Loss of Clutch pressure after freeway driving - works perfectly around town

Old Master Cylinder?  You have a hydraulic clutch then?  Stock VW transaxle is a cable driven pedal to throw-out arm.

If you have a hydraulic clutch, you may need to rebleed the system or install a rebuild kit, similar to overhauling a brake m/c.  There is usually both top/bottom or master/slave cylinders.  If you rebuild one, may as well do both. 

If a long freeway runs causes the problem, and you have an hydraulic clutch, could the hose between the master and slave cylinders be passing too close to a heat source?  If you don't have a hydraulic clutch I got nuthin'.  I can't imagine a scenario that would cause this with a cable.

Every year, I have Carey bleed my clutch, just like the brakes.  I suspect that you have air in the line that is heating up and expanding on the freeway.  Try bleeding it first.

WOLFGANG posted:

Old Master Cylinder?  You have a hydraulic clutch then?  Stock VW transaxle is a cable driven pedal to throw-out arm.

Excuse my lack of Knowledge but I believe it is a hydraulic clutch.  I guess a picture of the master cylinder will help confirm that.  Stock vw transanxle.   I again plead ignorance on the pedal.  Will take a picture.

2275 motor Just built by Chico 100 miles not broken in yet.

Jim Kelly posted:

If you have a hydraulic clutch, you may need to rebleed the system or install a rebuild kit, similar to overhauling a brake m/c.  There is usually both top/bottom or master/slave cylinders.  If you rebuild one, may as well do both. 

Picture of Master cylinder

WOLFGANG posted:

Old Master Cylinder?  You have a hydraulic clutch then?  Stock VW transaxle is a cable driven pedal to throw-out arm.

Just added a picture below of Master cylinder

WOLFGANG posted:

Old Master Cylinder?  You have a hydraulic clutch then?  Stock VW transaxle is a cable driven pedal to throw-out arm.

Cable at the gear box end.

WOLFGANG posted:

Old Master Cylinder?  You have a hydraulic clutch then?  Stock VW transaxle is a cable driven pedal to throw-out arm.

So I guess I don't have a hydraulic clutch based on the pictire of the cable.

I still very new to the game and not mechanical adept.

Thank you for your comments.

If all the photographs are of the same car, It has a wierd transition from slave cylinder to cable connection, and I would look closely at that first......   I've never come across anything like that before....    

LeonChupp posted:

If all the photographs are of the same car, It has a wierd transition from slave cylinder to cable connection, and I would look closely at that first......   I've never come across anything like that before....    

Yes sir this is one and the same car.  Are there any other pictures I can take to help the conversation.  Thanks again for all your help.

Is the clutch arm bent/broken? Also check if your cable slipped through those clamps. 

Get someone to press the clutch in and out while you observe the cable/arm on the gearbox

LeonChupp posted:

If all the photographs are of the same car, It has a wierd transition from slave cylinder to cable connection, and I would look closely at that first......   I've never come across anything like that before....    

I thinks the front disc brake hose is the one visible.  a nother picture(s)

crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:

Is the clutch arm bent/broken? Also check if your cable slipped through those clamps. 

Get someone to press the clutch in and out while you observe the cable/arm on the gearbox

 

Seems like there is very little travel.   Video link below

https://youtu.be/iGDl-SojSa8

<a ref="https://youtu.be/iGDl-SojSa8">Clutch travel</a>

Thanks

This looks like a hydraulic clutch master cylinder but where do you fill and bleed it?  Is it behind the foil covering. Maybe it's something else?  The rear looks like conventional bowden tube and cable.  Confused.  What make is Speedster? 

I expected to see just this -

Pretty sure that's the brake master cylinder.

Good eye Gregg!

Ah, I missed what Gregg circled the first time.

Watchspeak posted:

crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:

Is the clutch arm bent/broken? Also check if your cable slipped through those clamps. 

Get someone to press the clutch in and out while you observe the cable/arm on the gearbox

 

Seems like there is very little travel.   Video link below

 

https://youtu.be/iGDl-SojSa8

<a ref="https://youtu.be/iGDl-SojSa8">Clutch travel</a>

 

Thanks

Someone look at the clutch lever action, is it my eyes or is it flexing?

In pic # 1, what is that gas filter looking orb, without hoses clamps?

Art, CMC, 1641cc posted:

In pic # 1, what is that gas filter looking orb, without hoses clamps?

It's clamped

https://youtu.be/iGDl-SojSa8

Plastic one in front by master cylinder doesn't have any hose clamps on it.  I really don't like those 59 cent plastic fuel filters as clamps seem to destroy them!

The OP's pan had the hydraulic clutch once, it doesn't now. He's using a cable set-up, rudely rigged at the transaxle end. And yes-- that arm is bent.

It looks like there's no clutch adjustment other than the size of the cable loop on the arm.

My first inclination would be to replace the arm and cable (with a properly shortened part), and adjust it properly. I'm guessing there's about an inch of actual clutch when cold, and none when hot.

WOLFGANG posted:

Plastic one in front by master cylinder doesn't have any hose clamps on it.  I really don't like those 59 cent plastic fuel filters as clamps seem to destroy them!

 

Yikes, I was looking at the wrong filter!

Best to get it fixed.

I think Stan is on to something.  That is a weird way to shorten the clutch cable looks like there is enough cable there for a proper adjustable  shortening kit.  

I would NOT use one of those clutch shortening kits shown above.  They suck to use, and they slip out of adjustment.  Instead, I would follow Stan's lead and do two things:  get a new, properly shortened clutch cable from Vintage Speedsters, and then have someone show you how to straighten the clutch actuator arm (it is severely bent, right now) and then assemble it correctly with the proper adjusting wing nut on the clutch cable end.

Otherwise, you will continue to have issues with that setup.

Here's my .02 taco.....$40 for a pre-shortened clutch cable is IMHO  bit bit nuts.             Get a $6.99 stock length Beetle cable, cut it 4" from the end and over lap it using three small U clamps ..it isn't going anywhere.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

The OP's pan had the hydraulic clutch once, it doesn't now. He's using a cable set-up, rudely rigged at the transaxle end. And yes-- that arm is bent.

It looks like there's no clutch adjustment other than the size of the cable loop on the arm.

My first inclination would be to replace the arm and cable (with a properly shortened part), and adjust it properly. I'm guessing there's about an inch of actual clutch when cold, and none when hot.

Thanks for the great support.

Will get a new arm and I am not sure if I need a new cable or proper fitting to adjust the cable?

Thank you very much for all your help.

I wouldn't use the shortener without clamping loose ends by swedging or the cable clamps. (And avoid those red poly engine mounts as in photo)

Gordon Nichols posted:

I would NOT use one of those clutch shortening kits shown above.  They suck to use, and they slip out of adjustment.  Instead, I would follow Stan's lead and do two things:  get a new, properly shortened clutch cable from Vintage Speedsters, and then have someone show you how to straighten the clutch actuator arm (it is severely bent, right now) and then assemble it correctly with the proper adjusting wing nut on the clutch cable end.

Otherwise, you will continue to have issues with that setup.

Thanks.  All comment noted new cable / new or straightened arm.  Proper installation.

Thanks again for all the help.

Bill

crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:

WOLFGANG posted:

Plastic one in front by master cylinder doesn't have any hose clamps on it.  I really don't like those 59 cent plastic fuel filters as clamps seem to destroy them!

 

Yikes, I was looking at the wrong filter!

Best to get it fixed.

 

Will get some hose claps on that baby.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

The OP's pan had the hydraulic clutch once, it doesn't now. He's using a cable set-up, rudely rigged at the transaxle end. And yes-- that arm is bent.

It looks like there's no clutch adjustment other than the size of the cable loop on the arm.

My first inclination would be to replace the arm and cable (with a properly shortened part), and adjust it properly. I'm guessing there's about an inch of actual clutch when cold, and none when hot.

Hi Stan

Based on your observation about the faulty arm and cable coincides well with my hot cold problems that I misdiagnosed thinking it was freeway vs city when it actuall cold and warm that is affecting my clutch performance.  So with a straigh arm and a correctly adjusted cable I should not see the hot / cold issue.

Thanks you again for my pestering responses.  Your help is greatly appreciated.

Bill

Watchspeak posted:

crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:

WOLFGANG posted:

Plastic one in front by master cylinder doesn't have any hose clamps on it.  I really don't like those 59 cent plastic fuel filters as clamps seem to destroy them!

 

Yikes, I was looking at the wrong filter!

Best to get it fixed.

 

Will get some hose claps on that baby.

Replace it with a NAPA Gold #3031 fuel filter first. It has a metal housing and overall it is a far superior filter. Pretty inexpensive too.

Watchspeak posted:

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

The OP's pan had the hydraulic clutch once, it doesn't now. He's using a cable set-up, rudely rigged at the transaxle end. And yes-- that arm is bent.

It looks like there's no clutch adjustment other than the size of the cable loop on the arm.

My first inclination would be to replace the arm and cable (with a properly shortened part), and adjust it properly. I'm guessing there's about an inch of actual clutch when cold, and none when hot.

Hi Stan

Based on your observation about the faulty arm and cable coincides well with my hot cold problems that I misdiagnosed thinking it was freeway vs city when it actuall cold and warm that is affecting my clutch performance.  So with a straigh arm and a correctly adjusted cable I should not see the hot / cold issue.

Thanks you again for my pestering responses.  Your help is greatly appreciated.

Bill

That is correct. With the ill fitting cable and the bent arm there is very little clutch now. When everything gets hot the already minuscule clutch travel is reduced and then you have almost no clutch.

Check this out - for a replacement arm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...detail.php?id=801962

WOLFGANG posted:

Check this out - for a replacement arm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...detail.php?id=801962

Looks like a good replacement.  I will have to look into it.  

I was going to pick this one up locally.

Either one will be better then the one you have.

crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:

Either one will be better then the one you have.

I really appreciate all the support.  I hope to post a few pictures to show the car.  I am a vintage watch collector and this project has been a very similar experience to how I approach watches 50/60's period.  I have been working to maintain a very vintage correct (to the original build) project as the car was built in the early 1970's and is not a part of any car build program and is a one off coach build.  No kit support at all hence some of the confusion on my behalf.

But I think the you gentlemen speedsters will approve.

Bill