looking for help-main seal leaking

My clutch is slipping, its ok around town... but when I try and get on it the car gets louder but does not go any faster. I have had oil drip from between the transmission and engine ever since the car was delivered. I am assuming oil has reached the clutch and saturated it causing it to slip under hard acceleration.

1st question: Does this make sense?

2nd question: Does anyone have shop space/tools I could use for a day/weekend around the Baltimore area? I am trying to sell the car because I am broke. I cant sell the car with it in this condition, and cant pay the $600 to have it fixed.

Funny thing, I had the engine pulled 3 weeks ago.

Looking for some help is all.

Probably oil on the clutch... post the car info as is... you might get a buyer ~Alan

Going to pull the engine and drive it in another car to get it fixed. Seems as if most of the cost is due to labor.

In regards to your first question "YES" it's mechanical and everything mechanical, no matter how good it is is subject to breaking.




You really don't need shop space, just enough room to put the car on jack stands and remove the engine.
If it's the main seal behind the flywheel, you'll need some special tools to remove and replace the flywheel.

Getting the seal out is relatively easy and it can be done carefully with a screwdriver. They make a tool that will seat the seal but it can be done with a block of wood and a rubber mallet.

If it's the transaxle input shaft seal, that too is pretty easy to fix. Remove the throw out bearing and you'll see where it mounts around the input shaft and rests in the transaxle case.

You can rent the flywheel removal tool from aircooled.net.

It probably seems like I mention my torquemeister every chance I get but it is great for removing and replacing the flywheel gland nut.

Paul - I emailed you and it bounced - I'm in Springfield and you are welcome to use my 2nd garage bay, floor jack and tools. I'll be working on mine in other bay!

try asking your local VW club. i bet someone there would lend you the tool. if you lived near me - i'd lend you my tool. It's an easy fix, but will take several hours. pull the engine, use the 'torque dude' to remove the flywheel, and replace the seal. make sure to clean the surface very very well. use a small brass brush to make sure it is clean snd free of anything that would snag the seal going in. i used a light coating of permatex when i put mine in.

Paul ,

You don't really need a tool install the rear main seal you can use the old seal and a rubber mallet just make sure the seal is tapped in straight and use the old seal to seat against the case also change the o ring in the fly wheel that get's dried out and could leak also. ROLAND

PAUL, HERE'S WHAT THE O RING LOOK'S LIKE. KIND OF DEMO ON HOW TO USE THE REAR MAIN SEAL AS A INSTALL TOOL GOOD LUCK ROLAND

Thank you to everyone for your responses. Wolfgang, I will be getting an email off to you. Roland, the picks are helpful. I was told at one point to use a block of wood and malet to press in the new seal. Using the old seal makes a lot of sense.

had the same prob last week in my super, the seal was a nice new red one so took a couple days to acquire the O-ring, had a new bus clutch on hand and all came out good except i now have to pay attention or i stall it!

William,

I did not do the repair myself, dropped the money and took it to a shop. I too was caught off guard when letting out the clutch at the first couple stop lights while driving it home.

Ok the seal worries me. If it's on the engine side... Your rear main may be going out. Or they could have lost the O-ring seal ..

Theirs not much you can do but rebuild If the bearing is gone ((IF)) that's what it is.. I'm hoping one of the other things..

But usually this happens when the tranny seal and pilot bushing wears out on the transmission side leaks. and yes New seals are available..

Degrease the flywheel and the pressure plate and have them crosshatched sanded for a new oil free clean clutch disc, and a new pilot bearing in the gland nut.

Replace the tranny seal and pray it behaves...

(((ALSO))),, Make sure they did not overfill your tranny the last time it was serviced that will do it for sure!!! and in that case the clutch should be theirs to pay for..

If the leaks stop. You will be a lucky fella

Barry, Paul's car isn't very old, less than 5000 miles, right, Paul?

The seal could have been cheap or maybe it ripped going in too. Maybe end play wasn't correct, maybe the seal wasn't installed all the way. I lost a seal on a Vanagon from sand. I drove through some standing water on a sandy road on Cape Cod once, leaked about a quart every 5 minutes!

A leaking main seal can be caused by lots of things other than a pounded main bearing. As mentioned, the O-ring or maybe a leak around the outside are both possibilities.

Danny P,

My car has about 9100 miles on it. If you asked me 1-1/2 weeks ago it had had 8200. THe car is new, less than a year old... I drive this thing! I had the transmission seal as well as the main seal replaced. No leaking. I did have the shop check ot make sure the end play was within spec. I was told it was the transmission seal that was the problem. I am assuming it was either inferior parts, or inferior workmanship when the car was being built. Its fixed now.

Cool, glad to hear it all worked out. For $1.59, I would change the trans seal while I was in there for a clutch (or some motor mods like me).

Just to remind ya the pilot bushing in the gland nut is key in this repair.

That's what keeps the shaft true and from wearing out the seal.