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hi there, I went to look at 2 replica speedsters (by Vintage)here in south Florida for the first time....I was pleasantly surprised how well made these cars are, now I want one! But sitting in them my right leg is in the way lol so getting a classic 13" steering wheel should solve that problem....the other issue was I had to reach for the stick shift, does anyone know if there is an extended shifter to be had? I'm 6'2. 

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You came to the right place to see about having Speedster issues solved.

 

There are a few places you can buy a shifter with a bend in the shaft to get it colser to you for easier shifting.

 

CSP makes the one I got (and really like)

 

There is a company in taiwan who also makes a shifter with a choice of shaft lengths and bends.  Some will chime in here with the name of that outfit.

 

6-2 is pretty tall for a Vintage Speedster but we have some guys taller than that enjoying their cars..  There are original type Speedster seats that are about 1/3 as thick as the more cusgioned seats Vintage sells.  That would give you a little more room.  Perhaps your seat rails have room to move to the rear to get more space.

 

Just a couple of idesa for you---others will have additional suggestions.

 

 

Last edited by Jack Crosby

Awesome thank you! Just knowing I have options seals the deal for me to buy one. I was also suprised how roomy the cockpit is, compared to my Austin Healey replica. I do have 3 other concerns....valve adjustments every 3000 miles? Is this something I can learn to do myself? And.....is a stock twin carb 1950 cubic inch engine enough power? Also is a highway transmission highly recommended? I'm just looking for a cruiser that can do at least 70 mph without whining out..tx again to anyone that can help!

"I do have 3 other concerns....valve adjustments every 3000 miles? Is this something I can learn to do myself?

 

Yes, they are relatively easy to do, depending on whether or not the exhaust system is in the way when you have to remove the valve covers to get at the valves.  Lots of folks on here adjust their valves whenever they change their oil.  Personally, I think that's way to often unless they do what I do: a "check" by rocking the rocker arms back and forth and listening to the sound as it contacts the valve stem.  If they have play and all sound the same, I'm happy.  I can also tell if a valve is tight or loose by the sound when it is running - that is an acquired talent that anyone can learn.

 

And.....is a stock twin carb 1950 cubic inch engine enough power?

 

Yeah, that's plenty for "spirited" driving just about anywhere.

 

Also is a highway transmission highly recommended? I'm just looking for a cruiser that can do at least 70 mph without whining out..

 

A final drive ratio of 3:88 to 1 would be perfect for that engine.  A 3:44 would be geared too high.  Remember that you want the engine revs to be slightly higher than what you might be used to in a water cooled car, because you need to move a lot of air with the fan to cool the engine.  3,500-4,000 engine rpm on a freeway is about normal with these cars.

 

Good luck......

"The Madness is strong with this one....."

I like the AH 3k replicas! Sebring is one? 1914 cc is a relatively cheap upgrade from 1600 cc.  Stock 69 mm crank with case/heads bored out to 94 mm (often called a 1915 cc engine).  Best to go with a counter weighted crank, performance cam and 8 dowel flywheel over stock.  An upgrade to a stroker crank with clearancing of case will give better performance (adds maybe $1200) - not that FL has any hills to contend with.

 

Air cooled engines like rev's to cool - the 3.88 R&P is nice to reduce them a bit but in FL go with remote oil cooler with fan. A 5 spd is nice but $$$$. Go Subaru if you want AC --- and eliminate most periodic maintenance.  I think every other oil change (6k) is sufficient for valve adjustments - easy todo but some exhausts are in the way.

 

Before jumping in - look at a tube frame car like SE Beck or newer IM.  Lots of toe room and no big intrusive door sills.  I'm sure VS can offer a lowered/dropped floor pan to five more head room.  A Roadster/Cabriolet has a taller windshield and top for added head room (with bonus windup windows).  

 

Checked your profile - ever hear of Dolphin Industries in Pompano Beach, FL.  I have Mod-T boat tailed full length dune buggy made by them (from early '80s). Post a photo of the AH. 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • T Mod dune buggie rf
  • T Mod rear rt side dune buggie
Last edited by WOLFGANG

Personally, I like a 2110cc engine they are good power to weight ratio, and can cruise at 70mph at about 3100rpm, if you have a 3:44 final drive in the tranny. This makes a real cruiser if air-cooled is what you want and you do not want the whine of the engine to be too loud. I personally find above 4K to be too loud for a long cruise. It goes along with the choice to have your head above the windshield or below the windshield if your tall, a speedster or roadster option must be looked at... Try driving with no head covering at 70mph for 30 mins and see if you can stand the pain of your hair follicles crying at being beat up...

Nice AHr, Johnny. That a 302-powered one?

 

You will find that the men on this board have a lot of opinions about engines, engine-sizes, cruisin' capacity, gear ratios and the like. These opinions, at times, verge on the evangelistic. Some of them are knowledgeable.

 

I will tell you the plain truth: Any VW-powered Speedster replica will cruise easily at 70 mph so long as the engine is tuned and the tub is not filled with lead shot. The cars weigh less than the VW Bugs they were made from, and Bugs could do 70.

 

Any engine you get. Is Fine. I ran my TD replica for four years with a 1500cc, single-carbed engine that, according to the PO who build the car in 1980, had about 250,000 miles on it. I could do 80 in that car; I just mostly chose not to. 

 

If yours has a 1915 with dual carbs you'll have 40 percent more horsepower than I had. It will do 70 at 3500 rpm, more or less, and 100 at 5,000 rpm. And you'll be able to do it, and should mostly choose not to.

 

Maintenance is easy and will become part of a zen-like routine, once a year or so. It is good practice to get under one's car from time to time and remind one's self of the miracle that is internal-combustion-powered transport. 

 

A Subaru swap will not give a maintenance-free situation. It will be an expensive, time-consuming and sometimes-frustrating exercise in gearhead one-upsmanship. Some people enjoy that sort of thing. Eventually, some become evangelistic about it.  

 

All that said I need to ask, as you need to ask yourself: why?

 

As the already-owner of a plastic-bodied roadster that turns heads where ever you drive, easily cruises at 70 mph, and is a veritable death-trap in an accident, why do you want another one?

 

If you're just looking to swap seats, OK. But if you're keeping both cars, ask yourself what you want/need/expect the fake Speedie to do that is different or better than the fake Healey. Functionally, the Speedster would be about the same, with the exception of maybe a bit more foot room, and the great advantage of having the heat of the engine dissipating behind you on those balmy July nights, instead of washing over your legs and crawling up your chest as it sometimes does in over-powered front-engined sports cars. 

 

As you already know, these cars are made to drive.

 

Welcome to the madness?

 

 

Last edited by edsnova
Originally Posted by johnnyrose:

Does dolphin industries work on vw 's ? I'll need to find someone reputable in my area for maintenance....

 

From what I can find they had a big fire that destroyed the molds and that wthl VW pans becoming less available with the introduction of the Super Beetle (which is not readily useable for dune buggies/kit cars), they just went away.  At their height around 1972 they were producing 7-8 drivers per day.  Interesting that they started as a dock box manufacturer. 

 

Wow - Nice AH 3000!  Blue Print GM 383 Stroker Crate Engine, 405 HP Vortec!  Rollup windows and a nice folding top. I like the minilite-look wheels too.  

Last edited by WOLFGANG

"A Subaru swap will not give a maintenance-free situation. It will be an expensive, time-consuming and sometimes-frustrating exercise in gearhead one-upsmanship. Some people enjoy that sort of thing. Eventually, some become evangelistic about it. "

 

••• certainly gets you away from valve adjustments every 3K miles, carb adjustments,  ••• Brings other issues

Well.....again tx guys for your advice....yes I'm swapping seats, the AH is going, the speedster will give me more cockpit room, and cooler summer drives for sure with the rear engine ( good point Edsnova). I'll stick with the vw engine for sure...I had 2bugs in high school(65' & a 66') and I loved them. I do have 1 final question for now while I hunt for a speedy.....can a wider tire fit on these speedsters (not the wide body model)  or what's the widest I can go without changing stock rims? 

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