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I was on the Samba and stumbled onto an old thread where I had written a bit about what camshafts do, and with the occasional questions about cams on here I thought some may benefit from it. I've changed it up a little bit for here (it was originally in response to a someone looking for a cam for a specific combo) so here goes:

Think of the camshaft as the timing device in the engine. It decides when the valves open and shut, how long they stay open (duration) and how much they open (lift). Ideally a cam/rocker combo is chosen after such details as displacement, intended powerband and use, heads, carbs and exhaust are settled on. If you look at a cam's specs you'll see the advertised duration (or just duration), duration at 0.050" lift, and lift at the cam. I don't recall the duration of a stock cam (250 degrees?), but I have seen the duration at 0.050" listed at 214 degrees and lift at the cam at about .290"(about .330" at the valve with 1.1/1 rockers). It also has very soft ramp angles (great for reliability, not so great for performance), lifting and seating the valves gently back on their seats.

 

This cam provides a dependable powerband from idle to a little over 4000 rpm. VW used this cam in their later (1300-1600 cc) type 1 motors in part because it provided enough power to push the car satisfactorily and it made the motor VERY HARD TO BREAK. It will run all day at 3500-4000 rpm (which is what it does at highway speeds). Try doing that in a V8!! The small intake, small valve, small port heads and low flow exhaust are all used to make the motor the torquey, indestructable low rpm unit we all know and love.

 

 Adding 1.4 rockers to a stock cammed motor equipped with dual carbs and a header is a good way to up the power; the higher ratio rockers increase duration slightly by 8 or 10' (one day I will plot it out) as well as adding about .060" lift at the valve. This is a very good match for stock heads, which don't flow any more past about .400" valve lift. The top end (or redline, if you will) is extended slightly and there is more power through the midrange to the peak rpm without destroying the torque curve. Have a look at   http://kaddieshack.com/1600dynoresults.html to see what adding dual carbs and a header, and then 1.4 rockers does for the performance of a stock 1600.  

When you add duration (the number of degrees or amount of time the valves are open) you move the powerband of the motor. Put an Engle W110 (284 degrees, 247' @ 0.050" and .425" lift at the valve) in a 1775 with dual carbs and a 1 3/8" header and the thing makes great power to 5500-5700 rpm (exactly where depends on which carbs and if the stock valve heads have any clean up work in the ports) and the small loss in power in the very bottom end isn't noticed in normal driving.

Put in an Engle W130 (308', 267' @ 0.050", .455 lift at the valve) and now you have a motor that has a potential powerband of 3500-6500 or 7000 rpm. Now of course the motor will need dual Webers or Dellortos, well ported 40x35 heads and a 1 1/2" exhaust to use all that duration and lift. In traffic with a stock stroke motor you might notice a slightly "soggy" bottom end; it all depends on how enthusiastic you are. More duration will just move the powerband up higher.

Stroking a motor can hide a few extra degrees of duration. A stock stroke combo that uses (for example) an Engle W110 can quite often be happy with an Engle W120 (294', 253' @0.050", .431" lift at the valve) when a longer stroke crankshaft is added. The added stroke adds torque (low end power) as does the change in rod ratio when you use a longer stroke crank with stock length rods. With some properly ported 40x35 heads, more lift also helps thoughout the rpm range. 1.25 rocker arms are a good idea to get the most out of that expensive porting work you paid for; with the W120 they'd provide about .490" lift, and this change again adds more overall power while extending the rpm peak from about 6-6200 to 63-6500rpm.

I've used Engle cams as examples because the W series is easy to understand; there are other cams that will fit your needs. In all the examples I mentioned the lift @ 0.050" because that number is the best indicator of what a cam will do. Some cam manufacturers have cams with long ramps and more advertised duration (I've noticed some CB/Eagle cams are like this) but the @0.050 numbers will tell you the effective duration (and approximate powerband) of a cam. Again using Engle's W series, think of the W100 (236'@0.050") as mild and the W140 (274'@0.050") as wild. Look at Berg's catalogue http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=165_2773 for a good description of the Engle W series and their applications. Looking at the duration@0.050" numbers for each cam and you'll see the progression:

stock-214' @0.050"- 4000rpm peak

W100-236'-          -5000rpm

W110-247-           -5500rpm

W120-253'-           -6000rpm

W125-262'-            -6500rpm

W130-267'-          -7000rpm

W140-274'-          -7500?

And there is a W160 (it's a drag race cam, power to 9 or 10,000rpm depending on heads, carbs....

 

Even with a big motor, there are compromises. If you value being able to jump in your tub at a moment's notice and travelling long highway trips (and never worrying about "unscheduled maintenance"), something like a W125 or W130 is probably not for you. Higher revving motors take more maintenance (and sometimes part$$) to keep running well, and although you may love the rocket ship like performance the higher rpms provides, even high strung big motors don't really love toodling around at rpms much below their lower rpms ranges for long periods.  



PS-My favorite cam for Webers and big valve heads is the W125 (262'@0.050" and .455" lift). I ran it in a 1750 (69x90) with 44IDF's and some wickedly ported 40x35 heads and a 1 1/2" merged exhaust and it was my main transportation for about 4years. Amazingly well behaved in traffic (for a stock stroke motor) and ripped over 6500rpm with great power. Yes, the bottom end was a little soggy, but I always thought a stroker would have cured that.........

 

I hope someone gets something out of this. Al

 

PS- There are other factors in camshaft manufacturing (lobe centers, ramp speed, base circle diameter are the ones I can think of right now) that affect how a cam performs and lives, but I was trying to keep it reasonably simple...

"older Intermeccanica Speedster (still under wraps in the garage) a pic wouldn't show much,what with all the junk piled on it..."



On a lifelong mission (much to my wife's dismay) to prove that immaturity is forever!



"Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."- Colin Chapman

Last edited by ALB
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Originally Posted by BillM:

Yup! good info as I have been working my way thru a lot of this info trying to decide what to build for my speedster project.  Thanks for posting........

Build it as big as you can (preferably over 2 liters); the bigger it is the more it will do and last longer as you won't be revving it as high.

Ain't that the truth, Ron! But with the bigger motor, although you're still abusing it, with the peak power point 1000rpm or so lower it's way easier on parts (valve train specifically, although the lower peak is easier on everything). For example, to hit the 140-150 hp range with a 1776 or 1915 it's going to need to spin to around 7000rpm. That's hard on parts (don't ask me how I know...). The bottom end/lower midrange is also really soft, being a smaller motor. For anything close to (or over) 2200cc's, 150-160hp happens around 6000rpm, and that extra 500-1000rpm is where maintenance starts to skyrocket in a street car. Since it's pointless to rev a motor much past it's peak, the bigger motor is easier on parts, and you get the added benefit of way more torque/lower midrange, thanks to the added cc's (and slightly less duration creating more power in the everyday driving zone).

 

I know you may know this, Ron; but this is something I want some of the other guys to understand.

 

Guys-It will take the same carbs, heads and exhaust to hit a hp point whether displacement is 1776 or 2276, so those costs are the same. The extra costs associated with a stroker motor (a little more for the crank, possibly new rods, clearancing inside the block, cylinder spacers and maybe a little more work fitting the sheetmetal) are not a lot in the overall scheme of a rebuild (as long as you don't go huge), but more than worth what you get in terms of reliability and lower rpm driveability. All I'm saying here is there are advantages to building as much displacement as you can....  

Originally Posted by hbkmat:

How does gas mileage compare?


As Stan showed, if the thing is tuned correctly and it's a well matched combo, the bigger beast will give comparable or better mileage than a smaller high strung motor. This is because of the bigger torque #'s it produces; the bigger motor will spend more time on the carbs' idle circuits. If the motor can utilize an svda (a distributor with vacuum as well as mechanical advance) the part throttle settings will combine with the leaner idle settings you can use with more advance, and during cruising will give the best mileage. 

 

But any motor (large or small) will get better mileage with an svda (when jetted properly) over a mechanical distributor.  

Originally Posted by Ron O:

Al, I love torque.  One of the things I really miss about my V8 Miata was the huge amount of low end torque.  Having said that, my 2276 is no slouch in the torque department.

The older I get the more I like to short shift. 

That thing must have been a monster! What was in it?

Originally Posted by ALB:
Originally Posted by Ron O:

Al, I love torque.  One of the things I really miss about my V8 Miata was the huge amount of low end torque.  Having said that, my 2276 is no slouch in the torque department.

The older I get the more I like to short shift. 

That thing must have been a monster! What was in it?


A V8...sorry I just could not resist!

I did a 355 small chevy for a friends 63 vett race car(raced since new, bought with the humoungus fuel tank in the whole rear of the car from chevy for road racing) the car was rough after almost 30 years of punishment, (real rough) but he was tired of the porsches of now days(late 80's) racing in scca.so I built him a 13:1+cr motor, massive head work, it had to have the oe intake, but the heads I did I had raised the intake ports about 3/8" taller.so I had the intake welded up all the way to the plenum on each runner then ported it to match the heads, it was the intake with out any flange where it meets the head so that mad it real easy to do, then I polished the out side perfectly than shotpeened it to give it the as cast look like oe has. it pased tech with no issues as you realy could not tell it unless you tore it down & miced it. he raced it a few times with that motor in it.I asked him how it ran he just smiled and said well they can pass me in the corners now but I blow by them on the straights, it's way over powered now.time to rework the entire suspension. the ignition went out down in seabring I think he said he was running in 3rd.he parked it puled the motor a few months lator with plans to rework the car than somebody had to have it, restored it&put it on the streets(probably went to barrett jackson, as it was a rare car) he still has the motor all pickeled in his garage.

 I would love to go road racing but dont want to go road racing.......as in any motorsport it's addicting &......... hi im mark,Im an addict.

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