My passenger-side header looks like it wants to break loose. How did the bolts come loose? I just tried open-ended wrenches from 10-13mm. Nothing is a good fit on that brass fitting. Suggestions for getting replacement nuts? The picture shows comparison of left and right side headers.
Thanks!
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Maybe it's not metric.
I tightened with a standard wrench. Is that side missing a header flange?
The double length brass nuts with the smaller wrench size (I've heard of them being 11mm I think?) are for larger tube headers, as 13mm wrench size nuts can a real bear to use with the 1 5/8 and 1 3/4" tubes. The nice thing about brass, of course, is that they don't rust to the exhaust studs.
Large Dachshund posted:I tightened with a standard wrench. Is that side missing a header flange?
If you are meaning an exhaust gasket-- yes, it looks like cylinder number 2 is missing one.
Why they loosen up has to do with the vibration and heat/cool cycles, in addition to having the weight of the exhaust hanging on them. It's just part of the game.
There are many kinds of reduced head nuts for the intake and exhaust. Some of them are metric, one is SAE head-size. The steel ones can be made even smaller than the brass to fit on large OD header tubes, but then you run the chance of them freezing on the stud. I apply liberal amounts of never-seize no matter what I'm using.
How about finding a thinner copper nut and double nut them--lots of nuts around here anyway. Probably the different expansion rates between the steel and brass is causing the brass to swell too much and then it loosens during vibration.
I've used the copper CB performance exhaust gaskets for years now. Them and brass exhaust nuts is all I've needed.
In the picture, it looks like it's possible your heater box/j-tube is a little too long. I don't know if you have flanges on everything or a slip fit somewhere. I had to trim almost an 1/8" off one J-tube to get my new exhaust to fit.
With the copper gaskets I've never had to tighten the nuts later, they stay where I put them. No never-seize needed on brass to steel. The copper gaskets are not compressible, unlike the fiber ones that look like they are disintegrating off your car.
Thanks for the insights! Now, I got an idea of my next steps. It's definitely part of the game. Lovin' every grocery store run!
Almost forgot: The copper exhaust gaskets are slotted where the bolts are, so you can put the whole thing together and then slide the gaskets on.
But they aren't from CB(oops!). Also brass nuts available here:
http://www.mtmfg.com/part/view...-replaceme?part=3388
You should be able to get your exhaust within about 1/16" of the heads(including the gaskets). A slight compression pf the exhaust to reach the heads is permissible, but too much and the exhaust will leak, it's a fine line.
I use the steel nuts on the intake, they work well there, but brass or copper on exhaust are a VERY smart move. Same set of brass nuts and I've pulled the engine 3 times, and just the exhaust a couple times more.
Cheers
Here's some things I learned. I got the exhaust flanges. To access the upper nuts, it's helpful to remove the rear tin in the engine bay. If you don't want to lose the nuts to the nearby heater box, stuff a rag in the opening to the heater box. The muffler pulls out quite easily, once the donut hinges are removed. I also applied spring tensioned washers that should keep the nuts in place
Yeah, removing the rear breast plate just makes everything that much easier. And lots of good little pointers! Oh, btw- there should be a small sheet metal piece attached to the bottom of the cylinder covers on both sides of the rear of the engine. They direct the air over the backs and down to the bottoms of the rear cylinders. They get left off a lot, and the engine will run without them, but they're there for a reason (VW wouldn't have put them on if they didn't do something). Maybe make it a thing to round the missing pieces up in the next little while?
A friend of mine sells these...
.51 each
Metric
8mm inside diameter
10 mm outside diameter hex
13mm Flange
1.25 Pitch
We also make them in stainless steel for an added cost.
You can use them in so many different places their breaking point is a 38 to 41 foot pounds before failure so they are pretty strong.
They were designed to be used for holding the exhaust flange due to running larger size exhaust we were unable to get the 13 mm nuts on there and be able to turn them.
Shipping is free USA no matter how many you get I also give discounts for large quantities.
@Bill Prout- Those sound really interesting- what are they made of?
ALB posted:@Bill Prout- Those sound really interesting- what are they made of?
Brass or SS if wanted.
@Large Dachshund (sorry, I've forgotten your first name?)- Here's some pics of the rear cylinder deflectors-
Some are a little different, depending on the year they're from, but with a little work almost any of the 1300/1500/1600 pieces will do. Good luck on your search. Al
PS- Thanks, @Bill Prout!
What does #5 attach to, #6? Pictures to small for me to see.
Bill Prout posted:What does #5 attach to, #6? Pictures to small for me to see.
5 attaches to the rear bottom edge of #1 (the cylinder cover) along the horizontal flange inside of the cutout for the exhaust port to the engine case . Don't have a pic right now; if I get time later I'll see if I can find one.
