LOWERiNG THE IRS REAR ?

Yup.  Not too much room for clearancing the torsion bar cover, but just enough.

Everything you ever wanted to know about setting rear ride height on an IRS (or swing-arm) is in an article here:

https://www.speedsterowners.com...rear-ride-height--vw

I'll PM you with my cell phone # if you need any help.

Gordon

 One edit to the article - Where I tell you to lube the rear torsion bar donuts with talcum/Baby powder, DON'T DO IT!  

I've found using CV joint grease is a lot quieter.......

Gordon- Doesn't any type of grease degrade the stock rubber donuts?

Thanks Gordon ,, That's what I needed to know , "just enough room" , I use a spray silicone lubricant on the rubber biscuits when slammin' stock Dubs, never owned or lowered a Speedster and it does look tight . I promise to send Valentines cards this year , ' cause I care !   Thanks for your time Gordon and ALB ,  Lee

Gordon ,, I noticed you didn't disconnect the shocks or drop anything else but the spring plates , no emergency brake cables to be loosened ? or the brake line clip ? is that true ?  I've never tried it this way before , heck , Just leave the front half alone is how you did it ?  Lee

Sorry Gordon,  I should have read it more closely , at least twice , Ha Ha , you did remove the shock , but left the brake lines and cables alone ?

Been so busy I forgot , you left the axles connected also , and you're able to jack the suspension high enough ? Guess I've been doing it the hard way for years now !

Let's see......  Yup, yup and yup....

I only remove the shock because mine are pressurized and keep pushing the hub down - a PITA.  

The axle is connected to the hub on the diagonal arm.  Leave them there.  

Disconnect the hub from the spring plates (three bolts) and then the hub stays put or, if you're impatient, you can push it up slightly while lowering the spring plate (or plates - I have 2 per side) by using a floor jack and a 2 X 4 and then just put the hub on a raised jack stand to hold it up out of the way a bit.  

Remember to pry the spring plate off of the cast plate keeping it captive using a pry bar as you lower it.  If you try to pop it off after you've released support from the floor jack it'll slam down and try to take out your foot.  Slowly lower the plate/jack, pry it off the stop and keep lowering.  The plate will stop moving around 5 o'clock or so and be at rest.  The torsion bars are captive in the middle so you can do one side at a time and not affect the opposite side.

LeeConover posted:

Has anybody lowered their Speedster IRS rear ?  What I need to know is there enough clearance with the body for the torsion tubes when I pull the torsion bars out , to index them 2 notches up ?  I'm not removing them , need just enough room to disengage the splines , is there room ?    Thanks, Lee

2 splines, depending on whether you are talking the inners or outers is between a 4-1/3 and 4-3/4 inch drop. Are you sure you want to lower the rear that much?

Thanks ,  I usually raise the spring plate and slip a half dollar behind the plate so I don't have to pry , and use a chain , then I slowly lower them , I've never had double plates with over 45 VW's !!! I usually been air bagging them and getting rid of all the torsion stuff, and use custom Rail Buggy trailing arms.  wife talked me out of it on the Speedster !  I just don't have a lot of room for my big clumsy ass in there and don't want to bust up the fiberglass if something slips !  You Be The Man !!!  Thanks , Lee

Justin , Thanks I was going for 2 outside clicks , We have a saying around here

I can dig it. Just wanted to make sure since 9/10 times when I see someone mention dropping 2 splines, they're back the next day wondering how to get a lesser drop.

Re-read my article again.  Here's the table:

Table 1:

U = UP

D = Down

Inner  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -Outer  -  -  -  -  -  -Result (inches)

1D .  2.673 .  .  .  .  .  1U 2.426  .  .  .  .  .  . D  .244

2D  .  5.346  .  .  .  .  .  2U 4.852  .  .  .  .  .  . D  .488

3D  .  8.019  .  .  .  .  .  3U  7.278 .  .  .  .  .  . D  .741

4D  .  10.692  .  .  .  .  .4U  9,704   .  .  .  .  .  .D  .976

5D  .  13.365  .  .  .  .  5U  12.130  .  .  .  .  .  .D  1.235

6D  .  16.038  .  .  .  .  6U  14.556  .  .  .  .  .  .D  1.482

7D  .  18.711  .  .  .  .  7U  16.982  .  .  .  .  .  .D  1.729

8D  .  21.384  .  .  .  .  8U  19.408  .  .  .  .  .  .D  1.981

9D  .  24.057  .  .  .  .  9U  21.834  .  .  .  .  .  .D  2.223

10D  . 26.730  .  .  .  . 10U  24.260  .  .  .  .  .  D  2.470

11D  . 29.403  .  .  .  . 11U  26.686  .  .  .  .  .  D  2.717  

12D  . 32.076  .  .  .  . 12U  29.112  .  .  .  .  .  D  2.964

13D  . 34.749  .  .  .  . 13U  31.538  .  .  .  .  .  D  3.211

14D  . 37.422  .  .  .  .  14U 33.964  .  .  .  .  .  D  3.458

As Justin said; two splines on either inner of outer, all by themselves, move the ride height a LOT.   If you figure out what you need in quarter inch bits, then that's about what the above table gives you.

It can be a trial-and-error process, but if you take your time doing a proper set-up, you should be able to get where you want in one or two iterations.

Thanks Gordon , Most of the time it's 3 outside clicks on a straight axle Dub , I need at least 2 inches , front is down 3 now with the 135's and spindles , I lower everything, Grew up in So Cal , you ain't High unless on the Ground , I want to bag her so bad ! But I've already lost money on this car ! First and last Speedster, have two Split window Buses in the Quonset hut to do next , MONEY to do my final build , my 2300 VW powered 40 Ford truck Rat Rod