Looking for a "JPS" 356 outlaw coupe? Looks familiar!

Interesting air screen under the rear air intake grill, and louvers too..Hmmmm..Bruce

I think that is the one that was formerly owned by Rob the "Puffinator" from Maryland. Rob is working on a 914 "6" and owns a beautiful 911 RSR.

 

Chuck

Cosmetically, the car is quite beautiful.  I have a feeling though, that these coupe replicas may not live up to their looks.  There have been a few threads on here alluding to specific issues.

 

 

They sure do seem to change hands a lot, don't they?

Yeah--I wonder why too. Fantastic looking car.  As far as "issues", I know of only one that had issues  and that was the green one.  Notice that the rear windows now have the chrome surround ?  Nice--that completes the appearance package for me.  

 

I have thought that a coupe replica with a Suby engine would me da bomb. If I ever decided to get another car, that's what it would be.  But I don't feel that I could give up my Speedster for anything else now that I have it set up exactly for my driving. 

I can see the need for a lot of sound deadening inside (to include roof).  I bet it really drums and echos inside.  Other than doing the roof it wouldn't be a difficult job. Would be cool to add the canvas roll back sunroof like on '57 VW bug.

 

I think it's about the buyer and not the product.  A Speedster buyer takes his car out on nice days with the top down to have fun.

When you start drifting towards using the car as a daily driver, coupes are more attractive.  However, they aren't as much fun as a convertible and make lousy daily drivers compared to other things for the money.

There's a niche of people who would enjoy the enclosed car & are willing to put up with the issues.  Jack would probably be one since he makes long trips and lives in a climate where this could be a daily driver.

The other aspect is that the cost differential between the replica and real is not as much.  Some of the coupe buyers would drift towards an original.

Most people buy and flip Speedsters.  The die-hard enthusiasts on this site are the most likely to hold and enjoy and think about a coupe.

The Convertible D or cab is a better all weather compromise IMHO.

I'm a top down fair weather driver, who will be driving his DD to Carlisle from now on.  Your mileage may vary.

Having owned both a coupe and speedster at the same time, I can honestly say that I enjoyed them both. The coupe generated more interest at the car shows and  Coffee. I also had three other cars at the time so never tried to use it as a daily driver.

Real 356 Coupes are approaching three figures, where a replica coupe can be purchased for a third of that. Having owned over 30 real Porsches [ all 4 cylinder] I still love the iconic shape of these cars. My current 912 is slowly starting to appreciate in value, but I think it will be quite a while until it reaches 356 levels.

Chuck--very interesting.  I would have bet that a Speedster would garner much more interest than a coupe.  I learn something every time I tune into the SOC! 

 

Replica or no replica I hope to see ya'll at Carlisle in May!

I have a JPS coupe with the subie engine.   Interior noise isn't too bad.  You know the real issue here is the practical aspects of a hard top car vs the speedster.  The problem I think is the misconception that the coupe is entirely weather tight and perhaps a more practical car for daily use.  As it turns out while the coupe IS probably a better car for inclement weather it is NOT that MUCH better.   It is still a "toy car" (in my opinion) a weekend fair weather car.   I would advise anyone trying to decide which to buy (a coupe or speedster) to make the decision based mostly on which car appeals to you esthetically. The previous owner of my car found that the car did leak in hard rains, I haven't driven the car in rain or had it rained on but there are no rain gutters and I don't doubt that there will be some amount of leaking around the doors.  I accept that. These cars are pretty expensive and depending on expectations you could be disappointed.  They are not Porsche Caymans with old car looks. The JPS coupe is a nice car.  The subaru engine seems great to me plenty of power, it's noisier then I would prefer but that probably isn't a big deal to change it (most owners would probably like the sound of the engine)(I am the only guy I know who rides Harley's with stock pipes) . I believe the car deserves a better transmission but I DO understand the limitations which John is facing (as well as other builders) getting a transmission which does that job at an affordable price.   Everyone buying these cars would make changes to their cars.   What would I do ideally?   More sound insulation, a some what toned down exhaust note, and a better transmission.   My biggest complain with the transmission is the gear whine which I think really detracts from the car.  Maybe I just am focused on it and it wouldn't bother others.   An extra gear wouldn't hurt anything while we're at it.   Car does attract attention.    I had to laugh the other day.  I parked the car out side my favorite restaurant (in Carlisle Pa) and when I came back to the car there was a couple looking over the car trying to figure out what it was.  The lady said to me "I think your car's really cute but your dog is even cuter"   I had my little long haired dachshund with me.   My response was I agree completely with you.   My dog IS a cute fellow.But he's not perfect either.   Little bugger will sneak off and pee in the house every chance he gets. (some what typical of dachshunds I've found and he's a retired show dog and wasn't trained as a youngster)  Nothings perfect.  If my dog could type he'd complain about me I'm sure as well.   You have to love things even with the imperfections or drive yourself nuts in the endless pursuit of perfection.  (Which I DO tend to do)    

John I must say that I am very surprised that your coupe isn't waterproof.  John knows a lot about where the water comes in and helped me tremendously with my VS ar Carlisle 3 years ago.  My carpet is never moist even in the heaviest rain. Seems that some good rubber strips would seal your doors---mine are pretty well sealed up.

 

My car is not wet anymore because of the sealing I have done inside the pan as well as outside using bed liner.  With all the improvements it haqs received it's definitely a toy.  I could gas it up and launch fo the Left Coast right now.

 

re. your dog.  In my house I'm afraid he would be in the twilight of a mediocre career!  My dogs are like my Speedster---they don't leak (in the house).

 

Good luck with your coupe---it sounds like a wonderful car and the Suby is a huge plus.

(As many of you have heard a zillion times) I had  '61 356 B S90 for many years that was my daily driver.  As such, no problem whatsoever.  Yes, on cold winter days, it did not warm up very fast inside.  Yes, the rubber around the glass was old and leaked water.  I loved that car, and wish I had it still.  What was the matter with it?  It was made of steel, and of a design that was not well conceived to resist rust.  And so it did rust -- badly.  A proper repair of the body (full replacement surgery in a number of places) was WAY beyond my budget at the time (mortgage, car payments, two young kids, yadayada) and so it was/is somebody else's.  I believe a modern replica coupe would be much the same as my "real" coupe with the singular exception that the body proper would not rust.  This to me would be a HUGE advantage. Owners here report trouble w/ sound proofing, and I get that.  Seems an issue that could be fixed.  And a Subie power plant w/ water cooling (winter heat and defrost!!) would be the bomb, if you ask me.  Tranny whine?  More sound proofing and/or a better trans, w/ OD of course.

 

Which do I like better: my old S90, or my "new" Speedster.  To me they are pretty different things, and the nod these days goes to the Speedster. And to be clear, it is NOT a daily driver, falling more properly into the toy car box.  Life is just better with the top down.  And when the going gets tough, I get  the Mazda.

 

$0.02 worth . . .

I wanted a coupe...I got a coupe....never intended it to be a daily driver... use it like I would a roadster or a motorcycle... on nice days for short trips on back roads.

 

Mine doesn't leak...UNLESS I wash it with a high pressure hose...it will leak around the windows.. I have driven it in rain and snow and it was dry.... but cold..

 

I have no complaints, no intention of selling it.   

I have never driven a replica 356 coupe, but I have driven several original 356 coupes, one A and a couple of B Coupes.  

 

ALL of the originals have MUCH quieter exhausts than any replica I have ever driven, including my own.  What is it with overly-loud replica exhaust systems, anyway???

 

So.....take a replica coupe, put a Suby in it with a decent, (read that, STOCK) exhaust system with A/C, take the time to go through it and water-proof it and you would end up with a terrific daily driver.  Having a stock, Subaru 5-speed or automatic transaxle would be a definite plus.

Gordon--that is exactly what I thiought Suby Coupe would be like.  What a good looking car it really is!  So art deco to me.  Love it a lot.

Kelly---why couldn't a coupe replica have Dynamat installed everywhere---even in the top above the headliner---surely that would quiten it down.  That's what I did with my Speedster when I had the carpet out to waterproof it and paint bed liver everywhere.  Then I installed a new carpet set.  The door goes THUNK like a proper car should do!

My SAS Subi coupe is still a work in progress, but cabin noise is not one of my complaints.  I specified Dynamat or equivalent throughout the car, and it's not noisy to my ears.  Mind you, this is with a mid-engine configuration, which means the engine sits where the rear seats used to be.  It's also water tight.  Got caught in a TX downpour, and stayed dry.

The only thing that leaks a little in my Coupe is me....

I agree with John, I don't like the transmission whine. At 70mph, I don't mind the sound of the exhaust, but the gear whine can be exhausting. I have the old school flat 4 aircooled engine. So on the freeway, I just put my earphone even when there is no music. I have put the generic sound deadener on all the floor and firewall. I wish I can easily put it on the roof, but I don't want to mess with the headliner.

I wonder what the final drive is of the Type 1 tranny? I had 3:44-1 and it is a bit less noisy at speeds, unless your innards are a bit worn & noisy, if you have a subie engine, then the engine noise will not mask the 30 year old type 1 tranny which then becomes in a sense your last source of mechanical noise. Rancho should  be able to rebuilt it for a quieter tranny if worn. Ray (thanks for listening) 

I'm getting the impression that Dynamat is the way to go. I'm sure you could have JPS or whomever put that liberally on the roof prior to application of the headliner.  And everywhere else too -- why not?? I'd like to have some of that stuff for my Speedster.  Will look around and see what gives.  Jack: your experience w/ this stuff sounds good.  I'm not sure I want to rip out my carpet, however, so any application I might make would be to the firewall, I guess.  Which is just a piece of plywood.  JPS has applied some asphalt-related material to the engine side of the FW, and I guess I could Dynamat the other side, which is sorta exposed, although not too much.  I'd be thinking to apply likewise to the portion of the FG tub that surrounds the tranny too.  Trouble is: Would get wet in the rain, methinks, so wonder if that would be OK.  Anybody know??  Could one spray undercoating over the Dynamat to seal it up?  Need some input here.

I agree.  Couple comments.  First I don't know if my car leaks or not since I haven't been in rain however I know Dr Bash complained that it did.  Perhaps that was fixed when it went back to JPS (hope so but I am not counting on it)   I suspect that the builders are working on the transmission issues (again I hope so)   Apparently there is a problem using the Subaru transmissions in these cars or wouldn't that be an obvious better solution?   But you are right Gordon just a few improvements would make the car a lot more pleasant to live with.  I would think the dynamat insulation would be a standard of the industry or at least an option same with the exhaust. Things are very fluid on this stuff and my suspicion is improvements will continue to be made.     

Pretty sure the dynamat is used only on inside applications.   It would be a pretty big job to do on a finished coupe.   You'd have to strip all of the carpet up and my thinking would be that it  would not be easily reused.  The carpet in my JPS appears to be glued to the fiberglass and perhaps the issues is securing the dynamat and then the carpet to it.   Probably not too difficult to under coat the bottom of the car but my suspicion is that wouldn't do much for sound deadening of the things we are complaining about.   Again guessing the dynamat could be glued to the fiberglass but then you would have to provide some type of mechanical fasteners to hold the carpet.  More work and more expense.  Cost vs benefit probably.  

Dynamat is very expensive, but when it comes to this hobby what isn't? Anyway, I've used, and so have several others, a product called Quick Roof. 

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Qui...ng-BRQR525/202267102

 

It is relatively inexpensive and when I used it to line my doors during my stereo installation I was very impressed. It comes in rolls that are 6" wide by 25' long for about $20.00.  Dynamat is $340 for 33.75 square feet and the same amount of Quick Roof would be about $50.00.

 

Here's a link to The Samba where some guys discuss other options as well:

 

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...o-t--t-494002--.html

 

Good luck.

 

Robert

Kelly, I ripped out the tarboard that John installed in the engine bay and replaced it with a Dynomat equivalent. It is rated for high temperatures and has a webbed metallic top layer. It really helps quiet engine noise inside the cockpit but does nothing to silence the transaxle. That sound is transmitted via vibration through the tunnel. I'm sure a good rubber gasket around the nosecone would help.

Some good info at the Eastwood site - click on first video.

 

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwo...2&parent_id=3376

 

Note - These products say NOT for overhead applications such as roofs, hoods or trunk lids.  They have another product Boom Mat for those areas.  I suspect the product weight (gravity) and fact that those areas get hot from the sun - overwhelm the very sticky backing.

 

The HD product doesn't have the foil finish surface and check the weight (57#). The aluminum foil reflects heat but also gives a nice finish that carpet can be glued to. Eastwood has a seam sealer (spray, brush on or caulking tube).  If you filled openings around body to pan with the seam sealer and then applied the mat - only water from doors and windows would enter. 

 

Dynamat even has an Extreme product (say for rear seat firewall area) that 4x effective and light weight.  

 

Glad Terry mentioned the tar boards.  When I prepped the VW pan years ago I remember removing the stuff around the engine - scars still exist from the pointy sharp metal holding tabs.  The floors had black coated foam board.  The tunnel had HD equivalent matts that took some serious scraping to get off.  Doors and 1/4 panels has small pads of same stuff to prevent drumming.

 

Years ago I rebuilt a '67 TR Spitfire. I used jute carpet pad under carpet for sound deadening.  Worked great until it got wet.  Smelled bad and weighed 300#! I don't think Dynamat was available back then.  I did end up spraying under pan with rubberised undercoating. 

 

Note - Some complaints about the black "tar" melting due to heat on early Eastwood products - supposedly fixed now.  Might apply to HD product too. There are many cheaper Dynamat products out there.  I bought one that was a large roll like the HD product but foil coated.  A roll does a nicer job vs the small Dynamat pads.

 

I've used Dynamat or an equivalent on several of my cars and it works very well to deaden sound yet it does not work at all to lessen heat. For heat and sound deadening the complete Lizard Skin system is probably the best I've found, but it is a real trial to install since it needs to be sprayed on. Also it is expensive

Dynamat ADHERES very quickly and stays put, there is a 'learning curve' to installing it correctly. I first used Dynamat on the Cobra it really quieted the inherent 'noise' within a fiberglas body, the doors now sound like a regular car door when closed, I no longer have transferred road noise coming up through the floorpan, the back cowl wall/trunk area, or engine noise from the firewall...to combat engine heat I used Lizard Skin heat shield(learning curve on that one, thank God the car wasn't re-painted yet) with a layer of Dynamat over the top. It is expensive about $550 with shipping/handling for 4 packs. I used about 3 1/2 packs of it just for the Cobra for the inside of the doors, floorpan, both sides of the back cowl and the trunk and firewall area.

 

I used the all Lizard Skin system on the '48 Anglia, including under the trunk lid, the trunk area and the fiberglas tilt front end...Even without carpeting/interior yet installed, it significantly reduced noise and heat and didn't sound as if one were riding in a tuna can...still a mess to work with though... 

 

I heard of others that have used a product called Fat Mat, Noise Killer, and even the vinyl butyl roofing product from like Home Depot or Lowes with good results.

I needed something like Lizard Skin when I owned my V8 powered Miata.  With the top up the interior got VERY warm (no air con).

Lotsa good info here -- txs to all.  REALLY do not want to undo/redo the carpet, so looking to see how I could put something on the outer surfaces where trans is: back of the FG tub, and the engine firewall.  Hmmm . . .

I have no idea if it would work or not but a thought came to my mind.  What about Sprayed Polyurethane Foam like the stuff used by Phoenix Coatings?  It is a spray on insulation used for large maetal storage tanks and roofs.

 

Might be worth looking into.

Sounds like it's the Lizard Skin for you then.   And I agree redoing the carpet would be a hard way to go especially on a brand new interior.    For me I'll stick it out until someone comes up with a better transmission.      A lot easier to do before the car is put together.  Hope the builders read this stuff.     When a fellow is spending 40 big ones some of this shouldn't be.   I don't think any one would disagree on that.  

I think the only way you could do this is to pull the engine to open up the engine bay. You could Dynamat to the engine of the tub...won't stop heat but will deaden sound if applied to the engine side of the tub. Lizard Skin would be ideal if you use the complete system, yet is it messy if you have not done it before. 

Dynamat holds up very well to engine heat as long as the surface has been cleaned and prepped.