Loaded on the flatbed, expecting bad news...

If you do a search on here (I used the Advanced Search option) you'll get a bunch of hits on how to adjust your steering box for play at the center, but I copied this from Tom Canty from 13 years ago:

"It's sort of a pain on a Speedster since there usually isn't an access plate like on a stock Beetle body. You'll need to jack up the front of the car and go in from underneath.

The steering box is on top of the front beam (where else!). On the top of the steering box is a 17 mm (?) nut with a "set" bolt through it with a screw driver slot in the top. Loosen the nut and turn the bolt a turn clockwise. Hold the bolt in place with the screw driver and tighten the nut and lower the car for a test drive.

Do it again, and again, until the free play is where you like it, the steering feels taught, and the residual "slop" is taken up.

Kind of easy, a pain because of the position, but a MAJOR difference in the enjoyability and drivability of the car when you're done. AND . . . you did it yourself!

Luck,   TC"

Personally, I think that's only half of the job (the above adjusts the worm gear only), since there is also a 1" Hex adjuster on the front of the box to adjust the clearance between the worm and the recirculating gear.  That adjuster has a BIG Hex locking nut on it that I use a plumber's sink wrench to loosen/tighten.  

It would be best to do a short search on here for the complete process, or better yet, get a Bentleys or Chilton service manual for the year of your pan and follow their instructions.  Even though it is a PITA to get at, adjusting the box is simple and with less than 2K miles on it, unless it was a never-rebuilt donor box, it should be OK and needs adjustment (or you have other problems under there that you should check out anyway).

Good Luck,  gn

You start with the big nut according to Bentley. My new(maybe?) steering box on my new car went out of adjustment after 1000 miles. 

I made a tool from a 24mm(15/16" works) nut and a piece of flat steel, bent and welded together. I bought a 41mm Lisle wrench on Amazon for 15 bucks or so.

Adjust the big nut FIRST, then move on to the little screw on top with the 13mm locknut. I'll post a pic of the tools from my phone later.

Make sure all the ball joints, tie rod ends are tightened properly and free of play. Pay special attention to the big nut holding the pitman arm to the steering box. A very small amount of loose here translates into big-time steering looseness. Also check the steering stabilizer, this is a necessary part for a tight and good steering feel.

If the car runs, the coil isn't bad. It may be marginal, but if it runs at all isn't totally bad. Depending on age and origin, tachs are more prone to failure, but it could be simply wiring.

Here you go

The front end floats so much Its really not safe, going to go through the whole front end.  I have read up on adjustment, but want an opinion of the rest of the suspension, tie rods, ball joints etc.  while its all apart.  The motor was confusing, heard the fuel pump running, smells like gas, made noise etc, but a large and sudden loss of power and almost no acceleration.  guess ill find out soon. Thanks all for the advice.

Please keep us posted as you sort this out. Sorry to hear about your frustrating issues, but discussions like these are hugely helpful to guys like me!!

It’s at the heart of why this forum is such a valuable resource!

Ndpendant posted:

... Any front end improvements in handling that people really like?...

One of the most common mistakes made by folks who are new to these cars is to use way too much tire pressure up front. And what seems 'normal' for a modern car (32-36 psi) is way too much.

Yeah, if there's a lot of play in the steering, you WILL need to fix that first, but after you do, try dropping the front tires down to 18-22 psi and go for a drive. That may be all the fixing you need to do. The ride should be much better, braking will improve, and it will dance around a lot less, too.

You may still want control and grip closer to modern cars (which could take some doing and possibly big bucks depending on how 'modern' you want to get), but many of us have learned to live with that 'vintage' (if somewhat dangerous) feel.

And a lot of the "Floating Feel" and bump-steer in the front end on these light cars comes from not enough negative caster - Easily corrected by a competent alignment shop with the proper instructions, which we can supply on here.

Sucked the #3 exhaust valve, is my bet.

hope I'm wrong.

Could have backed off the rocker arm assembly on one side. 

Gordon Nichols posted:

And a lot of the "Floating Feel" and bump-steer in the front end on these light cars comes from not enough negative caster - Easily corrected by a competent alignment shop with the proper instructions, which we can supply on here.

Umm...

You want positive caster. Negative camber.

Apologies, Gordon, but it's somewhat gratifying to see I'm not the only member suffering from oldtimer's.

DAMN!!!   I do that all the time, too!  

I do something else totally bass-ackwards too, but I can’t remember just what right now.

Thanks, Stan!

The smell of fuel & loss of cylinders.  Blown head gasket on one side?

Type 1s don’t generally have head gaskets, Tom. 

My money is on the 3/4 intake gasket. 

What!?!?!?!?!?!?!? 

I don’t have head gaskets on my 2,110?  

HOLY CARP!!!!!!!!

NO,        HOLY $#!+!!!!

I'll slap down a $5 on a intake gasket to head or,  loose intake bolts ..run it and spray some carb cleaner etc. and see if the rpm's picks up.

Seriously?  No head gaskets?

Lane Anderson posted:

Seriously?  No head gaskets?

Sometimes guys will use copper rings and call them head gaskets, but a lot of builders hate that, and put the spacers in the bottom of the cylinders to get the right deck heights.

The cylinders are iron, the heads are aluminium, and VW never used anything in there.

Yeah, I meant intake gaskets....

Alan Merklin posted:

I'll slap down a $5 on a intake gasket to head or,  loose intake bolts ..run it and spray some carb cleaner etc. and see if the rpm's picks up.

I had similar symptoms a few years back when I had the AC engine and it turned out to be loose intake bolts.  

Updates so far....The power loss was the #4 cyl spark plug wire broke at the plug fitting. so new wire and no other damage noted.  Pittman Arm was loose at the steering box, but after tightening, no improvement in the play, looks like a new steering box.  All other tie rods etc, all looked ok. 

The coil appears ok, going to check the full tach and wiring, Ive tried jump wires etc with no fix, so going to pull it and test it.

There is oil everywhere, and a transmission leak, so will wash it down and try to find out where it is all coming from. 

Little at a time I guess.

Yep.

Re: The steering box- Have them adjust it before condemning it.

I agree - They can produce a lot of slop but they are pretty easily adjusted.  If it isn't showing signs of leaking the grease out it should be salvageable.   The tough part is that everything is pretty close around the box so they're a bit hard to get at, but totally possible.  Make a small adjuster tool for the front Hex thingie, get a plumber's drain wrench ($12 bucks at Home Depot) for the big locknut ring and have at it.  We can tell you how to adjust it once you have the tools - 20 minutes work to Nirvana.

I tried the plumbers wrench but couldn't get enough leverage on it to loosen the nut. 41mm open-end wrench for less than a $20 solved that problem. Maybe you have more room is a Speedy vs. a Spyder.

Another update....adjusted steering box, wheel slop went from about 4" to 2-2.5" Still unacceptable so looking for OEM vs. AM steering box and will likely change out.   The front wheel bearings are shot, need to be repacked.  Found the oil leak probably, the oil cooler only had 2 of the mounting bolts instead of 3, so it has been hanging uneven and leaking big time.  Going to have to pull shroud etc and remount with new seals and hope that stops it.  Just getting better each day........Havent even gotten to the tach and coil issue yet.....

My play on my steering was 2 to 2.5" and I thought my car was VERY unsafe at that.

I got it down to about 3/4" and it feels very good there, so I understand your problem. Good you found the missing bolt on the cooler. Make sure you use the correct size seals for your case and cooler, I think there are two sizes.

NDPENDANT sounds like a whole basket full of what sound like minor things, giving you a fit.  Hope it sorts out.  Lots of on-point info here from guys what know.  As to the steering box adjustments, espy at the top, the trick is not to over tighten.  The pressure here needs to be just slack.  If you take it all out, the ball and worm will wear in short order, and you will definitely need a new box.  If/when I ever need to get to the top of steering box, I'm going to cut a hole in the FG, and put an access plate over it.  Be cool to get a real cover plate, one from an old P-car, but where do you find one of those??

FWIW, you seem way more capable than me.  I think you’ll have things sorted in short order.

El Frazoo posted:

NDPENDANT sounds like a whole basket full of what sound like minor things, giving you a fit.  Hope it sorts out.  Lots of on-point info here from guys what know.  As to the steering box adjustments, espy at the top, the trick is not to over tighten.  The pressure here needs to be just slack.  If you take it all out, the ball and worm will wear in short order, and you will definitely need a new box.  If/when I ever need to get to the top of steering box, I'm going to cut a hole in the FG, and put an access plate over it.  Be cool to get a real cover plate, one from an old P-car, but where do you find one of those??

with the pittman arm tightened, wheel bearings redone and the steering box adjustment Ill see where it is, but likely will install a new OEM box and go from there.  Just a PITA on a car with only 1600 miles on it. just wanna drive the damn thing.  Or get it all fixed and sell it like new~!  Thanks all for the advice so far, appreciated!

Nd

Please try to get a TRW box, if not a NOS German one - the Chinese reproduction is really, really junk.

I’ve got a Golf rack and pinion on my beam. Couldn’t be happier with the steering.

Pffft. Snobby IM owner....

I've had several boxes that I thought were bad that ended up being a loose steering arm. Be sure to check that too.  Just sayin.....

DannyP posted:

Pffft. Snobby IM owner....

 

Correct. My pooie don’t stinky. 

One bad plug wire is really good news, imho. As for the steering box, I've got nothing. Hope you can sort it quickly and inexpensively.

Tom Buchanan posted:

I've had several boxes that I thought were bad that ended up being a loose steering arm. Be sure to check that too.  Just sayin.....

all checked out, looks like its down to the steering box.  will go with OEM/Equivalent box for sure.  Want to be safe.

thanks!

I still want a real P-car steering box cover plate.  anybody??

Steering Box Cover, 356/356A/356B (50-61)

I wish I had a bead roller. If I had one that part would be about  15 minutes work.  Where would this go in the frunk?  Is it on flat part just under and to the right of the gas tank? Or the vertical area down by where the battery is.  I'm not near my car so I can't picture where the steering box is in relation to the frunk.  (sorry)