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Our favorite game.  Something totally bewildering happens, the car does not work right and so we ask:  WTF?

 

Background: after last year's nearly unending saga of carb re-fitments, and replacing destroyed intake manifold gaskets, and applying the world-famous 5 cent racing Heim joint throttle linkage, my car was running pretty well.  The Thurs trip up to Carlisle was delightful, friday was fine and so was Saturday, until I pushed my luck.  At the goading of several of my Speedster riding buddies, I agreed to join the group and run the autocross course at Carlisle.  Get it in second gear and put the pedal to the metal.  OK, fine.  Three tries at three laps each.  What could possibly go wrong?  Hit a cone, spin out into the weeds?  Did not seem too bad.  The runs were fun, I'll have to say, and the car seemed to go well until the third set of laps.  It started missing, and when I looked at the tach, it seemed possessed by a devil, slamming around and sticking at full reading, off the chart. Hmmm.  That was the first WTF.  Car was pretty hot by the end of the third heat.  At idle, the tach seemed to be reading about right.  Turned the car off, and it would not start a few minutes later.  WTF #2.  This one seemed to be a case of overheated fuel, and flooding, vapor lock.  Ran the battery down trying to get it going again.  after it was cool (20 mins??) and a jump start (Thanks Rocky!!), I was able to motor on, but the engine was not running right, missing and bucking esp'y at high throttle (WTF#3).  Sunday AM some diagnostics were attempted under the Marriott portico prior to departure for home.  One knowledgeable fellow said that since the tach was not working right, how about disconnecting it and see if engine runs better.  So we did that.  Not a fix.  How about a bad coil??  Connected another coil up (thanks Jack Crosby) and this seemed to improve things, but did not fix it.  The car runs, but bucks and misses when you step on it.  I was able to go at interstate speeds home along the mostly flat I83 valley west of Carlisle well enough but when I had to go over the mts on I70, it was not happy.  I goit home, and that cr has been in the garage since.

 

So, I have done nothing as of yet, and figure troubleshooting is next.  So what to look at?  The usual suspects might include, but not be limited to:

 

1. Ignition timing

2. Valve clearance -- here I imagine the worst in the form of a bent pushrod.  recall that I ran the car hard in the Auto-X, and very well may have over reved it.

3. Compression

4. Electronic ignition -- I have a petronix, I guess.  A magnetic induction breaker in the dist'r.  What can one check about these things?  Perhaps buy a new one and install that and see if problem fixes??

 

So that is about as far as I can think this one.  I solicit the great collective wisdom of the SOC to guide me through the diagnostic process.  What say you, Oh Mighty Sages??  In other words:  WTF??

2007 JPS MotorSports Speedster

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PS: I heard at the party that nothing good ever comes from racing.  Haha.  I suppose there is wisdom there.  Now I know better. Also, I suppose I am a bit miffed that there  was all this whoo-ha leading up to Carlisle about all the folks we were going to get to run the Auto-X this year.  And I was the only Speedster.  All the other stout fellows wimped out.  Just me and three MGs.  But maybe all was not lost as the records I saw had me first in class.

I believe that YOU, sir, have a going-south Pertronix module (or whatever that skinflint at JPS put in there).  That would explain the weird tach readings, the mis-firing under load and a few other things you have not yet mentioned.

 

Pertronix modules are particularly susceptible to high heat conditions accompanied by higher RPM, making the little system work harder that it might like and frying a couple of op-amps in the circuit (that's thrown in for you EE's).  When they go, they don't necessarily crap out at the same time so you get a period of sub-,marginal performance.  sound familiar?

 

I know it'll cost you a "Ulysses S. Grant" for a new one, just skip a couple of "Lump Crab Cake" nights and you're there......

 

Oh, and congrats for the 1'ST.  A well-deserved accolade, for sure.  Next time, wear earphones and have something good by Sting (his so-called, "jazz period" would be apropos) playing in your head - makes you a lot smoother in the transitions.....  Jus' saying'.........

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

My money's always on ignition, and I think Gordon may be right on the money.

 

Shortly after I started up the new motor, I went out and jumped on it. There was a loud bang, and all of the sudden it was missing horribly. I of course assumed it was the one-of-a-kind converted Black Box, but I had two done (just because I'm me) so I swapped it out. The problem persisted. Since I have two coils, I determined they couldn't BOTH be bad, which left me the pick-up module.

 

I took the cap off the distributor, and found that the mounting screw for the Pertronix had loosened up, and the pick-up was bouncing around pretty much wild and free. I tightened it back down (with some leak-lock), and Bob's your uncle.

 

Spare ignition stuff is always a nice idea. Points are pretty cheap. A set to check you're module might be worth it.

I don't even HAVE a Pertronics and I STILL carry a set of VW points and condenser in my tool bag.

 

Is that OCD or What??

 

Given away 1-1/2 sets so far to others who needed it.

 

Someday I'll spring for another Magna-Spark module as a spare, but for now.......

 

So, Stan......   Am I inferring that you drive that dual ignition with a single firing signal from a single disti module and the Black Box sets up the two firing pulses for the dual coils?  If so, is the delay of the second coil signal programmable (kinda like rotating the disti in the mounting bracket)?

 

Sounds pretty cool, and I think I remember you saying you did not go crank-fire on this set up - why?  Just saw a VW engine with crank fire control and individual (Ford) coil packs on the single plugs and that got me wondering about how you did it.

 

gn

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

OK, I have some ideas here.  Dropping in a set of old fashioned points is interesting, but I am not sure I want to go backwards in the technology Dept.  As an act along they way towards diagnostics?, well perhaps.  Certainly, having a spare set in the little black canvas tool bag would be wise. I'll look for the loose screw thing, as I have heard about this from many sources previously.  I'd be inclined to go for a new Petronix module and blue coil also, and see what that brings.

 

It sounds like you all believe that the tach is not the culprit here, as it is just responding to bad signals from the dizzy, right??

 

And so, what's the consensus about going up another plateau on the technology scale?  My thought was a crank-fire system and electronic firing system.  I'd not be averse to such a thing, as being able to fool with the advance curve sounds intriguing.  What other concepts are useful here?  PS: I do not think I'm up for a dual plug lash-up, so Stan the Man from Stanistan can sit back down.

Rather than hijack Kelly's thread, I just responded to your questions over on my thread, Gordon. I hope you don't mind.

 

Kelly,

 

Crank-fire is the way to go, unless you've got a compelling reason not to (enamored with old-school looks, worried about an apocalyptic EMP, don't like the idea of programming your own ignition map, etc.). It's not short money, unless you are willing to solder up your own Mega-Jolt board, and source some EDIS stuff from a salvage yard-- but it is dead-nuts reliable and gives perfect timing in any circumstance. It's also expandable to allow inputs for temperature, etc. It's pretty darned cool, and Danny Pip is the man to talk to about this.

Last edited by Stan Galat

RE: Crankfire. I am obviously a big proponent. It has been dead nuts reliable since 2008, and I've run it for at least 25,000 miles since then. ZERO maintenance. I swapped plugs once or twice, but I really don't think it was necessary.

 

EDIS module, TPS, VR sensor, and plug wires are all vintage 1990 out of a junkyard. I did buy a new Accel coilpack. The old Ford one worked fine, but I wanted it to look newer. I have a spare of all the above in the front trunk, just in case.

 

The why of crankfire: accuracy of 1/10th of one degree per revolution of the motor. Every single time, no matter what speed. 50,000 volt spark, to every plug, every time, no coil saturation with high rpm. EDIS is good to 9000 rpm or so, way above anything we require.

 

For me, it was the only way to get good, reliable spark and retain the 911 cooling system. The only dizzy that fits is an 009 or the like. Pertronix and Mallory won't fit, nor would Stan's new 8-port cap.

 

Kelly, get in touch if you want to take the plunge.

 

I'm seriously contemplating running twin plug now. Jake offered to do my heads back 6 or 7 years ago, but I didn't want to take my perfectly good engine apart. But now, with almost 40K on it, it may be time.

Ron: Rock, solid idle. Pulls well from idle through transition to mains. Handles low rpm/wide open throttle, no stuttering and stumbling. You have EFI, but easily fires through bloody rich carb mixtures. Cruises all day long at 3-4000. Zips right up to 6500 redline or higher with no complaint.

 

The bottom line, carbs with crankfire runs like EFI.

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