Had back wheel off at a brake shop and the threads for the lug bolt (that the bolt goes into) was stripped. they rethreaded and it was fine. I took back Wheel off today anD Once again it is stripped. the lug bolt has nothing to screw into...the lug bolt itself looks worn down a bunch which is strange because it was supposed to be new when they built the car? Is there a permanent fix or am I going to have to replace the whol 5 lug disc brake deal? I have the wide fives with drum skins.
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What about drilling the drums (oh, just read it again; it's discs) for studs?
Yes disc brakes with lug bolts.
I think you may be missing Al's advice (which I agree with), Todd.
You have bolts. You want studs with lug nuts. There's a right way, and a wrong way to get to studs. The wrong way is basically a glorified piece of all-thread that threads into the hub, and leaves you with a thread sticking out to put a nut on. Don't do that.
The right way is press studs in from the back. To do this, you need to have a shop take the brakes (all 4 of them) off, and drill the hubs out for studs, then press them in.
Do this, and they'll never strip again. Don't do it, and this one will not be your last.
Todd:
I knnow that Kirk buys his disc brake kits from So Cal Imports in Long Beach. You should be able to just get a replacement rear disc from Kirk. The pisser is that it will involve removing that rather highly-torqued axle nut, and your brake caliper. But Kirk should be able to ship it to you in advance to the switch out at your end would not result in the car being out of commission for long.
Yes, switching to studs ultimately is the way to go. But requires that all rotors be removed and the studs pressed in. They are expensive as well, not to mention the labor to install.
I can imagine how the wheel lug threads on the rotor hub would strip out. We've all had cars with the wheels on an off dozens of times, and as long as the lug nuts are not being over torqued, there are no stripped threads. I am always leary of using a pneumatic gun on my lug nuts for this reason. Thus always hand tighten with a socket wrench, then follow with the torquewrench, leaving the lug nuts at about 50 or 55 ft-lbs.
I would 1 either change rotor, 2, helicoil&use studs, 3, redrill&retap & use studs, 4, dont use bolts use studs & nuts, locktight the studs into the roters. I do not like press in studs unless you get some good grade 8 or higher racing studs, most all the ones sold over the counter are soft.you can however use a bolt through the rear so you can torque it to the rotor with locktight&it will not pull through.(with good threads, not for going into the stripd hole) then use lugnuts on the wheel side.