Machine work?

Anyone used Rimco for case clearancing for a stroker, 8 doweling, full flow, balancing etc etc? Or other machine shop on the Left coast? anyone on the East coast - easier for me if it's East coast - for this type of work? I had heard Rimco was under new management, so not sure if that's good or bad.
Doug

JPS used them for clearancing my T4. Took an 1800 case out to 2367. No problems in eight years. I've heard nothing but good things about them. They've been around forever.

been around forever is right....i dealt with them a lot in the early 70's when i owned a couple of Cal-look bugs and lived a few miles from their location on Dyer Road in Santa Ana....

I too have used RIMCO extensively, they do a great job. Also, KARTEK in Corona CA does an outstanding job as does FAT performance in Orange CA.

In the 70's I exclusively used them to machine cases and heads when I had a side line VW engien rebuilding business. At the same time, I was also building hot rod VW engines and RIMCO never failed me.

I haven't used them recently as KARTEK is closer but friends still use them with great success

It would be nice to get a current report on RIMCO after the ownership change.

What do you need done? Everything on the list or just some of the machining?

You can easily clearance your own case for the stroker, we do it all of the time and there's nothing at all to it. Just a lot of hand work.

You'll find good machine shops in and around Epping and Loudon New Hampshire who can do the eight dowels on your crank and flywheel, and possibly the full flow as well.

If you don't want to shop the case around, Bug City in Connecticut, can hook you up with a shop that's familiar with VW engines. We've gone through them for stuff before without a hitch. My buddy, Pete, is a friend of the owner, I could ask him to walk your case through the process for you.

Luck,

FP

Did I miss a turn here? Machine work an old case for stroker clearance, full flow, and probably bigger cylinders, shuffle pins, plus line bore, etc.?? What are you doing? You can buy a NEW aluminum case for only about $500 that will handle just about anything you can stuff in it.

Drilling dowel holes in a crank or flywheel?? If you have a stock crank and flywheel you don't need it. If you are thinking stroker (as in: the reason you are thinking of case clearancing) then every stroker crank is already drilled for 8 dowels when you get it. And, you will want a new flywheel (lightened) which also comes drilled for 8.

If you are refurbishing what you have, or simply adding something simple like full flow, then it makes sense to machine. But if you are stroking to the point of clearancing then you have the whole combo of case, cylinders, crank, heads, and valve train to think about.

For that matter, it might be way cheaper to get a stroker short block already made up to your specs or, one step further, go to a stroker long block and all you have to add are the peripherals and you're done.

Going that route might be a LOT cheaper than machining your own case, sourcing all your own parts and then attempting to get everything right as you assemble it, especially when most of the suppliers are on the opposite coast.

gn

I looked at Rimco's website tonight( www.rimcovw.com )and I do think the new alum case is the way to go simply from a price perspective...and it's "new". It doesn't take long for Rimco's various machine costs to quickly get over $600 for a big stoker for an original case. What I DID find interesting is the Rimco stroker major parts kit they sell: about $1,200 for new forged crank, rods, forged pistons w/cylinders..it's all BugPack (??)made. No cam and all the other parts, but pretty good price if the quality is there too. I also agree that I'll buy a new light flywheel and it'll come 8 doweled. Rimco also sells all the other parts to finish a stroker.
I like doing my own engines so I know what's involved and what's inside, and like the personal satisfaction of doing it myself.

On the other hand, CB's builder kits run $3,500 - $4,000 but are VERY complete ( minus carburation )and very high quality, so another option, and they can do the req'd machine work before they ship the kit. Yet for another $1,500, ( $5,500 total + shipping )I can get a full turnkey CB motor which almost makes the ultimate $ sense...and it'll be done totally right including dyno time before it leaves Pat's shop. choices...choices.
Doug

If you are on the East Coast you might try Keith's auto parts in WV. Vic has done my machine work for years. They are about the only shop on the East Coast that will Wedgemate a crank and flywheel as well. Great people. Should be able to google them.

Good Luck, Troy

Before you spend a dime or do anything at all, post your question overe with these guys:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/

BE specific and let them know what you're planning and what you end use is going to be.

We have an aluminum case 1914 based stroker in the drag car right now, it's been clearanced and tented for the crank and is sweet . . . however I've read that there are problems with some of the new cases being leakers, but I don't know, ours is older and seasoned. Again, ask the question of people who build and run and race the aluminum case based engines daily.

As a note to the others who have recommended that he run out and spend real coin for high end parts and machining rather than putting in his own (free) labor and time . . .
did anyone notice where he's from ? ! ? ! ?

He's obviously a cheap-assed Yankee of the first order. He's from Maine, for cryin' out loud. Has anyone ever been to a Maine VW show and seen what they cobble together
and then DRIVE ON PUBLIC ROADS?

Don't they make their own gasoline up there?


FP

No, they make ethanol from all those "Grown in Maine" Potatoes.....

Or maybe it's Vodka, I don't know.....

It's actually BOTH: potatoes & vodka...and of course snow, and a scenic coastline...but precious few aircooled VW's, and maybe less than ten speedster replicas! So that's why the SOG is so worthwhile as a source of info. I'm jealous of all the left coast owners in the heart of Speedster country that get to use your cars way more than me: I'm at least 3 months of down time / garage storage for the speedster, but it gives me time for Winter projects and upgrades. And you left coasters have all the builders, suppliers, vendors, and all the cool aircooled shops you could ask for, so play nice and share the knowledge 'cause we're all about keepin' our speedsters on the road and running to the best of our ability and looking for advice. There are some great websites out there, and this forum is one that's really helped me both purchase & maintain my car. Most on this forum are mechanically involved with their cars and do much of their own work, so it's a great group with a unique sense of humor...and usually at least one "prick"....
Doug