Do I need to replace my shocks with a shorter ones or I can still use the ones I have?(HD) Thanks in advance.
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Do I need to replace my shocks with a shorter ones or I can still use the ones I have?(HD) Thanks in advance.
We did that to JJ's car as per Gord's technical post (search for it here) and everything else was kept the same, shocks and all.
Lambros:
Unless you're lowering it down almost to the point where it's scraping the ground (NOT a good idea, as the lowest point back there may be the engine sump) then you can use the same shocks you've started with (stock VW Beetle Sedan).
Remember that you won't need heavy duty shocks on a Speedster, as they're so light that they ride very stiff with HD shocks. Use the cheapest, softest ones you can find. I'm running KYB's for a sedan, and they're not bad for ride.
My ride lowering write-up is in the Knowlege section under #214.
Gordon
Unless you're lowering it down almost to the point where it's scraping the ground (NOT a good idea, as the lowest point back there may be the engine sump) then you can use the same shocks you've started with (stock VW Beetle Sedan).
Remember that you won't need heavy duty shocks on a Speedster, as they're so light that they ride very stiff with HD shocks. Use the cheapest, softest ones you can find. I'm running KYB's for a sedan, and they're not bad for ride.
My ride lowering write-up is in the Knowlege section under #214.
Gordon
Stock shocks work as long as you are NOT lowering (or raising) more than about 1 1/2".
I'd give it a little more range than that.....
I've dropped mine 2-1/2" lower than the initial (stock) setting and with the sedan shocks I have in there it looks like I've still got 3" or more of shock travel left.
Remember that the car is lighter than what the torsion bars were designed for, so the overall frame travel up and down won't be as much as the original Beetle, so short shock travel is OK. I've never felt it bottom out on bumps or potholes or anything.
gn
I've dropped mine 2-1/2" lower than the initial (stock) setting and with the sedan shocks I have in there it looks like I've still got 3" or more of shock travel left.
Remember that the car is lighter than what the torsion bars were designed for, so the overall frame travel up and down won't be as much as the original Beetle, so short shock travel is OK. I've never felt it bottom out on bumps or potholes or anything.
gn
The resistans in shock is not constant. Is softer when the piston is in midle and gets harder going in or out. So you have to keep the piston in the center of its course. When you lower the car, piston goes down(in). So when you are driving and the wheel moves out the shocks resistans reduces until the centerpoint which after it starts to increase.
With the shorter shock the piston remains in centerpoint and the shock works as its planned.
JJ
With the shorter shock the piston remains in centerpoint and the shock works as its planned.
JJ
Thanks to all of you.
Janne: Good point.
A lot of the different shocks are "progressive" as you described it - they're "softer" in the middle and get "firmer" as it moves away from the center of the stroke. Monroe and Gabriel (among others) in the USA, and probably many others outside of North America do this.
Lambros: good luck with your lowering project. Do a search on "lowering" or "suspension" from last Summer (August, I think) for a more detailed discussion on lowering the rear. Let us know how it goes or if you need help, and be careful getting the spring plate off of the lower perch (a really big pry bar helps).
gn
A lot of the different shocks are "progressive" as you described it - they're "softer" in the middle and get "firmer" as it moves away from the center of the stroke. Monroe and Gabriel (among others) in the USA, and probably many others outside of North America do this.
Lambros: good luck with your lowering project. Do a search on "lowering" or "suspension" from last Summer (August, I think) for a more detailed discussion on lowering the rear. Let us know how it goes or if you need help, and be careful getting the spring plate off of the lower perch (a really big pry bar helps).
gn
Gord; a BEEFY PRY BAR is great, remember that!!!
As Ricardo can confirm, getting the torsion bar adjusting tool is money well spent. It helped us a lot! and its cost wont break your wallet, good luck - JJ