Lexan Side Curtains

I have seen a few reditions of these, but so far have not studied the attachment details. I imagine making some to fit my new car, but will need to understand what sort of metal hardware is used to join the plastic to the door. I further understand that the posts used in the manufacture of the canvas side curtains aren't useful here. So, how about a picture or two of what others may have dreamed up. Can do?

Kelly -

Check the photos of David Salvato (Link). David had a very cool tub with the dual-humpback tonneau like Cory.

Anyway, David fabricated his own side-curtains and they looked pretty good.

https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=MRDSALVATO&f=Picture+077%2Ejpg

BTW - David was the one who turned me on to this website. He passed me while I was cruising thorugh Laguna Beach and hollered out to check this site - the rest is history! Good luck with your side-curtains!

KELLY DOESNT JPS SELL THEM?

Also check out Joe Soltis' curtains. He installed the pop out round lexan vents to allow for a little airflow. Looks (and works) very nice.

I have sent David S. an e-mail -- his pics are about what I was thinking -- but he apparently is not taking e-mail at the SOC listed addr. Thought maybe he could give me a few pointers.

JPS says such a deal is a custom thing -- too much variation in body and top geoms to use a std size/shape. John does these, but charges a lot for 'em, as it must be a PITA for him. I elected not to bug him about it and try to wrangle this myself.

And another matter: I can't figure out how to dial up a certain SOCers page and pics. Guy named Soltis mentioned here, so how do I get to his particulars, pictures etc.? How do you do that?

Kelly,
Try this link: http://speedsterowners.com/files/thmblist.asp?sf=/Jogyver
His pictures are listed under the user id of "jogyver". It is accessable under the "photos" icon on the top of the page.

Kelley:

Go up to the "Photos" tab and click on it, then when the screen comes up, find the notice in the upper left corner which says "sorted by Date" and click on it - a new screen should arise saying "sorted by Name", making it easier to find anyone.

Also, David and I have the same side window mounts (essentially a 3/8" stainless steel bolt bent for the function and then cut off the head) but I think Ola Miltorp (also in SOC Photos) was the first to do something like that that I know of - at least, I copied HIS!

Email me if you need any help or paper templates. Granted, mine would fit a CMC (with a VS Stayfast top) but at least it would be a leg up on fab'ing your own.

gn

On a related matter, I am unhappy with the tubes that go into the door tops that came with my CMC kit.

I have seen past suggestions about looking in the plumbing or electrical departments of a place like Lowe's.

I haven't found a substitute.

Does anyone have any specific suggestions about what to use?

Thanks.

Gordon, Txs for the two tips. So the basic approach here is "Hack and cobble" I'm good at that. Going in, I was believing (because I have no hardware to inspect up close and personal) that the posts/stubs that come w/ the canvas side curtains would be useable for the plastic substitutes. I'll let you know how it works out,

You can use a flaring tool on a piece of metal tubing stock and make as many as you wish.

BTW Gordon has used bent stainless steel bolts for the side curtains, I've used chrome cabinet draw handles cut to length, both work well.

I can reach David Salvato's pix, just can't raise him at his SOC-listed e-mail addr. Really just wanted to ask him about the hardware he shows used for the posts. Between Gordon and Alan (txs fellas) I have a good idea how to move out.

Kelly,
Shoot me an email with any side curtains Q's you may have.
Alan

Kelley:

Wade through my article on installing a convertible top, here> http://speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=381

It also shows how to do your side windows...

gn

Gordon -

Thanks for sharing that article you wrote on fabricating side-windows. It's a great step-by-step process that even knuckleheads like me can easily follow.

e-mail exchange w/ Russ at Fibersteel (?) reveals that his sliding Lexan side curtains for P-cars will be OK for replicas if a pattern is provided: $450 for the pair. Ouch!

Yeah, good luck.. Russ has been "making them" for as long as I can rememeber but have yet to actually see a set materialize.

I could talk to the Lexan guy I know in annapolis, but John's suggestion of a template would help.
If you can make a decent template out of index stock, and mark on it where you'd want the posts located, I could probably make something work in an afternoon -- provided I had the car in front of me.
Kelly, you wanna be a guinea pig?

This would be an easy Carlisle tech session....
Use cardboard to make the templates (left and right side will have slight differences)allowing for the thickness of your rubber JC Whitney weather stripping
Dry fit the weather stripping to the cardboard template trimming where needed to get the best fit. Remove the weather stripping, leaving the paper on the Lexan, trace the cardboard pattern, with a slow speed jig saw and a blade specific for plastics slowly cut the pattern out keeping the cut to the outside of the traced lines. (Too fast and you will melt the Lexan )Dry fit the weather stripping to the Lexan and do a final test fit.
When drilling the mounting stanchions, you can run a drill bit in reverse and slowly allow it to slowly drill through or, purchase a purpose specific plastic bit.
For the stanchions, I use a 1/4" elongated chrome cabinet draw pull cutting off the one short leg as needed for best fitment. ( Gordon's stainless bolt idea is fine also)
Remove 1" of the paper from the Lexan, I use Super Glue Gel and dab the U channel on the weather stripping every 2" (Do not apply the glue to the Lexan as it may "push down" onto the lexan as the weather strippinhg is pushed on) Be sure to have it positioned correctly as you glue it in place.
Attach the stanchions to the Lexan with polished stainless steel washers and nyloc or acorn nuts. Remove the rest of the protective paper and admire your work.

Alan, excellent. All I would add here is that maybe -- I don't yet know because don't have the car to look at -- the plastic panel would work better if it was curved in to meet the windshield better. I think I saw something like this on Wild Bill's car. Also the issue of keeping the panel in place at high speed w/ a clip or something at the windshield (see Gordon's How-to) will need to be considered. Gordon also shows some alterations to the top canvas at tthe rear and an added snap, to tighten up the rear corner. All great ideas, and what it may take to "do it right". I think I followed Gordon's general descriptions, but I found some of the close up pictures he gave indecipherable. Probably because I have not yet been up close and personal w/ the parts yet.

I am more than willing to be a test case for Cory's help. Looking at all the tin on the Hoopty, I know he has good ability for laying out and cutting to fit.

My cousins own a plastics company 4 miles from me. They do thermoforming and custom parts. I've got a couple of cardboard templates I've been playing with and plans for sliding opening. RV windows use a lot of parts that would easily lend themselves to this kind of thing. This winter I'm gonna figure it out. What do you think the market would be for something like this?

Tom,
Big market as a West Coast individule has been promising them for years ...I've done a dozen or more of the side curtains using the Margard brand of "lexan". If I am able to get up there this weekend, we'll have a side curtain tech discussion.

If you come up with a design that'll fit a Beck, I'm interested!

Hey, Kelley! Just remembered something; when you buy your window material, go to a glass supplier and get at least 1/8" or thicker Plexiglass material. The stuff sold at Home Depot is only .094" thick - not even 1/8" and it's too flimsy.

I'm running .125" and it's OK, but that's about it. Wild Bill Drayer is running 1/4" and I think I'll be going that route when I make new ones in a few years, as it is far more resistant to "bowing" out at higher speeds. since you'll be looking for weatherstrip matrial anyway, might as well go for the thicker stuff.

Also, ask the glass person which is a harder material, Lexan or Plexiglass (Both are harder than clear Acrylic) and go with the harder, more scratch-resistant stuff - worth more money in the long run.

Either Lexan or Plexiglass may be bent by heating with a heat gun (NOT a hair dryer; you need at least 1200 watts. Just don't try to rush it, and it'll keep from getting wavy). I contour-bent the lower leading edge of mine to conform to the shape of the windshield frame, rather than mess around with re-bending the peg mounts (I was under a time constraint to start a migration and the heat gun was handy, but bending the plexiglass or the peg mounts will work).

Margard Lexan is the material to use, 1/4" by all accounts. Getting togather w/ Tom and Alan about how to run w/ this is likely to get to a good design. Market? I'd bet it will be huge, except for one thing: Each car is a little different, and each builder is different more so, so it really is a custom cut-to-fit thing,, as I understand it. John Steele says he can't make one-size-fits-all just for his cars -- each one has to be tailor made. Best we could hope for is a good How-to, w/ pics etc., maybe.

http://www.fibersteel.com/SlideWindows.html

Word is that hose are vaporware. They've never actually made them available.

Tom: You might overcome the fitment issues if you make the posts that hold them onto the car individually adjustable fore and aft in some sort of sliding arrangement. I'll be that would help a lot. You might also want to make them able to adjust in/out so that the tilt of the window can be changed.

Tom ,
While the VS and JPS will have the same top and windshield positions, the CMC and others will each have differences in the forward and aft fit due to the placement of the windshield and top.

Lane,

That is a very cool idea. When I get w/ Tom and Alan (if/when) we will consider how to do this. txs.

Whoever decides to go in to production could do so based on templates sent from customers. I have my cardboard templates made for mine, just lack the right tools.

I'll be willing to be a test subject.