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Hey guys, 

 

I am going to look at this 356 replica today.  The guy said it was built by CMC.  To me it seems like its a pretty good value, I have been looking on ebay and I have not seen one sell for under 19000..

Anything that I should look for?  Its also titled as a 57 porsche.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org.../cto/5321622295.html

Thanks in advance!

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$16000 is probably about right - especially at end of normal driving season (most places). Fuzzy engine picture so can't tell if it's even sealed.  Assume original gel coat finish.  "Vintage" CMC gauges aren't great - and way bigger than any replacements so dash has to be re-glassed.  Nice wheels.  Disc brakes? All leak a bit - but large stain on floor could indicate issues.  Ask for detailed build sheet on engine.  A 3.88 R&P trans is nice ($1k) - see if docs on trans too. CMC didn't build many themselves - vast majority are home built so quality varies greatly.  Go for it if it drives well.

Yup, that's essentially my car in red gel coat.

 

Not a lot of details to chew on...

 

Typical CMC interior trim and such and all of the usual CMC eccentricities.

 

Probably has a 2,105 or 2,110 Type 1, but a 2-liter type 4 would be a big bonus.

 

I would offer him $13,000 cash (no bank checks, real cash) to see if he takes it, or then meet somewhere in between, but $16K is in the ballpark for that CMC.

Al means that, when you look in the engine compartment, the engine tin sheet metal should seal the compartment off.  You should not be able to see the ground when looking in the engine compartment if all the tins and seals are in place.  

 

There are engine tin pieces and accompanying seals that effectively separate the upper engine in the engine compartment from the lower engine beneath the car, which has lots of exhaust heat.  Good tins help to keep the air cooled engine running cool, since it helps to keep the heat from the exhaust from entering the engine bay.

Last edited by Jim Kelly

Gordon's help is great.  Have a question though - I am still getting my mess in order and noticed I will have to do some more glass work.  My CMC package has the panels to be glassed into place and screw fastened to the body's frame around the engine.

Should I use these or use them for templates to make sheet metal ones above the

exhaust etc... Glass that close to the exhaust pipes makes me wonder??

Horrible low resolution "cell phone" picture of engine - but has alternator, dual carbs and oil breather (all encouraging signs).

 

It's local so go look at it - if you bought on say ebay you'd have cost of air flight ($500) to look at it plus hefty shipping costs ($2k).

 

I hate when someone questions price without even looking at it.  $16k might be a very fair price or if interior is shot, cracks in fiberglass and lots of oil leakage - it might be high.  If a super paint job it could be a smoking hot bargain.  

 

I'm trying to sell stuff from my abandoned condo clean out.  I put stuff on CL with lots of detailed pictures and a very reasonable "sell it now" price - and still get these "will you take 1/3 or 1/2 off?" This is without even looking at item!  I don't even respond or respond "NO".  I know that's CL mentality but makes trying to sell something there an ordeal. Get numerous "I'm out of town" but my secretary will cut a check with extra $50 and I don't have to even worry about shipping!  

Last edited by WOLFGANG
Originally Posted by Ed in Alaska:

Gordon's help is great.  Have a question though - I am still getting my mess in order and noticed I will have to do some more glass work.  My CMC package has the panels to be glassed into place and screw fastened to the body's frame around the engine.

Should I use these or use them for templates to make sheet metal ones above the

exhaust etc... Glass that close to the exhaust pipes makes me wonder??

The two in back when fiberglassed in strengthen the rear body portion (in addition to adding steel and bolts to fix butt sag). (Front splash shield do same for front). You could always add a bit of 1/16" aluminum with stand-offs to lower one if desired.  Depend on how close exhaust actually is - I'd think 3" is enough space for air flow.  

Why is it that the same air cooled engine in a spyder doesn't have, and doesn't need, engine tins as the speedster does?

 

I once asked a very savvy spyder owner that question...He answered "Gee, I don't know"

 

I guess (but have no verification) that an engine in the spyder is so open to the 'elements' that air flow alone evacuates any heat....If so. than why can't the engine tins in a speedster be eliminated to likewise expose the entire engine to airflow?   

In a Speedster you could, Carl, by removing the over the bellhousing breastplate and  opening up in front of the engine (or putting holes in the firewall). The aerodynamics of the back of the car push the spent cooling and exhaust air into the low pressure area of the engine compartment, so that's why we still need to seal it off over the exhaust.

Carl,

 

In my opinion, the open-ness of the Spyder engine configuration allows a LOT of air to flow around the engine, carrying heat away with it, out towards the rear.

 

The Speedster, on the other hand, is somewhat more inclosed (tighter to the engine confines, especially with that 'firewall' so close to the fan inlet), such that the engine fan sucks a lot of the engine heat from below the heads (exhaust heat) up into the fan inlet and then blows heated air onto the heads.  

 

I may be totally out to lunch with this opinion, but it makes sense to me.......

 

It also begs the question of what would happen if you opened up the firewall to allow gobs of air into the engine compartment?

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

    Thanks Al and Gordon,

Your explanations and rational theories makes sense...I won't lie awake tonight thinking about it.

 

    It's pretty obvious over the past few years (from my posted questions on SOC) that I know/understand diddly-squat about the mechanical functions of my speedster...and it's only the advice, tips, information, offered by SOC members that have sustained my enthusiasm...er, madness?

   

    Although my ignorance is embarrassing...my curiosity knows no shame...So:

 

    The air conditioning in my S10 and Saturn blows damn cold air...Since cooling the heads on a type1 is critical why can't an air conditioning unit be configured to nozzle cold air into the back of the fan shroud to be distributed to the heads?   

Yep, 16K for a running decent CMC is getting to be a very good price. 19k for a sorted one and 20k+ for new interior, paint, etc.  The prices of everything have gone up.  It's amazing that VW components are going for 30% more than 2-3 years ago.
-=theron
 
Originally Posted by Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Tremont, IL:

We all live in the past with pricing. 

 

Lane Anderson posted:

"I also think that the Speedster was designed for everyday driving, which includes sitting in traffic.  I think the Spyder was expected to be moving constantly - and usually quickly."

You've seen Piperato drive left of the double-yellow thing they paint on highways and streets, right? I'm not sure why they paint those striped lines myself, but I think it might be in a Spyder owner's manual to ignore the DoT's "suggestions," and keep on gettin' it.

Last edited by Cory Drake

Glad you're back Cory! Your knowledge and experience has been missed. We may not always agree with each other, but that's ok, as it's always beneficial to see how someone else has done it (or what they think). If we did there'd be no considering other possibilities, and we'd never learn and move forward...Al

And where Yoda comes up with these thoughts, know not I do!

Carl- re the idea of a small air conditioning unit cooling the engine- I've heard it suggested before, but never heard of it being tried. It would complicate things greatly, I think, and the argument (by people much more knowledgable than myself) was that it wasn't worth it (rather vague, I know) and it would create more problems than it would solve. Not much of an answer, but it's all I've got.

Last edited by ALB
Carl Berry CT. posted:

     The air conditioning in my S10 and Saturn blows damn cold air...Since cooling the heads on a type1 is critical why can't an air conditioning unit be configured to nozzle cold air into the back of the fan shroud to be distributed to the heads?   

Mechanical cooling (A/C) is not magic. It is removing heat from a place where it is not wanted, and rejecting it in a place where it is not objectionable. The process involved is actually quite complex. It's propensity to break has kept me gainfully employed and monetarily comfortable for 30+ years.

The short answer is: liquid is a much, much better way to accomplish head-cooling that what you are proposing. Water cooling involves only two heat transfers: from the head into the water, and from the water into the air. Nothing needs to change states, pressures, etc. No compressor is involved, no secondary cooling medium. All that is required is a pump and a radiator.

That being said, an air-cooled engine is even more simple than that: only one transfer, from the head into the air. If you want something tricky and cool, work on the oiling system to spray more oil into the rocker-boxes, and put a bohonkin' oil cooler on it.

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