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Hi all, about 10 months ago I placed my deposit for a Beck Speedster, and this week got an email that my chassis is complete and ready to go.  I am beyond excited.

This is my first foray into the hobby, and at Carey’s invitation I am heading to the shop in a few weeks for a visit and to spec the car in person.

I’d love to get some counsel from this community and learn from everyone’s experience with their own builds.

What do you wish you would have added/subtracted from your cars if you could do it all over again?  Any must-have options?  Suggestions/resources where I should be looking to help make good choices on wheels, mirrors, steering wheel, etc, etc?

Thanks so much, I’m really looking forward to everyone’s ideas and suggestions.

Sam

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Are you going with an air cooled VW based engine or a Subaru water cooled engine?. I have owned Speedsters powered by both and my vote is Suby power all the way. No worries about over heating and you get almost 100% dependability. An actual turn the key and drive experience.  You also get triple the HP and torque as compared to most VW Type 1 drivetrains. If you plan on driving  your Speedster a considerable amount then this an option to seriously consider.  If I am not mistaken Carey has said that the majority of their new builds are currently Suby powered. Congrats on your new Speedster build. Have fun during the process and keep us informed as to your choices and progress.Speedster Conversion 38speedster12

 

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Last edited by Jimmy V.
Jimmy V. posted:

Are you going with an air cooled VW based engine or a Subaru water cooled engine?. I have owned Speedsters powered by both and my vote is Suby power all the way. No worries about over heating and you get almost 100% dependability. An actual turn the key and drive experience.  You also get triple the HP and torque as compared to most VW Type 1 drivetrains. If you plan on driving  your Speedster a considerable amount then this an option to seriously consider.  If I am not mistaken Carey has said that the majority of their new builds are currently Suby powered. Congrats on your new Speedster build. Have fun during the process and keep us informed as to your choices and progress.Speedster Conversion 38speedster12

 

Thanks Jimmy, so happy to have discovered this community along the way.

Acknowledging that I agree with everything you said about the merits of the Suby option, I’m going with air cooled.  Part of the reason I pulled the trigger on this project is because I’m trying to capture a feeling, and I think part of the “vintage” driving experience is the sound.  You can’t fake the echo of carbs and I was worried the modern, water cooled running noise would take me out of the vintage experience behind the wheel.

I know I’m asking for more maintenance and “dialing it in” in my future, but practicality wasn’t really part of the deal when I wrote the check...

You didn't mention any thing specifically so I'll just throw this out there- go discs all around so the thing will always stop. If you're thinking of 5x205 mm bolt pattern wheels spend the few extra dollars and go with the aluminum Vintage 190's- they are so worth it. If you come from somewhere with real seasons, talk to Carey about seat heaters to extend your driving season.

@Sam Brown wrote- "I know I’m asking for more maintenance and “dialing it in” in my future, but practicality wasn’t really part of the deal when I wrote the check..."

A word of advice- if you're not already somewhat familiar with VW aircooled engines,  not a tinkerer, not prepared to spend time learning about oil changes, valve/timing/carburetor adjustments and a mechanic will be doing the maintenance on you car- call Carey first thing Monday morning and have the conversation about putting Subaru power in your car. I'm not trying to be difficult or insulting- I want your ownership of this car to be successful/enjoyable and you to own this car for a long time, but for too many people the romantic visions of ownership- jumping in at a moment's notice and driving off here and there with the wind in the hair (or scalp, as the case may be) doesn't meet the reality- the car sitting more than it's driven because, being aircooled, it's almost constantly in need of tweeking. The VW Beetle aircooled engine is technology from 60-70 years ago (when the automotive world was barely out of it's infancy), requires a lot of maintenance by today's standards, hotrodded engines need to be monitored more closely than normal and if you don't know what to expect it could ruin the experience.

Please don't take this the wrong way- I want you to enjoy your car and be a contributing member here for a long time. Al

Last edited by ALB

Yoda (ALB) is correct.  You live in DC Metro area - you'll want heat and air conditioning (sitting on I495/270 in traffic).  Water-cooled is truly the way to go.  Beck can build an exhaust that will give you the air-cooled exhaust sound (close to square exhaust ports of the 356 even) - without leaving a drippy oil trail.  Plus I believe it will maintain its value and be more desirable in the future.  No frequent oil changes or valve adjustments - no overheating.  

ALB posted:

You didn't mention any thing specifically so I'll just throw this out there- go discs all around so the thing will always stop. If you're thinking of 5x205 mm bolt pattern wheels spend the few extra dollars and go with the aluminum Vintage 190's- they are so worth it. If you come from somewhere with real seasons, talk to Carey about seat heaters to extend your driving season.

@Sam Brown wrote- "I know I’m asking for more maintenance and “dialing it in” in my future, but practicality wasn’t really part of the deal when I wrote the check..."

A word of advice- if you're not already somewhat familiar with VW aircooled engines,  not a tinkerer, not prepared to spend time learning about oil changes, valve/timing/carburetor adjustments and a mechanic will be doing the maintenance on you car- call Carey first thing Monday morning and have the conversation about putting Subaru power in your car. I'm not trying to be difficult or insulting- I want your ownership of this car to be successful/enjoyable and you to own this car for a long time, but for too many people the romantic visions of ownership- jumping in at a moment's notice and driving off here and there with the wind in the hair (or scalp, as the case may be) doesn't meet the reality- the car sitting more than it's driven because, being aircooled, it's almost constantly in need of tweeking. The VW Beetle aircooled engine is technology from 60-70 years ago (when the automotive world was barely out of it's infancy), requires a lot of maintenance by today's standards, hotrodded engines need to be monitored more closely than normal and if you don't know what to expect it could ruin the experience.

Please don't take this the wrong way- I want you to enjoy your car and be a contributing member here for a long time. Al

Thanks Al, I had been thinking about the 5x205’s, but also baby moon’s, so wasn't sure it was really necessary, but I’m going to file this away under “don’t regret it later.”  And seat heaters are also on my mind.  I live in MD, and this will hopefully get me an extra month on both sides of top-down season.  I’d say these are more likely than not.

I don’t take any offense by your push to Subaru power.  But I’m decided and not going back.  This car is a hobby and learning how to manage timing, and all the rest, is part of that hobby.  A buddy of mine keeps his inherited Austin Healey 3000 in my garage (I’m lucky enough to have the space) and he drives it frequently.  I feel like I’ve had a front row seat to what it means to care for an air cooled engine.  I am not a mechanic and it’s gonna be a lot to learn, but I’m an enthusiastic student.

 

I do have to say there are more than a few very nice Speedsters that are bought new and sold some years later with less than 1000 miles on them , many with less than 500 miles. Without fail they are all aircooled VW powered. They are offered with low miles  because the owners found the driving experience lacking their expectation and sold them. I would recommend driving a Speedster with both drivetrains before dropping $40k . The time to do so will be well worth it. I have been an aircooled guy for over 35 years and was happy to switch to the modern fuel injected technology and drivable power that  encourages me to drive my Speedster many thousands of miles with a giant smile on my face as I zip around town and on the interstate with 180hp and 160ft/lbs of Suby torque on tap. The closest thing you will get to that with an aircooled  VW based engine will cost as much or more and will be in most cases fragile, finicky and in the end break your heart and drain your wallet. Been there and done that.

That said. I hope you enjoy your choice without regret, as there are many on this site that love the vintage aircooled approach. I hope you become one of them in the end.

Last edited by Jimmy V.

Well if you listen to many of the comments you need to abort the Beck Speedster and buy a mid 90s 911 targa or cabriolet  .heated seats power windows cruise control ect .Sitting in traffic on495 or any other interstate is no fun regardless of car engine . My point is I wanted a replica of a speedster through and through You have selected in my opinion the best manufacture. To me the air cooled motors represent what Porsches have always been especially in the speedster era my two cents I could not stand by and read the comments  in devaluating the air cooled cars . option 3  get a Subaru Forrester  LOL I agree part of the hobby is caring for your car valve adjustments changing oil and filters all fun .and of course if you have the money to purchase a Beck you have the money to take it to the local VW guru and have theses things done .

No offense to anyone just my two Cents 

Pete

Sam, if you go air cooled and get it sorted out, you should be able to use it without major headaches. I use mine as almost a daily driver in any weather above 50 with the top down, having to change the oil and valve adjustments are second nature after awhile, I've never been stranded, but can work on it if needed not being overly complicated with electrical things. Changed the transmission to a more friendly highway gearing and changed rear tire size so highway  @ 70mph is now 2800 rpm and no overheating, very rarely if ever have to put a wrench to it. Good luck with whatever you decide..

I've had, like others, both air cooled and water cooled versions of Porsche replicas and one CMC Gazelle. While satisfied with the air cool engines I was never happy with the high-revs needed to move out, valve rattle & adjustments, carburetor sync'ing and oil stained garage floors. The lack of A/C while living in Florida made stop and go traffic nearly unbearable.  The main appeal of 356 based replicas is appearance and the attention they attract. Secondary to appearance are comfort and performance. Depending where, when and how long a person drives, A/C and comfortable seats need to considered. A long cruise in sweltering weather and on unforgiving seats can soon turn your car into a "garage queen". Last comment on air-cooled engines, unless one installs an actual Porsche engine with available OEM parts, finding air-cooled VW mechanics and genuine OEM parts might be more difficult than anticipated. There's no need to go into the poor quality of the Chinese replacement parts. As far as the sound of carburetors sucking air, I've seen them installed on Subys.  Test drive before you decide...

I'm just saying

Pete Ortiz posted:

Well if you listen to many of the comments you need to abort the Beck Speedster...

To me the air cooled motors represent what Porsches have always been especially in the speedster era my two cents I could not stand by and read the comments  in devaluating the air cooled cars . option 3  get a Subaru Forrester  LOL I agree part of the hobby is caring for your car valve adjustments changing oil and filters all fun .and of course if you have the money to purchase a Beck you have the money to take it to the local VW guru and have theses things done .

No offense to anyone just my two Cents 

Pete

I agree with you whole heartedly, Pete, that "the aircooled engines represent what Porsches have always been especially in the Speedster". I also disagree with the comments "devaluating (I don't think that's a word but it fits and we know the point you're going for) the aircooled cars" but everybody is entitled to their opinions. If you've been on here for any length of time, though, you've undoubtedly seen how aircooled Speedsters come up for sale occasionally with very little mileage for their age, and it's usually for the reasons I mentioned above. There are people who get involved with these cars and it's just not a good fit. We've seen this on here time and time again- the dream of roaring around all over the place with the top down and wind in your hair just doesn't meet with the reality of the garage smelling like gas, learning to start an engine and babying it until it's partly warmed up because there's no cold start mode (or even chokes) and you're worried about blowing the oil filter, having to keep a watchful eye on the gauges in hotter weather for signs of overheating, the top leaking (and the car filling with water) when it rains, there being no real (by anything close to modern standards) heat, having to wipe off the inside of the windshield in colder weather, and I'm sure our compatriots here could add to the list.

These are not modern cars, and for some people a Speedster purchase (especially with an aircooled engine) is a mistake. They're in love with the iconic shape but they expect a modern car underneath, and an aircooled Speedster simply isn't it. In the last year (or 2) there was a couple on the forum that was "so in love with Speedsters- they are so cool!" (or something like that). They were trying to decide between one of these cars and a Miata or 370Z convertible- when a lot of the points above were mentioned they decided on the Miata (or maybe it was the 370Z- it doesn't really matter) and were never heard from again. Then there was the lady (somewhere in the midwest?) who figured on making a Speedster her year-round daily driver (I got the impression she wouldn't have lasted 3 days of full on winter!)- she disappeared rather quickly as well.

The point is- these cars (especially when aircooled) aren't for everybody. They're cranky, temperamental with unique handling quirks that can get you in a lot of trouble if you're not careful. Subaru power, while not exactly 'period' at least broadens the fan base and makes our hobby that little bit more 'mainstream'. And as our cars are all replicas, none carry P serial #'s and will never be original (if we were to be as period correct as possible we'd all be running 6 volt electrical systems, 4 or 4½" wide rims, tall and skinny antique Coker tires, drum brakes and hotrodding 36 hp engines- oh, that would be fun!), I see nothing wrong with welcoming a few more into the fold (and I like to think I'm as staunchly on the aircooled side as it gets). As our beloved Uncle Stan has said- "it's a big tent, with room for all".  

@Sam Brown, I commend you for taking on the challenge! There'll be some investing of tools and at times it will be a little frustrating, but between Youtube videos (note now that not all are correct- ask here first!) and the advice you'll get here you'll make it happen. Do you consider yourself mechanically inclined? A car guy?

 PS-

@Lane Anderson wrote- " While I didn’t ALWAYS enjoy working on my car, it connects you to the hobby in a way that checkbook maintenance never will. "

I regret that I have but 1 like for that comment. Working on your own car teaches you to learn it's language, and if you connect with it and learn to listen to what it's telling you it will never lie.. (that last part, as much as I like it and would like to claim it as my own, is paraphrased from Bob Hoover)

Last edited by ALB

I have worked on my Subaru powered car plenty and 30-40 other vintage cars of many types. I disagree with the statement that implies that those who choose a different drivetrain don't connect to there cars or the hobby. I know every sound and feel that all of my cars make and know the second something changes and look to find the reason myself, I don't send the car to a shop to do that. I for one found the power and torque of the Subaru engine to be a great compliment to the light body of our toy cars. I don't fault anyone for choosing to have their car powered by whatever type of engine or electric motor they wish to use. The new guy was asking for our experience and suggestions and somehow the comments of some turned to assuming some of us don't connect to our cars on a mechanical level. We are here to support the enjoyment of our cars in whatever way that is for each of us, if by checkbook or wrench and everyway in between. Amen brothers!

 

Jimmy V. posted:

I have worked on my Subaru powered car plenty and 30-40 other vintage cars of many types. I disagree with the statement that implies that those who choose a different drivetrain don't connect to there cars or the hobby....

 

You are right, Jimmy, there are a lot of guys that are right into their cars even though they have a different drive train, but all the comments above are valid as well. For some a Speedster is a new toy and distraction and it doesn't take long for the shine to wear off.

"Working on your own car teaches you to learn it's language".

Well, I've worked on my own car a lot and have learned a whole new language at times, none of it repeatable on here.....    

Sam:  Bee Hives or Tear Drops?  Doesn't matter.  Whatever YOU like.  Just remember that, unless you want to duplicate a late 1956 356 (Beehives and three-gauge dash for about 4 months only in 1956), then Beehives = 2-gauge dash, while tear drops = three gauge dash.

Nardi, Banjo or Classic?  Again, whatever YOU like, but the classic with the horn ring can be easily set up such that the horn button beeps the horn, while the ring flashes the headlights - pretty handy and Über cool!  All three look great, depending on the rest of the interior.

Gordon Nichols posted:

"Working on your own car teaches you to learn it's language".

Well, I've worked on my own car a lot and have learned a whole new language at times, none of it repeatable on here.....    

Sam:  Bee Hives or Tear Drops?  Doesn't matter.  Whatever YOU like.  Just remember that, unless you want to duplicate a late 1956 356 (Beehives and three-gauge dash for about 4 months only in 1956), then Beehives = 2-gauge dash, while tear drops = three gauge dash.

Nardi, Banjo or Classic?  Again, whatever YOU like, but the classic with the horn ring can be easily set up such that the horn button beeps the horn, while the ring flashes the headlights - pretty handy and Über cool!  All three look great, depending on the rest of the interior.

Thanks Gordon!  This is the kind of feedback I was hoping to get.  You mentioned “...depending on the rest of the interior”, please say more.  You’ve got an opinion, I’d love to hear it!

Thanks

Sam Brown posted:

Rear lights: Beehive or teardrop?

Wheel: Nardi, banjo, or classic w/ horn ring?

 

Whatever your vision is, Sam. Guys will go on about how for this year this is correct but your car doesn't have a Porsche vin # so it doen't really matter. If you feel the need to build it to some factory build for a particular year, that's up to you, but remember it is not and will never be a real Porsche, so do whatever the hell you want. Want the early beehive look with the 3 gauges on the dash- go for it! Want to pull all the side trim and badging off and lower it a little- the P crowd won't approve (don't worry, a lot of them don't think much of our cars anyway) but we'll all think it's very cool! The bigger and more badas* the engine, the better!

I don't think any of us run drums all around, historically correct tall, skinny tires or a dinky hotrodded 36 hp engine... (think big evil laugh here!)   Al

ALB posted:
Sam Brown posted:

Rear lights: Beehive or teardrop?

Wheel: Nardi, banjo, or classic w/ horn ring?

 

Whatever your vision is, Sam. Guys will go on about how for this year this is correct but your car doesn't have a Porsche vin # so it doen't really matter. If you feel the need to build it to some factory build for a particular year, that's up to you, but remember it is not and will never be a real Porsche, so do whatever the hell you want. Want the early beehive look with the 3 gauges on the dash- go for it! Want to pull all the side trim and badging off and lower it a little- the P crowd won't approve (don't worry, a lot of them don't think much of our cars anyway) but we'll all think it's very cool! The bigger and more badas* the engine, the better

I don't think any of us run drums all around, historically correct tall, skinny tires or a dinky hotrodded 36 hp engine... (think big evil laugh here!)   Al

Yup, I’m perfectly comfortable making my own choices here.  Looking for some inspiration from all of your previous experiences and wisdom gained from what worked out the way you thought, what was less successful than you hoped, that sort of thing.  My personal preferences tend towards ‘historical’, but I’m not trying to make a “fake” either.

Hi Sam,

Welcome to the forum.  I just read all the posts above.  I'm not trying to be contrary, but I don't think you will learn much about air-cooled engines from your buddy's AH 3000 that's in your garage.  Maybe you meant something other than what you typed, or maybe I read your post wrong, but, barring an engine swap, his engine is water-cooled.

This is a great forum that has lots of collective wisdom on our replica hobby.  You'll get lots of advice, some of which you may have even asked about.  

Last edited by Jim Kelly
Jim Kelly posted:

Hi Sam,

Welcome to the forum.  I just read all the posts above.  I'm not trying to be contrary, but I don't think you will learn much about air-cooled engines from your buddy's AH 3000 that's in your garage.  Maybe you meant something other than what you typed, or maybe I read your post wrong, but, barring an engine swap, his engine is water-cooled.

This is a great forum that has lots of collective wisdom on our replica hobby.  You'll get lots of advice, some of which you may have even asked about.  

Jim, you’re of course correct on the Healey, I got sloppy with my words.  Was trying to allude to “process“ I’ve witnessed with my buddy managing his carbs.

Best thing to do is what @MusbJim does: Buy a basic Speedster with a nicely built 1915 air cooled engine, 4-wheel disc brakes and the transaxle of your builder's choice (after you tell him where and how you expect to be driving it), pick the wheels (Vintage 190s are very in) set the stance and 

DRIVE IT ALL THE BLESSED TIME.

Beware long technical threads on this (and other) car guy forums hashing out the merits of various carb sizes and brand names, fuel injection and turbo solutions and/or gear ratio choices. They will rob you of precious hours of your finite life, and the men who make them are weenies* who will attempt to convert you to their garage-bound, joyless lifestyle.

Be like Jim. Buy a cool-ass Speedster and drive happy.

==

*myself very much included.

edsnova posted:

Best thing to do is what @MusbJim does: Buy a basic Speedster with a nicely built 1915 air cooled engine, 4-wheel disc brakes and the transaxle of your builder's choice (after you tell him where and how you expect to be driving it), pick the wheels (Vintage 190s are very in) set the stance and 

DRIVE IT ALL THE BLESSED TIME.

Beware long technical threads on this (and other) car guy forums hashing out the merits of various carb sizes and brand names, fuel injection and turbo solutions and/or gear ratio choices. They will rob you of precious hours of your finite life, and the men who make them are weenies* who will attempt to convert you to their garage-bound, joyless lifestyle.

Be like Jim. Buy a cool-ass Speedster and drive happy.

==

*myself very much included.

Love this, thanks @edsnova.  I think this is a direct hit on my approach to the Beck order.

So.......  steering wheels versus the interior; 

Some wheels look better against a darker (or lighter) background.  Also, a “classic” looking wheel, like a white banjo or white classic tensioner might not look as good against a more modern (sculpted) interior, whereas against a classic interior (read that simple, flat) it might look better.  

Wooden steering wheels (Nardi, MOMO, even some classier Grants) look good with almost any interior color, so then the lightness of the wood grain, the spoke shape and configuration comes into play and, again, the final look is up to you.

Lastly, you may like the look of a leather-wrapped wheel.  We don’t see many of those (the two or three I’ve seen have been black) but in the right interior they can look special.

Sometimes you “luck out”.  My car, originally, was black gel coat and I chose a deep Burgundy red interior similar to a Pontiac Wildcat from the 1960’s that an uncle had.  It looked really rich.  But then I decided to go with a pearl white exterior and kept the burgundy interior because my Mom had a 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 XL with the same color combo and it pops.

My car is a widebody (mild fender flares)  -  it is more of a 356 hot rod than a classic, so I can get away with some ideas that are out there a bit, like a rosewood Nardi-like steering wheel, burgundy interior, Celtic Knot horn button (we’re both Irish), nerf bars instead of bumpers and a few other things, but all that adds up to my individual taste.

Have fun with yours!

Sam Brown posted:

Rear lights: Beehive or teardrop?

Wheel: Nardi, banjo, or classic w/ horn ring?

 

I've always preferred the bee hives over the tear drops.  That said, I have tear drops on mine.  

As far as steering wheels, that may be one where you should really try getting in an out of the car.  There are a few different size steering wheels.  Some believe the banjo wheel flexes too much for their liking, while others feel it is fine.  

While this forum is amazing, one thing you will find is that it is all a matter of personal opinions.  And unfortunately (or fortunately), that's going to require buying things that don't really work for you. 

The best advice is to try to test drive as many different speedsters as possible.  That should help you in your exploration.

Sam, if no one has mentioned it, you should look into coming to Carlisle, PA with us for the spring Import and Replicar show, third weekend in May.  Lots of info under “Events” on this site.

Once there, you’ll get to see a bunch of cars from all different builders and each with interesting different twists added by the owner.  Most of us will let you drive our cars, too, so you’ll get an idea of differences and similarities and answer any and all questions you might have.  The “Hines Boys” are usually there from Special Edition, too.

Plus, we’re a pretty good bunch of people to hang around with.

While we had our Speedsters lined up at Carlisle last year more than a few people walking around the event thought our cars were authentic real deal Speedsters.  I was surprised and amused. They had no idea of the rarity of real factory Porsche Speedsters and what they sell for today. So then it is no surprise they were under the impression we all had the real deal. We set them straight and they all still loved our cars. The event was a blast. I am trying to arrange my schedule to come for my second Carlisle event this year.

Carlisle 2019 13Carlisle 2019 15

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What Jimmy said!

Been going since 2006, haven't missed one. Great people, great friends, great cars.

Come, look at them, try them on, drive them, and figure out what options you "must" have. It's a blast. But really, it's the people. My wife was hesitant the first year, but she wouldn't miss it now that she went.

Hi all, I had an amazing visit with Carey at the Beck shop this morning.  It was like being 12 years old in a candy shop again.  Lane, I saw your super coupe in the flesh, looked great.

All the decisions have been made and all I have to do now is sit patiently for 3-4 more months...

Here are some shots of my chassis and body to commemorate the occasion.

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Gordon Nichols posted:

"Lane, I saw your super coupe in the flesh, looked great."

I can just see Sam, once Lane's car was pointed out, sneaking back over there with a Sharpie and autographing it in some obscure place, like up under the dash.  Then, a couple of years later as Lane is crawling under the dash to check or install something, he looks up and sees:

"Sam Brown was here!"

Will neither confirm nor deny

Hey all, it's been about 5 months since my last update and now that I've started getting some regular pictures from Carey, seemed like a good time to share an update on the build.  The first few pictures are from about a month ago when the body was being laminated, and the last few are from today as she's rolling into the body shop. Progress!IMG_3953IMG_3905IMG_3903IMG_3874IMG_3871IMG_4513IMG_4512IMG_4511IMG_4509

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Yeah, absolutely......  Keep the photos coming!  

 

That shop has expanded so much since I first met the Hines boys in 2004.  They now have quite the operation.  Someday, we should skip Carlisle and all make a pilgrimage to Special Edition for the First Evah, Carey Hines/Kevin Hines and Mike Fincher Blow-Out.  

Awesome BBQ, Deep Fried Turkeys, Local Craft Brews, Zac Brown Band, cruise to the lake, more BBQ and Craft Brews, maybe even have Zac Brown as a Speedstah right-seater.  Sounds pretty awesome.......

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
@dlearl476 posted:

Beautiful, Sam!  Are you going with the standard red interior?  Fwiw, I looked at a Gen 1 Boxster the other day that was silver/blue. I've always liked white/blue but I was really knocked out by it with silver.

Either way, I'd be tempted to go with plaid inserts the more I see it, the more enamoured I am of it.  

The red is beautiful, but it’s not really “me”. Opted for ‘Katzkin Tuscany Amaretto’

https://www.shopsar.com/amaret...atzkin-tamaretto.htm

Tartan inserts are gorgeous too, but I see them more at home in an early 911/912. An Irish Green ‘68 911 with Tartan is one of my absolute dream cars...

@Sam Brown posted:

The red is beautiful, but it’s not really “me”. Opted for ‘Katzkin Tuscany Amaretto’

https://www.shopsar.com/amaret...atzkin-tamaretto.htm

Tartan inserts are gorgeous too, but I see them more at home in an early 911/912. An Irish Green ‘68 911 with Tartan is one of my absolute dream cars...

Nice.

My first Porsche, a 69 912, was originally Irish Green. And the PO had it painted Guards Red .

My all time favorite: a 69 SWT. I'd actually prefer a 912. A 5 gauge, 5 speed to be exact  

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Yeah, absolutely......  Keep the photos coming!  



That shop has expanded so much since I first met the Hines boys in 2004.  They now have quite the operation.  Someday, we should skip Carlisle and all make a pilgrimage to Special Edition for the First Evah, Carey Hines/Kevin Hines and Mike Fincher Blow-Out.  

Awesome BBQ, Deep Fried Turkeys, Local Craft Brews, Zac Brown Band, cruise to the lake, more BBQ and Craft Brews, maybe even have Zac Brown as a Speedstah right-seater.  Sounds pretty awesome.......

Great idea

@ALB posted:

Looking pretty great Sam!  Is that 1 of your 4 bolt wheels in front in the 2nd pic?

Thanks @ALB! I ordered wide-5’s on Cinturato tires, so that's probably a shop spare they use for mock-ups.

EDIT: @ALB, I just looked back at the beginning of this thread, the wheels I picked (Vintage 190 5x205) were from your suggestion! This car has a lot of parents from this forum, you’re all riding along in some shape or fashion.

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@ALB posted:

@Sam Brown wrote- " I just looked back at the beginning of this thread, the wheels I picked (Vintage 190 5x205) were from..."

Glad to hear it Sam!  The VIntage 190's are so period correct, great looking, super light (they're as light as Fuchs alloys), yet still very affordable.  I saw Wilwood boxes in your pics- what did you go with for brakes?

Discs all around, but didn’t get into specs beyond that - so the rest was up to Mr Hines.

Welcome Sam, the main issue has always been and continues on,  is the ability to truly try out our 30-50 year old technology / hobby.  The Dream and Illusion is mesmerizing and the mirage of hair in the wind driving a lovely shaped 356 is just that an illusion, and non of us knew that we were deluded.

Hence on this forum, we have the collective experience of many who have owned originals and or now own replicas of every shape and build type.

I have personally grown to like many different manufacturers and builds that were done by individual owners but the advice on this forum, especially well worded by our resident plastic car expert shows us that newbies come in with one dream and the collective is simply trying to help out the sorting process.  The sorting process in the MIND that is the car comes after.

Trying to bring a modicum of reasoning to the choices to make would require a volume that is being written over and over again by all of us on the forum.

So whatever you choose AC or Subie, or other and what suspension, beam, 911, coil overs you will have to find out for yourself and live with it, at least till you upgrade.

Some who have owned both powerplants are trying to ascertain the amount of maintenance acumen and the appetite for maintenance the new member on the forum has, so that he is less disapointed in his purchase.  Don't you hate buyers remorse  

Plan well, and if you think you will do it later then maybe it is better to do it at the start of a new build.  Buy once...

Everyone here would agree that first time ventures would be well served to buy used, as close a car as their dream car would be considering their budget of course, this will allow then to sell the car and order their dream car.  


Hope this helps, welcome to the madness

Looking pretty stunning, Sam!  The Vintage 190's are pretty cool, and you'll be able to change the car's personality a little- hubcaps for when you're feeling it should look a little more classic and without for that outlaw look!  Loving the body without the side trim spears- is it going to stay that way?  Will the bumpers have the regular aluminum/black rubber or the flat aluminum Carrera trim?  Are you still going aircooled?  What size?  Dare I ask- engine specs?  Swingaxle or irs?  I saw from an earlier pic that the front will be Carey's new suspension- any pics?  Do you know what calipers and hubs they put on it (I'm sure it's something good since there's Wilwood boxes in earlier pics)?  These are things I NEED To KNOW!!!  Al

Thanks, @ALB, it's a lot of fun to post the updates - I'm happy you're enjoying them.  And I love the questions. I'm sure my wife is happy to have me redirect my enthusiasm a different direction once and a while...

1) I did spec baby-moon's, and decided to keep the 5-bolts under them anyways just in case the mood strikes me to "change it up", as you described.

2) The car will be wearing full brightwork, trim spears, full bumpers, bumper guards and all. Just not fitted yet.

3) Yup, aircooled it is. I opted for the "smaller" 1915cc type-1.  Lots and lots of helpful discussion with Carey about that one over the past 25 months (!!). Bottom line is I want air-cooled, and am willing to accept a baseline level of fiddling that comes with that choice, but not looking to spend more lime tinkering than driving. Is definitely the right decision for me.

4) I think I've shared every pic they've sent me, so unfortunately I can't scratch your itch for more suspension goodness.  But like @DannyP said, @Lane Anderson's got you covered there - won't try to improve on his already excellent journalistic abilities.

5) Re: Calipers, hubs, I have no idea - but I bet their good ones since Carey picked them out!

6) Other fun things I've enjoyed in the last month: the "stereo" is in, you can see a small hint of it in one of the interior pics; the speaker hidden in the door. It will have a bluetooth-only amp in the frunk so no head-unit will be visible.  Tunes to drive along to if you feel like it, nothing to see if you don't.  I also had an amazing time going back and forth on final shifter and steering wheel decisions.... but I'm going to keep those to myself until they're installed and ready for the final reveal.  Need something to keep y'all coming back for more.

Pardon my ignorance. It’s been some time since I saw a Beck Speedster in person. I was wondering when was the padded portion of the dash changed from a more “rolled” pad to the a more flat pad similar to the originals?

Also, it appears this speedster has sills and front map pockets, which I don’t recall seeing on past renditions. Is this new, or have I just missed these details the entire time?

Lastly, was the rear shelf/seat area changed on this Speedster as well?  

I’m loving the way this car is looking so far. Looking forward to more photos!

Is this new, or have I just missed these details the entire time?



I can really only speak for my own car, there are others who are much, much more knowledgeable about Beck’s evolution than me on this forum for sure.  I placed my order in March 2019 and learned it was one of the first with the new chassis and suspension set up.  I don’t know if the updated dash, sills, et al were linked to that evolution, or came separately earlier or later. I do know I didn’t spec map pockets or some of the other refinements you mentioned, so they are coming standard now, which is certainly appreciated and is reflective of what an amazing builder the Special Edition team is.

I've watched Beck's products evolve since 2005 and the difference is huge.  I always liked the chassis design, but the Brazilian-built cars had some rough spots.  Carey, et al, fought with that and finally made the wise decision to move production to the States, at which point things really took off.  Don't get me wrong, I loved my Brazilian-built '06 car, but the differences in build quality between it and one like Joe Fortino's are significant.  Now with the new chassis and other evolutionary changes the differences are even greater.

One thing that is probably influencing the "correctness" of the cars, particularly the interiors, is that Special Edition also does some restoration work on real 356s.  Because of the they have become very familiar with the "supposed to be like this" stuff.

Last edited by Lane Anderson

Don't get me wrong, I loved my Brazilian-built '06 car, but the differences in build quality between it and one like Joe Fortino's are significant.  Now with the new chassis and other evolutionary changes the differences are even greater.

@Lane Anderson I cannot agree more. Even the subtle differences between my 2009 AC and 2016 Suby are amazing. I believe the map pockets and seat area are new with the chassis design but the dash has been around for a while.

@chines1 you are KILLING me with what you are guys are doing. Can I just swap out my car for the new chassis and keep everything else?

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@Joe Fortino posted:

@Lane Anderson I cannot agree more. Even the subtle differences between my 2009 AC and 2016 Suby are amazing. I believe the map pockets and seat area are new with the chassis design but the dash has been around for a while.

@chines1 you are KILLING me with what you are guys are doing. Can I just swap out my car for the new chassis and keep everything else?

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What color is the Spyder in the background? Is it just weird lighting or for real paint color?

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No that is actually a yellow Spyder.  6405 Champagne Yellow, using the lightest alternate.  It did appear a bit more yellow in direct sunlight than it does in these photos, but not too far off.

On Joe's car, the wheels are actually a bit cheaper now that many sets have been done and the process has been "perfected" but theoverriders are getting to be unobtanium...  Since Gary passed away there aren't many choices for doing them.  They were expensive from Gary (maybe $3500 from memory) but today they'd be 2x that at least...

Here’s another update from the “SE team is awesome” digest.  I wasn’t super thrilled with how the exhaust turned out, basically disliked my own initial decisions. Sensing I wasn’t completely happy, but without me actually saying it, they offered to give it another go - and I couldn’t be happier with the result, stainless Dansk sport exhaust. Talk about meeting your clients desires without even having to be asked. These guys are good. Thanks @chines1

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@Sam Brown posted:

Here’s another update from the “SE team is awesome” digest.  I wasn’t super thrilled with how the exhaust turned out, basically disliked my own initial decisions. Sensing I wasn’t completely happy, but without me actually saying it, they offered to give it another go - and I couldn’t be happier with the result, stainless Dansk sport exhaust. Talk about meeting your clients desires without even having to be asked. These guys are good. Thanks @chines1



Do you happen to have any video/sound of the difference in exhaust notes?  Thanks

@chines1 wrote: "Surprisingly, only about t10% of our clients ever make it here or to facebook"

I'm really not surprised at that.  There are a LOT of replicas that show up at shows around New England and the owners either haven't heard of the SOC or the FB page or simply aren't interested.  Even when I lived in South Carolina - We had FIVE Speedsters and Two Spyders right in Beaufort and I was the only owner ever on here, representing about 15% so right in Carey's ballpark.  I can't explain it, though.

A lot of it might have to do with the state of social media in general.  I mean, I'm on three other forums and this is, by far, the most civilized of the bunch.  Even my high school alumni FB page can be a pita at times, whereas my last workplace alumni page is great (but the moderators are great, too).  If all people see is their regular Facebook news feed and the shenanigans on there, then they might not go looking for a replica-specific car site, you know?

@americanworkmule: Loud exhaust is an issue for me as I don't want the neighbors to feel that I am competing with the motorcycle owner on the next block. Swapping out the Trimil exhaust my speedster came with was the first change I made after my (2017 VS build) speedster was delivered. I was able to informally document the lower volume using the fact that a sound meter app can be added to any phone now. I'd be interested in evidence about whether the results are repeatable from car to car and from phone to phone if there were agreement about test protocol e.g.

  • phone/meter held at 10 feet from exhaust outlet(s) and at outlet level
  • separate 5 second measurements at idle and at 3000 rpm
  • test outdoors and away from vertical surfaces

I should have thought to capture some samples in the Courtyard paddock at Carlisle.

@americanworkmule: Loud exhaust is an issue for me as I don't want the neighbors to feel that I am competing with the motorcycle owner on the next block. .....
....I'd be interested in evidence about whether the results are repeatable from car to car and from phone to phone if there were agreement about test protocol e.g....

I feel the same way.

To me, this sounds nice... no Hoonigan!
"- Flowmaster HP-2 Series Hushpower Mufflers,
-Built for the perfect blend of rapid-flow exhaust with a mellow, '50s-inspired note"

For those that asked about the interior changes, here is a quick rundown.

I made a change to the dash pad and knobs/bezels shorty after I bought my original Speedster.  I just wanted to fine tune things towards authenticity...  I also changed the door top caps around the same time.  Joe's was one of the first with this treatment.  All cars get this as a standard now.

The door cards are up to the customer.  We do flat, like the original, flat with a pocket, or "D" style with locking map pocket. We also do other custom finishes upon request... we always have, but we have a bit more flexibility now that we have 3 full time upholsterers in-house.

The floor carpet and kick panel carpet with pockets was the most recent change.  Floor shape changed due to the new chassis and while we lost a tiny bit of room left of the clutch, we gained 2" seating height, which is huge.  The kick panel pockets were just something I wanted for authenticity purposes,  plus if you do a flat door card, the kick panel pocket give you a place to store things easily.  The area behind the seat changed slightly.  Honestly it was  needed to clear the new chassis, but I did it in a way that resembled the shelf of the original also.

Oh yeah we also did away with the tunnel mounted e-brake last year.  I did under dash umbrella handles on the first several cars, but Im not happy with the function so we're using an electronic ebrake now, testing the waters, and integrating them into the car's wiring so they can;t be operated while moving and they display a "park brake indicator" on the dash/gauge when engaged.

I think this is the last upgrade to Sam's car before I put the last long drive in her and ship...

@chines1 wrote: "If you do a flat door card, the kick panel pockets give you a place to store things easily."

I love that, and I, of course, have the el Cheapo CMC flat panel doors, so I'm gonna look at how I can possibly add the kick panel map pockets, too.  I have a YUGE! roll of the same Burgundy carpet that's in there and have been looking for another project, now that the garden's been rained out.  

You don't happen to have a few photos of what your kick panel pockets look like that you could post, do you?  I don't want to remove the kick panel carpet to sew the pocket on so I'll have to be creative in how I attach them.  

Thanks!

IM’s version is fashioned in hard aluminum II believe and they are held down with screws that hide in the carpet square weave .

Yhe original had overlapping carpet with a sewn edge which gapped a bit as a pant side pocket they were pretty cool in my original.

Glad to see you do those Carey, very nice addition.  I think they are special order at IM but you have to request them as they are not on the custom order sheet at order time same with moving the wheel archways or pie cuts for 6 cyl. Cars

Great convenience item IMO

Now @chines1 are we getting a 356A coupe from you sometime?  That new frame should work with any body

Last edited by IaM-Ray

That's what I had in mind, Bob.  My floor/kick panel spaces are a little different, but I had already thought of just getting a colored border to match or complement the carpet color and just screwing it to the body.  I believe that I still have the heavy vinyl "binding" that came from CMC for a portion of my CMC seats that I never used, and I bought an entire roll of color matched carpet (8' X 12') at Home Depot almost 20 years ago.  I've been using it for a new driver's side carpet every few years as I wear a heal hole in it.  Maybe I can graft in a rubber pad for that, too.

YAY!  I've found another project to consume part of the next few days!

@IaM-Ray posted:


Now @chines1 are we getting a 356A coupe from you sometime?  That new frame should work with any body

I think there is a "gentleman's agreement" of sorts for turnkeys there. Greg does the bent window pre-A, JPS the A, and Carey the C. I wish Greg and Carey did an A coupe though, I'd gladly buy from either of them and NOT from JPS. It's not the car, it's John.

I know there are a few others that make an A body: Ralph Albiter in Mexico, Kitman Motors, and maybe more.

Nobody does or wants the B, unless it's a real one.

@IaM-Ray the speedster chassis would work for someone else's coupe body however mounting to the chassis would be different and it would certainly need reworked at the rockers and inner sills and wheel wells.  My coupe chassis would not work for anyone else's body.  

No, I do not plan on an A coupe body.  The last thing I need right now is a new project.  Sales of what I make currently are still outselling production 4x and we're still in the learning/tweeking phase on our newest 2 products, plus I am knee deep in a watercooled chassis (Boxster) for the 904GTS.

FYI, I started with the A body when we took off on this project and then everyone had an A so I decided to do my own thing, plus it is also "in my blood" from the ENVEMO days of my father...

@Gordon Nichols  I make mine out of composite and then they go on afterwards.  they aren't as integrated as the originals, BUT I also need them to be easily removable so you can access the kick panel cover for hinge access, speaker access, wiring harness access, etc...  Anyway, they have one attachment point at the bottom and then 2 at the top, all of which get covered over with an insert after they are installed.  I'll e-mail you pics.

That's what I had in mind, Bob.  My floor/kick panel spaces are a little different, but I had already thought of just getting a colored border to match or complement the carpet color and just screwing it to the body.  I believe that I still have the heavy vinyl "binding" that came from CMC for a portion of my CMC seats that I never used, and I bought an entire roll of color matched carpet (8' X 12') at Home Depot almost 20 years ago.  I've been using it for a new driver's side carpet every few years as I wear a heal hole in it.  Maybe I can graft in a rubber pad for that, too.

YAY!  I've found another project to consume part of the next few days!

Here are what the finished kick-panel pockets look like in my car, Gordon.  Between these, the door pockets, and the real lockable glove box I have lots of storage inside now.

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Last edited by Lane Anderson

Thanks, Lane.   Very sophisticated.  And it's surprising, the  difference between a Beck and a CMC - Apples and Cumquats.  I'm hoping to end up with something similar, just not extending that far forward.  Once I'm in the seat and belted in, it difficult to reach that far forward, anyway.  I'm just looking for some place to put my phone and/or mask, other than the passenger seat or in the CD slot mount.  

Thanks

At first I was a little disappointed that the Coupes were C instead of A, but that wore off quickly during development.  Now I prefer the C, particularly sans bumpers.  The front end wrapping under suits me and I really like the larger windows.

I think I’m kind of an outlier. I’ve always preferred the C, with the exception of my all-time favorite hard top 356: the Karman coupe.

What’s really funny, if you ever see a C and a 65 911/912 side by side at a show or something, is how similar they are. I think that’s one reason I prefer them.

It’s not that so much, I feel very prepared with all the paperwork. It’s that currently MD only allows DMV visits by appointment for Covid, and the next isn’t available until 9/15…. I did book it, but I’m going to head to a tag & title place tomorrow to try my luck and see what happens.  Maybe they’ll even let me slip in with a historic registration…?  That’s going to be my opening bid - wish me luck.

Good luck. It worked for me.

But being an out-of-state title transfer, you’ll more than likely need a VIN inspection. If MD still allows LEO’s to do those, you may be in luck. Many states no longer do and have special dmv offices that do it.

I lucked out, when I did mine, Utah still allowed manufacturers & dealers to do them so Carey filled mine out for me.

Last edited by dlearl476

Keep in mind my usually successful opening line with anyone associated with the DMV

Dress neat, walk in with smile , greet the person in front of you asking " I hope that you can help me today " For whatever rational, it always works for me.

Me, I adopted a tactic I learned from my dad: I tell them my life story up until the moment they called my ticket. By the time I get to the important part of the story their eyes are glazed over and they do whatever I want.

Saved me a $100 charge for lapsed insurance recently when I re-registered my 968. Apparently, my address change never processed when I moved back from NY, despite me registering it in Utah. So when I dropped the liability when I put it in storage in 2018, they sent the “Vehicle Off Road” warning letters to NY then cancelled my registration. I pled my case and the cashier dropped the $100 fine to get rid of me.

.

@dlearl476 posted:

.

...Behind a fresh, frame off 63 (?) Impala restoration...





It's a '62.

I didn't have to Google.

I was 13 years old, and becoming a man of the world. We were required to know all of the GM, Ford, and Chrysler products just from the tail light configuration.

At night, and from a distance of 100 yards.

The Bel Air had only two lights per side, and no aluminum trim plate.

The SS had that cool faux machining in the trim plate.

Already, we were learning that there are the haves and the have nots.

Chevy, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac.

In that order.



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@Sacto Mitch posted:

I was 13 years old, and becoming a man of the world. We were required to know all of the GM, Ford, and Chrysler products just from the tail light configuration.

At night, and from a distance of 100 yards.

Mitch, you are showing your age - this is snippet is a relic of life in an America long gone.

"I was 13 years old, and becoming a man...". I'm struck by the fact that in today's America, 13 years old is about 1/3 of the way through a protracted childhood. I went to school with a farm kid who's dad died when he was a sophomore in HS. Junior and Senior year, Kurt missed a week (or two) of school in the spring to plant the crop, and the same in the fall to get it out. This was not unusual.

I started digging ditches and soldering "drops" for my dad the summer of my 12th year. My friend went to work swinging a hammer for his dad, and my other friends all detasseled corn from 5 AM to noon all summer long. Nobody expected anything that wasn't worked for.

We knew cars by their taillights as well. At one time I could tell a big-block from a small-block with the car driving by at 30 mph. All any of us wanted was to be men, and to operate such a machine, and to have a pretty girl in the right seat.

My kids were raised the same way. They stride as giants among their peers.

One of my HS friends (Rick, who now lives at "Surf City" in Huntington Beach, CA) got a '62 Chevy SS as a graduation present.  Pale yellow, black interior, set of ET Mags and lots of that engine-turned "bling".

And the Rompin', Stompin' Cheby straight six and Power Glide.  

Still, it looked VERY cool, attracted it's share of chicks and got him through college and into his first job.

He now hangs out with a bunch of retired firefighters and drives an F/250.  Times, and us, have changed.

"Fellas, the eagle has landed.  I immediately did a few spins around the neighborhood with my wife, then of course with each of my girls who I think we're more excited then me.  She's in her new home now, going to head out to tag/title place soon and will report back on progress, or lack thereof..." - @Sam Brown

WOO HOO! What a beauty. Here's wishing you many miles of top-down driving enjoyment!

Back it out into that green background and take a million photos.

On the list, have no fear.  We're slightly sidetracked by some mechanical troubleshooting, so photos will be delayed but hopefully not for long.

Tag & title shop wasn't able to get it registered on the spot, but they got farther than I or they thought was possible initially.  I have the temp registration through mid-October, so it won't slow down my initial enjoyment. And hopefully the wait won't be more than a week or 2 for them to get it through the system.

Will upload a bunch a pics as soon as I'm able.

@dlearl476 posted:

Can I play?
853040E8-017C-478B-A60C-4D94E6C54EE9

Maybe, maybe not. It does say Brotherhood Of Silver Speedsters and that is clearly a Spyder. A meeting of the Brotherhood of Silver Speedsters will have to be convened first and if we have a quorum we can take a vote. The Brotherhood prides itself on inclusivity so there's good chance you can still get in. The same goes for everyone else regardless of the color of your Speedster or Spyder.

After careful consideration I vote we drop all references to color and still call it BOSS but it will mean Brotherhood of Speedsters & Spyders.

Well if we’re trying to be inclusive, brotherhood ought to be changed as well, right?  Also, clown car seems to be an acceptable term to encompass speedsters, spyders and coupes within these forum halls while avoiding the somewhat controversial term replica.  So I give you Family of Clown Cars.   FOCC.   Or if somebody insists on including replica, may I suggest FOCCR.  Your pronunciation may vary.

@edsnova posted:

Sam, where you at?

Sorry guys, I had hoped to be regaling you with dozens of pictures and tails of twisty country roads by now.  We have encountered some mechanical challenges that are delaying launch.  Carey, Mike and all of team-Beck have been really wonderful, including several (several) weekend calls, texts and videos.  There is a part on its way that will be here on Monday, and then hopefully we're off to the races.

I'm not going to go into details right now, it doesn't really matter and I'm refusing to let it be a cloud over my party.  Carey's been great, they're doing everything, and those treelined county highways are only about 36 hours away.  I promise to update as soon as there's an update worth sharing.

Sorry for the false start on Friday, but here she is!  Build quality is amazing, I couldn't be happier.  I've only put in about 50 miles so far, but planning to stretch that out quite a bit over the long weekend.  She's also fully titled and registered!  Thanks again @chines1 for all the help in the last week (and weekend...), that level of support is incredible to a newbie like me.

Check out the custom shifter and wheel hub, 2 of the things that really make me smile and Carey went the distance on to achieve. Also wanted to highlight the electronic e-brake button on the switch plate under the dash.  It cleans up the center section so much without the traditional brake handle in the way and works very smoothly.

Let me know if you want to see anything close up or are curious about anything specific, happy to answer questions about the car (shocker). Many adventures to come!

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@LI-Rick posted:

@chines1, tell me more about the electric e-brake.  Is it a stand alone motor that pulls the cables, or something built into the caliper?

standalone motor hidden inside the tunnel on brackets welded to the chassis.

wired so that it can only be released while the engine is running and cannot be set, preventing someone from accidentally pushing it while driving.

also wired to a park brake indicator light on the dash so you cant forget about it and try to drive off with it set, although it pulls so damn tight, you'd know for sure...

we've been testing it for a little while and Sam's car is the first standard build with it.  As long as it doesn't prove to be problematic it'll be standard on speedsters and coupes moving forward.

I think I have forgotten the E-Brake on a lot of cars, fortunately never without consequence except the first time on a 69 VW beetle.  Smell burning do you



For what it's worth, I had an Electric switch E brake on my 2019 Jetta DD, it was not my favourite.  This car was very base DD so when I traded that thing in for a 2020 Golf GTI, it came with a real hand brake, honestly, that is more to my liking.   I have the umbrella brake on my Roadster but for true usability the mid seat location with a real E-Brake handle is my preference. Just saying.

Last edited by IaM-Ray

@wrkinprogress "where it belongs" in a speedster would be umbrella under the dash, and even Porsche stopped doing that because the geometry in our cars sucks for that type of hand brake.  It works, but not great.  "where it belongs" (as far as Im concerned) as a general automobile, is between the seats, and I too was taught to use them as hill assist, but so many don't want to see the tell-tale hand brake on a replica.  Fortunately it's easy to do either way so someone could request it either way and it's all the same to me.  Plus with the standalone pedal in our speedster/coupe, heel-toe is very easy and I can hill assist that way almost as easily.

@IaM-Ray I am on the fence about it. For someone who doesn't want to see a hand brake and wants something that functions better than the umbrella, its a good solution, but not without its drawbacks too.

@LI-Rick yes and it would take a different upright/spindle to integrate it (we looked at it for the 904 also) so we were looking at roughly $2k in upright changes and then a little over $1K for the wildwood set-up, so $3k in e-brakes didn't make sense.  this solution isn't cheap ($500 plus a few hours labor) but was the better choice for us...

I've got the umbrella hand-brake. It was a $350-$500 option with IM 15 years ago. It is in no way worth $500. I was hung up on "the tell" of a tunnel-mounted hand-brake - but at this point I don't care who knows it's a replica or what they think about it, and a tunnel-mounted brake is 10x more useful than the umbrella.

Do as you wish. Your mileage may vary.

Last edited by Stan Galat
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