Louvered deck lids?

I like the look of the louvers.  Porsche added dual rear grills on later 356's so they recognized that more air was needed in the engine compartment.

I'm big fan of a small Subaru engine running OEM ECU.

The 2110 would overall be a more reliable opinion in my humble opinion. It seems to be the point at which you get great performance and the best reliability. After that you’re putting more machine work in to the motor in places that start to decrease long term reliability. In other words I think the 2110 will outlive the 2332.

I like the louvered deck lid. Doubly so if you’re going with a more Outlaw style theme or look to the car. Bumper delete, wide 5’s without hubcaps, Marchal driving lights, leather hood straps, Crow seat belts, etc. But I have seen classic bodied cars with louvers and like them as well. I just like them better on Outlaw styled cars.

Congratulations on the car. Post photos throughout the process as we like photos. We have a few other AZ members that can help you out. @Cory McCloskey @PaulEllis and @IMDoug.

Welcome to SOC. I've just ordered a louvered deck lid, to add air flow and because they look cool. I am also switching to the bee hive tail lights. Do some research on them. Now is the time to get them if you like.  I am getting some fiberglass work done so I decided to go for it.

Corey, Doug and I are here in the valley so speed up when you're ready.

@VKannan posted:

Given those goals I’m trying to put together a build that maximizes reliability but is still a blast to drive, and given the price range these cars run the cost to achieve that isn’t a large concern. I’ve looked into the Subaru option but Matt the owner of VS thinks I should be wary of the availability of mechanics who will be willing to work on that engine, and thinks I should instead consider a very conservatively built air cooled 2110 or 2332 which he feels could be made just as reliable as the Subaru with EFI and a low compression ratio with overly solid internals. Considering he is offering a warranty and his shop is down the street from my house, I am leaning towards agreeing with him and going with a 2332 that will make no more than around 150hp.

First of all, welcome to the group. It's madness, I tell you!

What Matt said sounds suspiciously like he doesn't want to, or doesn't know how to do a Subaru. If you really end up wanting a Subaru-powered Speedster, there are a couple of manufacturers who do them, and do them well. Beck uses a factory ECU, so has a standard OBDII connection and shouldn't be a problem for ANY mechanic of worth.

Given your climate, a watercooled engine may be a better choice. But if you go aircooled, Robert's recommendation of a 2110 is a good one. A 2180(thick-wall 92s with 82 stroke) is another good choice.

Very true, mine is a 2180 and runs nice and cool.

If you go wide five wheels -- go for Vintage 190 alloy wheels.  They run about $193 each - vs probably $100 each for chrome steel wheels.

Thanks everyone for the replies, definitely helped me make up my mind.

@PaulEllis I will definitely reach out once I’m in town, we actually live in Switzerland right now but arrive in AZ in 8 weeks. We’re no strangers to the valley though, my son was born there.

Very happy to have found this group.

You need louvers back there...

@DannyP posted:

First of all, welcome to the group. It's madness, I tell you!

What Matt said sounds suspiciously like he doesn't want to, or doesn't know how to do a Subaru. If you really end up wanting a Subaru-powered Speedster, there are a couple of manufacturers who do them, and do them well. Beck uses a factory ECU, so has a standard OBDII connection and shouldn't be a problem for ANY mechanic of worth.

Given your climate, a watercooled engine may be a better choice. But if you go aircooled, Robert's recommendation of a 2110 is a good one. A 2180(thick-wall 92s with 82 stroke) is another good choice.

What Danny said here- I got the same vibe from what you said and agree with "What Matt said sounds suspiciously like he doesn't want to, or doesn't know how to do a Subaru".  Unless you're already mechanically inclined and really like tinkering (and almost constantly tinkering with a VW engine you will be!) or willing to take the time to learn, the ancient technology of an aircooled engine'd car may not be the best choice here.  As much as I hate to say it (and I am a lifelong aircooled guy who wouldn't think about any thing but a VW engine in my own Speedster), Subaru power is probably the way to go here, and you will be best off talking/dealing with someone who's already got the Subie install thing down pat.

I won't recommend anyone but I can tell you this- don't consider Steve L. in Tennessee- he hasn't built a car in years (as far as we can tell), there are guys that have been waiting 8? 9? years now and if you give him a deposit you will never see it again (or your promised car).  From what I've read he's gotten out of the Speedster building business and into deposit taking- far more lucrative and with no overhead.  JPS Motorsports in CA doesn't crank them out with any speed, either, and there are a substantial number of guys (who he did build cars for) who will tell you the transaction was less than stellar.

I'm sorry if this is not what you wanted to hear, but almost year we see 1 or 2 (or 3) cars for sale with very little mileage on them (compared to how long they've been built) that have spent more time sitting in the garage than being driven because the owner either doesn't have the mechanical skills OR can not find a mechanic locally that can take care of the car.  Mechanics with VW aircooled experience are not on every block any more.  When I called aircooled engines ancient technology I wasn't kidding- the first VW engine was designed and built in the early 1930's (not that long after the dawn of the Automotive Age) and really haven't changed that much since.

If any of this makes sense at all- consider the Subaru- the reality will come much closer to the dream- you know, jumping in whenever you feel like it and bombing around carefree all over the place in this cool, iconic shape with the wind in you hair _{(or rushing over your chrome dome, whatever the case may be)}.

Hope this helps.  Al

Thanks all for the replies. I really agree with what everyone is saying about water cooled being the right choice for me. I talked to Matt again and perhaps I misread him initially because he is actually perfectly willing and ready to build my car with a Subaru motor, so now I just have to take the plunge but I want to make sure I’ve adequately considered all builders before doing so.

Tough choice to weigh any perceived superiority in Internet forum reputation against having a real building down the street from where I will live, with people I can see and (pre-COVID) shake hands with who are offering a one year warranty so that I can make sure I iron out any kinks easily.

Will keep everyone updated on how this goes!

Well, I would venture that a trip to California would be warranted IMO, because of the closeness to you and then you could compare the build quality in the shop and of any of the finished builds to see if the level in your area is equivalent or whether the options and the build philosophy is compatible with YOU.  Keeping the should of, could of, or would of at bay is to be better informed.

My first replica was an IM fully loaded with ACooled, my last was built for me and I am still doing stuff to it to personalize it.  Still areas I would have like to try by driving other cars before I jump but I couldn't.  Living in California or near would expose you to many more cars to try, compare and help to make your wish list.  You won't get it right the first time and that is why the common advice here is to buy a good used one first to try it out then when you have tried it fully you can create your dream machine. Anyway, that is my 2 shekels.

Vintage motorcars in Hawaiian Gardens Ca is building me a Spyder right now with a Subaru engine and Subaru 5 sp transaxle. It will be IRS and IFS (non-Vw front axle). He's certainly one to check out by giving him a call..............Bruce.   Oh...Welcome too !!

From a daily driver and reliability standpoint Pat Downs will tell you to go with the 2110. I would also recommend to add the slim sump and the oil cooler that adds almost two quarts of oil.  It really helps with the cooling. I have a 1915 with the sump and oil cooler and have pulled Donner Summit in 95F weather without overheating at 75mph. My car carries almost 5 quarts of oil so it is really oil cooled in a sense like a 911.

I had a 2110cc for 5 years with no issues.