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Luis,

 

I've been told that here in Connecticut autos with LED headlights are not specifically pulled over because of them...but get added to the citation if you're stopped for whatever the initial infraction was.

 

BTW, one of the selling points listed for my VS was "H-4 headlights"

I didn't know then what that meant...and still don't!

Please tell me the 'What & Why' about H-4's

There is some talk that the HID bulbs are brighter than the LED's ... personally I have not done enough research and I like the Euro lights so I have H4 Halogen bulbs which I find quite nice ... I added on my new IM Marchal driving/fogs clear and I find with both lighting systems the vision forward is really much better and the peripheral vision is very appreciated considering as we get older we need more light.

Originally Posted by Carl Berry CT.:

Luis,

 

I've been told that here in Connecticut autos with LED headlights are not specifically pulled over because of them...but get added to the citation if you're stopped for whatever the initial infraction was.

 

BTW, one of the selling points listed for my VS was "H-4 headlights"

I didn't know then what that meant...and still don't!

Please tell me the 'What & Why' about H-4's

H4 just refers to the type of the bulb used. An H4 is dual filament (hi/lo) bulb of a certain size with a certain type of electrical socket. Likely put on the feature list because you can just change out the bulb without needing to change the entire reflector housing like you do with sealed-beam headlights. As another example, secondary driving lights might use a single filament H3 bulb. But the H3 and H4 bulbs are not interchangeable.

 

H4 does not have anything to do with them being halogen/xenon/HID/LED/etc.

Last edited by justinh

I'll let folks know how they work I ordered a kit for my 550. Thomas Duncan of Vintagecarled's sent me a free upgrade to my out of stock order.

Here's what he wrote me:

 

Pete, these would fit just fine if not better in your 550 
 
The heat sink and fan has been moved inside the lens, which warms the air thus warming the glass lens (to melt snow and ice etc)
 
We found the high/low beam is much more improved too.
 
Let me know what you think.
 
I'd strongly recommend them over our 2500 model (the one with the external heat sink)

email Thomas for Qs on the H4 / bulb base...  he is very responsive.  his kit includes the bulb housing (where the bulb mounts to.)

 

In regards to the heat Q, here is what he shared w/ me;

 

".. about the heat sink & fan being INSIDE the lens (about it overheating).  We haven’t had a single issue with it... I’ve currently got a set installed in sealed lenses, running for 3 months straight 24/7.  Still going strong!"

Last edited by Lfepardo
Ray-. If you want to keep your Euro Hella's they do sell a small adaptor ring that mounts on the light to go from the p45 bulb to the P43 bulb.

I purchased these for my Austin, so I could use off the shelf NAPA Halogen H4 P43 bulbs with the Euro lights. (P45s were getting hard to find). It's an old link... I hope it still works.

http://www.volvosolutions.com/Misc_P45T.html

... figured I would offer up a possible solution.... these work with standard P43 Halogens, and I imagine the LED bulbs with a P43 base.

Cheers
Luis

I got two good things today my new VA Antique registration and tags and my new set of LED head lights. All I can say with just a short test of these DOT lights is wow! The came very well packaged and took me about a half hour each to install. I took the 550 out for a night test ride and the low beam is brighter than my old Wagner bulbs for sure. Hit the High beam and man it pretty much lights up the night the difference incredible. I feel so much better with these even in the day light if you have these lights on you'll be better seen IMHO. I love them and will get a set for my Speedster.  As others have noted Thomas Duncan was great to deal with on the LED lights, excellent service when ordered. Got a picture today of my right seater.

 

Pete

550 Head Lights 008

550 Head Lights 021

550 Head Lights 028

550 Head Lights 029

Ann in the 550 10-12-15 001 [1)

Attachments

Images (5)
  • 550 Head Lights 008
  • 550 Head Lights 021
  • 550 Head Lights 028
  • 550 Head Lights 029
  • Ann in the 550 10-12-15 001 (1)
Last edited by mtflyr

 

Looks great Collin!

 

Now I have to get a kit for my Speedster too. The hardest part to the install at least for me is re-installing the black rubber gasket around the head light. The Spyder was easy but I've taken the Speedsters out before and spent a lot of time cussing trying to get them back in right.

 

I'll try what I did on the Spyder put the light in with the gasket inside the mounting screw tighten a little stretch the gasket around and finish tightening.

 

Pete 

Last edited by mtflyr

No doubt that these lights are brighter and very cool.  One thing to note here is how the old lights were fed their 12v.  If the feed was through the dash switch, it is entirely possible that the whole "Gee my lights are kinda dim." thing is due to voltage drop passing the required amps through the switch, and long wires that might not be suitable gauge.  This latter is exactly what was wrong w/ my lights, which were/are H4s.  The halogen bulbs should be plenty bright, but mine were less than I would have liked.  after my second (cheap Chinese) headlight switch burned out, I figured there had to be another way.  and the way is to use 12v relays to power the lights.  I feed the relays directly from the battery through an in-line fuse and thence to the lamps.  The relay is operated by the dash switch, through the existing wires used to power the bulbs initially.  The difference in brightness in my case is substantial.  Some of the pictures here of the "before" bulbs, which show a distinct orange hue, tells me that they are not getting the proper voltage/current.  The LEDs are going to be better because they are more efficient, and require a lot less current to run, and so will not be voltage starved.  So I am just saying that dim headlights MIGHT be due to poor wiring, bad switch and high voltage drop in your original circuitry.  This can be fixed.

Have you guys looked at this site.....http://www.danielsternlighting.com

Daniel makes some good points here about lighting and the design of the lense vs the bulb, and why we need to be cautious when we change light sources.  He does not feel we should change the bulb due to the reflector design which he feels will automatically lead to blinding the oncoming driver.  Interesting read...

BTW, I think if your running a 70Watt high beam circuit halogen on high beam that would be brighter than an LED... Of course El's comments come into play for sure. Ray 

Last edited by IaM-Ray
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