Lower rpm and smaller alternator pulley?

I think you're way over-thinking it, Ron.

Did you burn the plugs? Burn the oil? Did the car run like shlt?

Did you run the engine without the FI? Mess with the timing?

I think you bailed early. 

I found out today that the ground on my cooler fan was faulty, leading to intermittent operation resulting in heat spikes.

Yeah, that simple.

The short answer is, yes, the smaller pulley will make your fan run slightly faster and cool a bit better at lower rpms.  I really don't think that's your problem, but it will move more air.

Since your CHT's were within acceptable limits BUT your oil (hopefully measured with a Mainelybydesign dipstick thermometer) was consistently hot, I would look at what you're using for a "stock" cooling tower (inside of the fan shroud, whether all of the cooling vanes are installed and working  properly and replace your external cooler with one that others have had good luck with, since yours somehow isn't doing the job AND look at the oil supply side to the external cooler to make sure it's getting adequate flow (limited flow = limited cooling....same for air flow through the cooler(s)).  

For example, I have a bone-stock 1971 T-1 fan shroud and internal cooler and a DeRale 16-pass, fan assisted external cooler which keeps my 2,110 at 200-205 (on a dipstick thermometer) even at 4K rpm on 90 degree days for an hour or more at a time.  I wouldn't think a 2275 (which would work less and generate slightly less heat at that speed) would behave much differently, so with the same cooling set-up it should be in the same range. 

I've got a 9.8:1 compression 2332 with a DTM, Type 4 cooler on the stand, and a 96 plate EMPI cooler with Mocal sandwich bypass thermostat. I'm running a .89/3.88 fourth/ring & pinion. My fan ratio is stock (with the dry-sump, I'm running a BMD serpentine pulley set-up that keeps the stock ratio).

Oil temperatures never goes over 210 deg., head temps seldom hit 300 deg. It's possible to stay cool with a "hot" Type 1. It really is.

I'm leaving on a 5000 mile trip in my car this afternoon. Central Illinois to Yosemite and back, with some stops to see some friends along the way. I'll keep you posted.

Bon voyage, Stan, watch out for the mice in Yosemite, they're spreading something out there (saw this on last night's news).

Awsome Stan! Post some pics along the way.

I'm with Stan.....I wish literally, but at least in spirit on his trip.  You shouldn't have oil cooling problems with that engine, regardless of fuel delivery system, with a proper oil cooling system.  Either you're not getting enough oil flow, or not enough air flow through the cooler, or it just plain is not up to the task but it's gotta be something on the oil cooling side of the equation.  Things I would look at are (more or less in order):

1.  Is the case truly full-flowed or are you using an oil pump cover with an input/output cover?  Those don't flow as much oil out to the cooler (like, less than 50%)

2.  Is the original oil pump output plugged in the case?  Everything should be coming out of the pump cover port (which, hopefully, in your climate is a pressure-limiting cover from Berg), not flowing to the gallery from the original pump output and bypassing your external cooler.

For the external cooler:  

3.  Is it getting adequate oil flow?

4.  Is it getting adequate air flow?  There should be AT LEAST 1/2" between the cooling vanes and the surface it's mounted to.  3/4" is better.

5.  Is the fan pulling in the right direction?  It should be pulling from the mounted surface up through the cooler, not the other way around (and it's pretty easy to get it backwards).

6.  Is it up to the task?  Is it similar or the same as what other people are successfully running on their bigger engines?  Maybe Henry or Carey Hines could help with this, but there are a bunch of big engine folks on here who can let you know what they are running.

For the internal cooler: (which provides about 30%-40% of your oil cooling)

7.  If it's a stock cooler, are the air vanes installed and working?  They direct more air through the cooling tower area to compensate for the cooler air resistance.  If they are not there, #3 cylinder will be 30% hotter and your oil temp will rise 10-20 degrees.

8.  Is the airflow blocked by crud in the cooler vanes?

9.  Is the pressure relief valve (under the engine) working properly?  If it's kicking in too low, it'll bypass the internal cooler and you get bupka for cooling.  This can often happen when running 50 weight oil because it stays thicker on hot days forcing your oil pressure higher which might be enough to trip the pressure relief valve if it's set too low.

Oh!  And you asked about the fan flying apart on rpm excursions to 6,500 and beyond.  The only guys I would trust for a detonation-proof fan at that speed would be the Berg boys, period.

Gordon, thanks for taking the time to post a very thorough response.

Because my cylinder head temperatures are normal (usually under 300 degrees) I think my air flow is okay. 

I agree-something is not right with the oil cooling process.  When I got the car back, after the shop replaced a broken piston ring, I took her for a lengthy drive.  As I was driving I watched the oil temperature gauge continue to creep up.  When the gauge hit 240 degrees I stopped, let the engine cool down for a bit, and then headed for home.  I kept my speed down and was able to keep the gauge at around 220 degrees.  When I got home I checked my external oil cooler and found out the fan wasn't working.  The shop hadn't attached the fan's power wire when they reinstalled the engine.

Back then I thought my oil temperature gauge was accurate.  Now I know that 220 degrees was probably 250 and when my gauge hit 240 my temperature was probably around 270

The stock oil cooler and external cooler (with the fan not working) were definitely not up to the task of keeping the oil at an acceptable temperature.

Not sure where your oil cooler is located but how about a scoop and some piping to direct air directly to it?

Henry put the cooler in the driver's rear wheel well.  It sucked air up from underneath the engine and blew it up into the wheel well.  Made the fender seriously hot!

I'm thinking of a new location for the cooler.