HOKAY! So it
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HOKAY! So it
Why not a turnkey engine from CB or is that too expensive? I would personally bite the bullet and get a whole new system with a 1915 or a 2110. If your ok with a little less performance you could even settle for a 1835 that wouldn't be too expensive. Then take the old engine and EBAY it off to help offset some of the expense. You may find that the individual parts taken off the old engine are worth a lot more then the entire package when selling on ebay.
Don't be sad about the engine problem...think of it as an excuse to tear it down and make it big. Talk to a bunch of shops to find the cost of a new engine. Mine was around 3500 for a 2110 done overkill. I didn't really need cromo rods ect. I'm sure ther'e's an inexpensive way out while making the engine bigger. My suggestion is at least a 2110 to deal with traffic.
J-P
J-P
Bill,
Remove the rocker arm asembly, spray the stuck valve with PB Blaster and tap the valve with a hard plastic or leather hammer to loosen it up. There is a LOT of tension on those springs and it ought to "pop" back up into the normal position pretty quickly and easily. It may have bent when the rocker slip over, but it might just be wedged a bit in the guide.
Worth a try.
If it springs back up, spray more PB Blaster in and around it and let it sit.
Why did the rocker slip? Check for the correct shims, make sure that one hasn't broken and fallen off the shaft and into the valve train, etc. Move the rockers side to side on the shafts. They should be firmly positioned so that they can't slide off of the top of the valve. Check the rocker itself to see of the contact patch isn't galled or worn badly.
The reason that the pushrod goes deeper into the head might be because the cam lobe is rotated. The push rods are in and out at different depths depending on the cam positioning. Pull the rod out and roll it on a piece of glass to check for trueness.
If everything seems OK put it back together. and try it out. If anything is bust, replace or repair.
I've had rockers slip when the spacers break and all has gone back together and the engines have run fine after. Check all of this out first before you spend $$.
And don't let it idle too long. The temp can vary all over the board between idle and 2000 rpms, the changes can be abrupt and drastic but VW's seem to like this variation in temps. Idling it will hurt the engine. Even when highway driving, always vary your speed to change the rpm range.
Luck!
TC
Remove the rocker arm asembly, spray the stuck valve with PB Blaster and tap the valve with a hard plastic or leather hammer to loosen it up. There is a LOT of tension on those springs and it ought to "pop" back up into the normal position pretty quickly and easily. It may have bent when the rocker slip over, but it might just be wedged a bit in the guide.
Worth a try.
If it springs back up, spray more PB Blaster in and around it and let it sit.
Why did the rocker slip? Check for the correct shims, make sure that one hasn't broken and fallen off the shaft and into the valve train, etc. Move the rockers side to side on the shafts. They should be firmly positioned so that they can't slide off of the top of the valve. Check the rocker itself to see of the contact patch isn't galled or worn badly.
The reason that the pushrod goes deeper into the head might be because the cam lobe is rotated. The push rods are in and out at different depths depending on the cam positioning. Pull the rod out and roll it on a piece of glass to check for trueness.
If everything seems OK put it back together. and try it out. If anything is bust, replace or repair.
I've had rockers slip when the spacers break and all has gone back together and the engines have run fine after. Check all of this out first before you spend $$.
And don't let it idle too long. The temp can vary all over the board between idle and 2000 rpms, the changes can be abrupt and drastic but VW's seem to like this variation in temps. Idling it will hurt the engine. Even when highway driving, always vary your speed to change the rpm range.
Luck!
TC
Bill,
Team Evil (TC) is "Right On" with his observations. Some of us have had this experience and we all had the same feeling about "Which Way to Go" or get started to get the engine running again.
I've "Stuck Valves" by "Over-Reving" the engine in Autocross's and have had to go through the procedure of Inspecting the Rocker Arm Shaft, Arms and ultimately "Tapping the Valve" to reposition it.
If you are able to "Unstick" the Valve "Roll the engine Over" by hand and monitor the operation of the Push Rod and Rocker Arm. If they, as well as the Valve Assembly "Open & Close". I'd inspect the Push Rod like TC suggested on a "Flat Surface" for Straightness and inspect the Push Rod Tips for any sign of damage. If the Push Rod is Bent or ends damaged, get a new push rod.
If you start or find Damage parts, check Oil Screen or cut your filter apart and instect for metal in the oil.
If you have metal in the oil screen or filter metal has been circulating in the lubricating system and rod/main bearing damage is possible.
If no damage parts or metal is detected, fire the engine up and monitor operation. Remeber at Idle, there is roughly 4 Pounds Oil Pressure so until you observe engine operation, watch you Idle RPM.
From what you say, I don't think its that bad, only a stuck valve.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
Team Evil (TC) is "Right On" with his observations. Some of us have had this experience and we all had the same feeling about "Which Way to Go" or get started to get the engine running again.
I've "Stuck Valves" by "Over-Reving" the engine in Autocross's and have had to go through the procedure of Inspecting the Rocker Arm Shaft, Arms and ultimately "Tapping the Valve" to reposition it.
If you are able to "Unstick" the Valve "Roll the engine Over" by hand and monitor the operation of the Push Rod and Rocker Arm. If they, as well as the Valve Assembly "Open & Close". I'd inspect the Push Rod like TC suggested on a "Flat Surface" for Straightness and inspect the Push Rod Tips for any sign of damage. If the Push Rod is Bent or ends damaged, get a new push rod.
If you start or find Damage parts, check Oil Screen or cut your filter apart and instect for metal in the oil.
If you have metal in the oil screen or filter metal has been circulating in the lubricating system and rod/main bearing damage is possible.
If no damage parts or metal is detected, fire the engine up and monitor operation. Remeber at Idle, there is roughly 4 Pounds Oil Pressure so until you observe engine operation, watch you Idle RPM.
From what you say, I don't think its that bad, only a stuck valve.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
I
Bill,
You are describing several problems.
1. You can pull the Head and inspect it for Head/Valve Guide/Valve Damage. You could still have a damaged Intake Valve Lifter or Bad Intake Valve Lobe on the Cam. The Lifter/Cam problem would result to "Splitting" the case. The valve could of came in contact with the piston resulting in a bent valve.
2. You can "Bite the Bullet" and purchase a remanufactured Short Block and just get on with driving your Speedster.
Most of us enjoy Driving more then working on the Speedsters becase some of us have less time then money.
This is about all I can put in writting because of the many problems you have described. In view of "Cooler Problems, Valve Problems, Head Problems and possible internal Lifter/Cam Problems it maybe better to replace the engine.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
You are describing several problems.
1. You can pull the Head and inspect it for Head/Valve Guide/Valve Damage. You could still have a damaged Intake Valve Lifter or Bad Intake Valve Lobe on the Cam. The Lifter/Cam problem would result to "Splitting" the case. The valve could of came in contact with the piston resulting in a bent valve.
2. You can "Bite the Bullet" and purchase a remanufactured Short Block and just get on with driving your Speedster.
Most of us enjoy Driving more then working on the Speedsters becase some of us have less time then money.
This is about all I can put in writting because of the many problems you have described. In view of "Cooler Problems, Valve Problems, Head Problems and possible internal Lifter/Cam Problems it maybe better to replace the engine.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
Jack
There does seem to be a number of problems, but I think when I figure it out it will come back to one common denominator. I did get time to try tapping the stuck valve last night. It shows no interest in moving. Will pull the head and oil screen soon as time permits and evaluate from there. If it appears to be anything other than head damage it will be long block time. Good driving season is sneaking away.
Many thank to you, TC, JP, and steven for your advise. Will let you know what I find lurking inside it.
There does seem to be a number of problems, but I think when I figure it out it will come back to one common denominator. I did get time to try tapping the stuck valve last night. It shows no interest in moving. Will pull the head and oil screen soon as time permits and evaluate from there. If it appears to be anything other than head damage it will be long block time. Good driving season is sneaking away.
Many thank to you, TC, JP, and steven for your advise. Will let you know what I find lurking inside it.
Bill, quit messing around. It doesn't take that long to take the motor right down...split the case. I helped my builder take the motor completely apart (after he seized it on a test drive). Only took a couple of hours..tops. After it's apart you can decide what to do...fix it, or go with a new long block. Pushing this and poking that is just putting off the inevitable.
Ron
Ron
Bill,
If you are considering a "Pre-Luber", check out www.coleman racing.com
They offer the Accu-sump I described but they offer a motorized Actuator version to replace the manual "Ball Valve" model I have. The one I have is what some people utilize in SCCA Club Racing that don't have a "Dry Sump". With the Motorized Actuator, you simply apply power to the actuator via a switch and the actuator will open the valve and the Accu-sump will "Pressureize" the engine lubrication circuits.
This way you can install the assembly in a location "out of Sight" because its not necessary to manually open & close the valve. The Motorized Actuator will "Stroke the Valve Mechanism".
I considered installing the Motorized Actuator but personally tend to lean to "Old School" and have continued utilizing the Ball Valve.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
If you are considering a "Pre-Luber", check out www.coleman racing.com
They offer the Accu-sump I described but they offer a motorized Actuator version to replace the manual "Ball Valve" model I have. The one I have is what some people utilize in SCCA Club Racing that don't have a "Dry Sump". With the Motorized Actuator, you simply apply power to the actuator via a switch and the actuator will open the valve and the Accu-sump will "Pressureize" the engine lubrication circuits.
This way you can install the assembly in a location "out of Sight" because its not necessary to manually open & close the valve. The Motorized Actuator will "Stroke the Valve Mechanism".
I considered installing the Motorized Actuator but personally tend to lean to "Old School" and have continued utilizing the Ball Valve.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
Bill,
Give send me an Email at jblake@nesmw.com
I'd like to share some thoughts about your engine problem and discuss an engine I've been planning on building myself.
Thank you,
Jack Blake
Give send me an Email at jblake@nesmw.com
I'd like to share some thoughts about your engine problem and discuss an engine I've been planning on building myself.
Thank you,
Jack Blake