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Loose Rear Drum

B bobsled
I was driving home today when I hear a metal scraping noise from the driver's side rear drum.
When I got home I put the car up on jack stands and wiggled the wheel to find that it moved side to side and felt really loose. I suspected the bearing retainer that holds the outer bearing in place was loose because this has happen before. It was actually the drum that was loose, but the cotter pin was still in place. I looked at the splines on the drum and a couple were broken towards the inside of the drum, but the axle splines were fine.
I tightened up the drum and inserted a new cotter pin, and the drum felt tight again.
I need to drive the car to work for the next couple of days to get to work. I plan on replacing the drums and brake shoes this weekend when I get a chance.
Anyone have any ideas on what might cause this? The car is based on a '67 swing axle.
1957 Vintage Speedsters(Flared Speedster)
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B bobsled
I was driving home today when I hear a metal scraping noise from the driver's side rear drum.
When I got home I put the car up on jack stands and wiggled the wheel to find that it moved side to side and felt really loose. I suspected the bearing retainer that holds the outer bearing in place was loose because this has happen before. It was actually the drum that was loose, but the cotter pin was still in place. I looked at the splines on the drum and a couple were broken towards the inside of the drum, but the axle splines were fine.
I tightened up the drum and inserted a new cotter pin, and the drum felt tight again.
I need to drive the car to work for the next couple of days to get to work. I plan on replacing the drums and brake shoes this weekend when I get a chance.
Anyone have any ideas on what might cause this? The car is based on a '67 swing axle.
coolrydecoolryde
There are many things that can cause this.

1) low quality or worn out drums

1A) drag style starts also wear out drums

2) axles nuts not torqued to 300 foot pounds

3) you should not drive the car. When the drum fails completely you won't be able to move, you'll lose all the gear oil, both sides of the rear wheel bearings will fail as will your trans. pull you will lose braking on the failed wheel when it gets covered in gear oil...

hope this helps
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
The 300 ft/lb of torque is the key. Takes a long pipe on a 3/4" Craftsman breaker bar plus brakes firmly set to tighten adequately. I've broken at least 1 or 2 breaker bars on them - hence Craftsman lifetime no question warrantied tool recommendation. I like that geared tool that multiplies torque too - just haven't found enought uses to justify purchase. Ha, I have the black metal 36mm beat on/off with a BFH tool - $6.
Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
Bob:

It should be fine, especially for the next couple of days, but try to get it good and tight (if not done so already). A 5' pipe over an 18" breaker bar, then use your weight down on the pipe such that your weight (whatever it is) is multiplied by the distance from the breaker bar socket. 150 lbs. at 24" from the socket is 300 ft lbs - you figure it out for your own weight, don't bounce on the pipe - just push til it stops.

good luck and happy holidays!

gordon
FM Former Member
Replace the axle end and hub. If (and I hope) its IRS .

It WILL come back, both have been compromised.

It will now wear out your brake shoes quickly because it not perfectly centered.

Been there done that.. You may have a while so start planning a upgrade or repair on your brakes. If your very lucky .You will only need a new hub.

Inspect the spline for wear..

Been doing some hard cornering haven't we!
FM Former Member
According to the manual, you are supposed to torque that axle nut to spec, then drive the car for "awhile", then re-torque the axle nut. Haynes manual says to do this twice.

And with a castle nut, if you are dead in between, do you apply more torque, or back the nut off a bit, to get the cotter key to line up?
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