, and do a write-up on what I did to make it work. While I'm at it, I'm considering putting a strobe unit in that rapidly flashes the brakes for a couple of seconds then goes steady. I'll keep everyone posted!

Another option is to install a brake pulse in your center rear brake light. I have a center brake light on my IM and I'm seriously considering installing one of these in the near future.
http://www.kahtec.com/smart_stop.htm
I had one on my 2006 MINI and I really liked it. The one on the MINI had a multi-pulse delay. If I hit the brakes it would pulse, but if I hit the brakes within 12 seconds it wouldn't pulse.
Here's a link to the MINI version:
http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NMA2504/InvDetail.cfm
I ordered a set of led lights from Jim Franzen a couple of months ago, but they're not installed yet. He's a stand-up guy, and one of the good guys: an engineer who likes to do his own design, manufacturing, etc. This is a small businessman who's a straight shooter, with an American business that we have the chance to support. He worked with me through several e-mail exchanges to make sure I got what I needed, before he would even run my credit card. Good on ya, James!!
Eddy said: "I got the LED light from the place that Michael pointed to me and the light is very bright, much brighter than the standard lights. However, when it is lighted it looks a bit different because the LED is round."

I run the CU Layers in my IM-6 and the 6V versions on the 356 I restored. I agree the lights when they come on are round through the lens but the point is to be seen. Henry also installed a hidden under the grill third brake light as well.

I would not leave home without them.

That Said I have got to go meet my daughters for lunch........Merry Christmas!

As far as installing them I went full bulit proof. If you look at the circut board there is a hole that is marked ground. I soldered a wire to it and took apart the spring screw and attached a wire direct to the hot lead. I then drilled a small hole large enough for the individual wires to pass through the electrical contacts leaving them intact able to be used if someone ever wanted to go back to stock bulbs.

Additionaly you don't ever have to worry about melting the lenses with hot 12 volt bulbs.

To me the CU Layers are a "No Brainer" expensive at about $200 bucks but what is tour car worth?
Pics to follow soon! I've modified the CU Layer LED assemblies just as Dave said to direct wire the taillights/turn-signals and soldered in ground wires. Took maybe 30 minutes once setup. I removed the center sections in the taillight housings (there in the wrong place by about 1/4 inch, which is why modifications are necessary) and have everything in place and put back together. I've got a 3 into 2 trailer light connector that will wire the turn signals and brake lights into one. Tonight I'm just butt connecting all the wires to make it work. Should finish up tonight or tomorrow morning. Pics should explain everything. All in all maybe a full afternoon's effort, but I've been taking my time and stretching to a full day... Prayer to the designer of the Universe should get me through the wiring connections :) I never leave out a good word to the Master Mechanic. I also thank Henry for posting a good wiring diagram!
Guy's I have not seen version for cars like this yeat But they are bound to become the next big thing.

I have seen a postage stamp size array that has about 100 micro superbrite leds on it and fella's they are brite and defuse alot like 60 watt incandecent halogen bulbs in the flush cealing light cans you buy at Lowes. Blinding BRITE!!!

The postage stamp array is only 10 watts.. That's pretty Radical!!!

You know there is bound to be a automotive version in the works. I'd wait about one more year. But asking around for them. Will help start it..

Everything works great and it was really an easy upgrade if you don't mind soldering on a circuit board and doing a bit of wiring! Here are pics of the before and after mod CU Layer unit. There were two GROUND locations on the circuit board, one on each side for taillights and turn/stop. Even though they bridge across the slot in the center, I soldered a wire in each side... Note the posts that are designed to go into the bulb sockets. I took them out and just screwed in my wires directly.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • CUL Before
  • CUL After
Next was to do the simply housing modification. Note the pic showing the divider. It is not in the same place as a stock 356, which is why you have to do the modification to direct ground the unit. In a stock vehicle, the divider goes through the slot in the unit and grounds it there. I just bent it a couple of times till the divider broke off. After it's out of the way, I drilled a hole in the housing to route my wiring through.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • Divider
  • CUL Wiring1
A question I probably should have started with at the top of the thread. Is it possible to just swap bulbs to LED?

I've looked at a half dozen websites that sell LEDs and some have bulbs where the LEDS are arrayed at 90 degrees from the direction of the base bulb, some on a swivel, that points the bulb straight out towards the lens. Others have the array on both sides or surrounding a stalk. Wouldn't the ones on a stalk. or with LEDS at 90 degrees to the base with LEDs pointing both towards the lens and at the chrome reflective base put out the most light? With the single sided 90 it would seem that I wouldn't be getting the benefit that the reflector provides.

I popped out my current tail light bulbs from my 2002 VS and noted that the inboard bulb has 12V15CP stamped on it, the outboard has 12V21/6CP on it. I don't know how to decipher the meaning of these numbers, beyond the fact that they are 12 volt, to convert them to available LEDs or iif their is a tit for tat swap.

The sites I have looked at do not seem to have conversion tables that reflect the numbers above, but they have 12 volt LEDs with what appear to be the right "bayonet" base.

If "plug and play" gives me the increased visibilty I want, that may be a good answer. If it brings on a host of problems then I might be better off doing the conversion.

Thoughts? Education? Kicks in the pants?
Ok, just about done! Here is a picture of the finished board install into the housing. Now we need to get the standard 3 wire lights (Stop, Turn and Parking) converted to 2 wire... One for Stop/Turn, and one for Parking. The unit shown below was $15 from a trailer supply. As you can see, it is pretty easy to figure out. That's it! Everything works great and is dramatically brighter than original. I'm still considering installing the in-line strobe/steady brake light unit, but wasn't sure how it might interfere with the turn signals so still thinking that one through. Right now, I wanted to get this finished up and back on the road. 70 degrees today and sunny :) Happy New Year all!

Attachments

Images (3)
  • CUL Installed
  • CUL Converter
  • CUL Wiring2
Chuck:

Thanks for all the tech info and the pictures. Really nicely done! I went to put my current bulbs back in and replace the lens and trim and darned if I didn't notice that the outboard brass fitting that the bolt goes into had busted off. looks like I'll be replacing a set of rear tail light systems to keep everything matched up.

If it isn't one thing it's another.

Did unbag the car and took it for a 10 mile spin. 19 degrees and dropping temp. Still a real joy, even in this ugly weather. Good thing was that we have had several inches of rain that washed away 6 inches of snow and most of the salt. At this temp, and after about a 15 minute warmup before driving the car never really reached running temperature and the oil pressure sat at 30 when I shut it down.

Happy New Year!
Guys, I changed the side/stop bulb with an LED. UK spec. You have to be careful as i ordered a buld from a specialist and it was to big to fit under the lens. Then saw a side/stop red bulb on ebay and it fit fine....very little heat. I still have standard turn or indicator bulbs as these probably need a unit to slow down the flash rate....sure there must be a LED compatible flasher relay though.
Stephen:

Wondered about the size issue as I looked at bulbs. I will take some measurements as it is difficult I think to tell if the inner dimensions of the light system on a VS is the same as on your Chesil, unless somebody out there knows if they are the same.

Is the configuration of your new LED one where the LEDs face straight out towards the lens, or are do they surround a stalk with some pointing at the chrome backing to the housing, or something different from either?

Thanks for your input.
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×