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Talk about luggage racks and attachment continued here.

I have a Reutter rack that I kept from when I had my '57 1600S 356 Coupe. It was chrome when I had it mounted on my previous metallic Silver VS. It is now powder-coated black to match my current black VS.

Here is how I attached this rack. Click on pics to enlarge.

1) Carriage bolts

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2) Nylon spacers

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3) Nylock nuts

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Assembled bolts, spacers & nuts on the rack as pictured below. I used a few nylon spacers I already had on hand, but you could cut your spacers for a more custom fit.

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I inserted the rack down into the air intake grill, marked where the bolts made contact with the tray, then drilled proper size hole. I used small fender washers on the top-side to spread the load. The rack is just making contact (resting) on the aluminum grill to further spread the load.

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Here is the view from the under-side...

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I used small sections of the nylon spacer, filed them to fit the contour of the engine lid in order to keep the bolts at a right angle to the rack (for better stability and lessen probability of cracking the fiberglass).

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Here is the rack attached to my VS...

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...and with my accessories...

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Hope you find this info useful! 

MusbJim - aka; El Guapo, the most guapo hombre in all of SoCal! 

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Last edited by MusbJim
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Cool thanks. I actually went back to the original decklid because the Carrera vented lid just did not fit quite right and it was chipping paint of the body. It ran a bit cooler with the Carrera lid because of the extra vents, but it should be ok still with the standard lid. Let me know when you post the pics or we can discuss it when we get together this weekend at your bro's house.

Like Jim, when installing my Reutter rack, in addition to using the large fender washers to spread the load around the fiberglass holes ...  I did add the fender washers to the top and bottom of the lid.  I also used rubber washers between the fender washer and the fiberglass to soften/damp some of the potential vibration/ push & pull from loads carried in the rack during stop & go.  

I figured the top mounted fender washers would spread the downward force on the fiberglass when the rack was loaded and car was stopped, but while in motion - acceleration and braking, the loads would be  up/out... so I decided also try putting washers on the inside of the lid.

not sure if it really does much... I was concerned I would overtighten the nuts and the washer sandwich specially thse mounted on contoured surfaces could do more harm than good...., but makes me feel better ;-) ).  It's been two summers of road trips with bags mounted on road trips, and after several inspections ( removal of rack for inspection).  I have found no cracks around the holes. 

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I did contour the fender washers to match the curves of the fiberglass area where they were mounted ( the best I could)...

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Cheers,

picture from fall 2015...  it's sunny today, I will try to take more pics while I'm out picking up the girls from school.  IMG_0938

Luis

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Nice job with the large washers and shock absorbing rubber washers.  Once fiberglass starts to crack it can quickly shatter and there goes your rack (and luggage)  on the road.  I suspect there is a lot of vibration even when it's empty - add to that down force with even empty luggage on it.  You can get stainless carriage bolts that have a nice rounded head that won't damage old luggage like a hex head bolt might.

WOLFGANG posted:

Nice job with the large washers and shock absorbing rubber washers.  Once fiberglass starts to crack it can quickly shatter and there goes your rack (and luggage)  on the road.  I suspect there is a lot of vibration even when it's empty - add to that down force with even empty luggage on it.  You can get stainless carriage bolts that have a nice rounded head (like Jim used) that won't damage old luggage like a hex head bolt might.

Elevator bolts are also pretty nice since they are completely flat on top:

https://www.boltdepot.com/Elev...less_steel_18-8.aspx

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