Loose steering

Check the ball joints for tightness and if they're ok, go ahead and adjust the steering box per the instructions in a Bentley or Haynes manual.  Due to clearance issues, you may need to make a tool to get at the big hex depression on the front adjuster - I've used a piece of 3/4" flat stock bent into an "L" on the end as a make-shift wrench, and the humungo lock nut can be removed/held/tightened with an adjustable sink drain wrench from Lowe's or the depot.  If it is difficult to turn the wheel when sitting in your garage, get four el-cheapo vinyl floor tiles (the 12" kind) and put two, shiny side towards each other, under each wheel and they should turn pretty easily.

 

Even after you do everything, it'll never feel as "tight" as your 911's rack and pinion, mostly because of the recirculating ball steering box but also remember that there isn't a lot of weight in the front of the car and that makes it feel bouncy and loose.

I couldn't tell if it was my imagination, but after 3 seasons, my steering felt a little looser.  This past winter, Carey tightened it up at the steering box and it was a lot better when I picked it up.  He explained that a little out at the box translates to a lot out at the wheels.

I cut an access panel so that I can get to the steering box adjustment from the trunk.  Makes it easy to adjust/test drive/adjust/test drive.  I'll try to remember to take a picture.

Just for the record.  I checked with Carey and R&P won't work on a Beck.  I was trying to run my tab up for next winter :-)

With a '68 steering assembley, the first thing I would look at is the adjustment screw on the steering box....If it has fewer than 3 threads showing, the box is a total waste...

 

If the box has been replaced and you have issues, check the pitman arm to output shaft connection for tightness first thing....Throw a breaker bar with extension on the clamp bolt and lock it down. As little as a 1/4 turn on the clamp bolt can clear up "major" problems as quite a few of us know.    My .02..  

I did the same thing.

Also check the "rag joint" between the steering column shaft and the steering box.  OEM is made of rubber with nylon cloth reinforcement.  The rubber does crack over the years and rips apart.  There are red polyurethane replacement ones that re known to break in pieces - resulting in NO steering control.  You'll have to look in the driver's front forward wheel well to see it.

 

 

Thanks for the tips!

When I bought my Beck I had the same problem. What I found on was that there are two round bushings that absorb the play in the connection to the middle shaft. The shaft from the steering wheel is loose fitted into a middle shaft then to a third shaft connected to the steering box. Same design as the  buses. The bushings connecting the upper shaft to the middle shaft had worked loose and fallen out causing the play. The bushings are NLA from VW so I glued in a small section of 3/8" fuel line to act as a bushing. Problem solved. Your design might be different.

I bought a red style as above, and it started cracking in a year... I got scared, and put in the rubber one that has lasted 30 years + on cars.... more expensive is not always better... I adjusted my box until there was no more left. I put in a Borg Warner I think last year and it is really nice 6,000 miles later..

A good point, Lane, about the access panel. Larry Jowdy suggested that to me back in March when I was discussing my steering.

I put in a new steering box and rag joint, which made a huge improvement! The old one is shot. Thanks for the comments.

Remember the bit about the pitman arm clamp if it gets loose within the next year or two....