lower the rear on swing axle

Switching to adjustable spring plates would allow you to dial in the height almost exactly at all four corners and then adjust it at any time you want with ease.

You can use adjustable spring plates to fine tune ride height (as Bob pointed out); just note that if the sidewall is close to the spring plate now, the extra width of the adjustable unit may interfere and they are substantially heavier so you're adding unneeded weight to the wrong end of the car. You can, by adjusting both inner and outer splines, get it a lot closer, but it is hit and miss, so you may end up doing the procedure more than once.

Hope this helps. Al

Al, I was hoping to bring the drivers rear down the 1/2 inch its up more then the three other wheels, I hope if I do just one spline on that corner it doesn't raise it too much, as I only "need" the half inch.

If you raise the LR a half inch, you'll lower the RF 1/2 inch or more. That's how it works.

Also, the rear spring rate is higher than the front, so 1/2 inch change in the rear may change the front more than that 1/2 inch.

The torsion bars have a different number of splines on the inside and the outside. If you only move one spline its about 9 degrees or so, that will be way to big of a change. There is actually a table on thesamba.com which will give you an idea how many splines inner and outer to give you the drop you want. But for the driverside it looks like the inner will have to move 2 counterclockwise and the outer will have to move 2 clockwise.  

By the way you may want to re-measure with a driver in place. 

Very good point Chris. I'll also add that it is really best to corner balance the car on 4 separate scale pads, and with the driver in place.

I've said this before and I'll say it again: The Porsche factory tolerance on 911 fender height is +/- 1/4 inch PER SIDE. So if the left is 1/4" high, and the right is 1/4" low, there is a half-inch difference side-to-side. And that's a factory car, we all have replicas that are not even close to the the factory body tolerances.

Going after fender height is a fool's game. It puts looks ahead of handling, braking, and acceleration. I'm more interested in how a car drives than how it looks parked. If it is properly aligned and corner balanced it will handle, brake, and accelerate better. It will also react the same to left/right steering corrections.

Good luck.

^^^What Chris said^^^; 1 outer spline will move things well over 1", possibly close to 2. You're going to have to play with the inner/outer splines (and as I said, probably more than once) to get it much closer. If you've never done it before, take heart in that you get good at it after awhile and it doesn't seem so daunting your 7th or 8th time. And as Danny said, changing 1 corner in the back affects the opposite in the front, so maybe it's close enough?

 And Danny's right as well about corner balancing _{(although he's still a poopiehead)}. If you're really interested in your car handling/performing as well as it can, corner balancing is essential.

I'm going to take the torsion bar apart and see how close I can get it, I'm crazy like that... and as far as "handling/accel/ and how it handles" after racing on the national jetski tour for many years, I know a little something about going fast, if I was really chasing after getting to the next corner first I guess I wouldn't be driving a replica, I really don't care what the P factory specs are, I see the difference and want it right..

@widebody boy- How did it go Darrell? Did you get it done?

widebody boy posted:

I'm going to take the torsion bar apart and see how close I can get it, I'm crazy like that... and as far as "handling/accel/ and how it handles" after racing on the national jetski tour for many years, I know a little something about going fast, if I was really chasing after getting to the next corner first I guess I wouldn't be driving a replica, I really don't care what the P factory specs are, I see the difference and want it right..

Ok, so you just want to cruise. I don't care what the P specs are either, but I'm telling you you have a replica which probably has fenders that are way off side-to-side. Important info, no?

To me, it isn't about getting to the next corner first, it's about making the car the best it can be for what it is.

Good luck in your pursuit of "looks".

it took the better part of the day and playing torsion bar take apart a couple of times, but between the inner and outer spline game the car now sits with all 4 fender lips the same and multiple measurements at the doorsills confirm its the same side to side, it can be done just need the can do attitude of a fool I guess to beat the "fools game" of getting it right ... after about 5 coats of clear the nardi is hanging in my paint stall , looks about as shiny as it gets, tomorrow the thing goes on and putting the horn button to use as it wasn't hooked up before. Previous owner used a little stand alone button under the dash, now if I could just get a deal on a carb 911 engine that would keep me and my buddies busy, would thrill me like my cobra replica used to ...