Lights on speedometer - help

As a safety precaution, check your oil level, in case the indicator light wiring has been reversed somehow....  Take NO chances....

That's actually covered in the brief VS Owners Manual which you should have.  A copy is available here at the RESOURCES and then LIBRARY tabs.  It isn't much but it does cover some items. You have to be a donating member to see it though. 

Um, hey guys, the VS manual posted here shows the left light is oil pressure and the right one is charging:

I agree with Leon; it could be (and sounds more like) the oil light coming on. Stop revving it hard 'til you find out what's going on, because if it is the oil light, you're running the bearings dry at high rpm (and that truly is not good!). Is it full of oil to the top of the dipstick? Does it have a sump bolted to the bottom of the engine? How high are you revving it when the light comes on?

Edit- Look at that; while I was typing Mitch posted the dash layout....

It's very easy and not uncommon at all for these lights to end up reversed from what you may think they should be.  To verify which is which, just turn on your ignition without starting the car so both lights a lit.  Then disconnect the small wire from the spade connector on the alternator.  The light that goes out is the alternator light and the one that stays lit is the oil pressure.  Easy peasy!

I just did Troy's test and my 2013 VS is wired the opposite of what the manual shows.

The tach is identified correctly, though.

Ha, I was going to recommend pulling the wire off the oil pressure sending unit, then going for a short drive.

Sounds like a more-or-less stock engine, so 10W-40 for the rest of the winter.

I would put in enough to get home, then do a complete oil change. I know lots of people like Brad Penn, but hard to find. I agree with 10/40 for warm FL weather. See if it's leaking and where it may be leaking from.

Gary

Patela2;

If your talking local shop and that translates to Jiffy Lube; Oil Can Henry, etc.  They probably don't stock the plug drain gasket. You shouldn't reuse the gasket, IMO.

Art

Amish....   These cars require frequent checks on the oil level as a standard sump holds only 2  and 1/2 qts....  The original VW reccommended change interval was 1,500 miles....  If you do not have an extended sump AND pickup, hold it down in the twisties.....  No matter what, check your oil level OFTEN....

Be careful not to over fill, or you will have leaks and maybe hide the real problem area. My old engine leaked everywhere possible. 

Gulp - "Made it home after adding 2 jugs from gas station."  Like Leon said stock engine capacity is only 2.5qts.  An as Al said do not overfill as you can blow seals, foam the oil and have a real mess.  Is it an engine with lots of miles or is it leaking --- it's going somewhere. In FL, we like to use BP products - just go to your nearest Gulf Coast Beach and scoop up some. LOL.  Look for an oil with Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. Valvoline VR1 Racing oil has it.  Lucas has a ZDDP additive too.

10/30 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil is a great choice and inexpensive.  Check your local Walmart.  Up here in Canada Walmart sells VR1, but (unfortunately) only in 20/50 weight.

What is described is symptomatic of low oil pressure. Per the VW manual the oil light will also flicker if the engine is overheated. That can be caused by many things including low oil pressure. The fact it goes away indicates you are VERY low on oil. If you intend to drive your car hard you should get a larger sump and longer oil pick up tube. 

Amish,

I am in Orlando, FL and have successfully used VR1 20W50.

With added sump, still keep an eye on the Oil level.

Wolfgang.....    Is that zinc content in the BP petroleum, from all the zinc oxide washed off the noses of uninformed tourists????