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So, I went to start my car after a month or so. Battery has been on a tender. It fired, but was struggling, then nothing. I tried many times, but no go.

I made sure fuel was available, it was. Pulled a plug, no spark. Checked at where the coil lead goes into the distributor, no spark. I check for power at the + tab on coil with key on, power is there. I try another Magnaspark coil, no spark. I try my old Bosch blue coil, no spark. I try another module, no spark.

I check the ohms on said coils. MS #1 1.2  and 14.3, MS #2 1.3 and 13.9, B Blue 3.3 and 8.4.

Is there a way to check the modules?

I checked the wires and they look good. In my travels I noticed a black wire going to the negative side of the coil, along with the tach wire, and a black coming from the dizzy. I followed this one black wire thinking it is a ground. I found the end under the dash and it was taped off. It was never in play from day one, but it was hooked up to the coil on the other end, even when I had the chinese 009 on it???  Should this one be connected to ground? I would think so....

Jus wondering...

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The attachment to this post is from the MagnaSpark user manual.  It shows +12 volts coming from the ignition to the + side of the coil, then a red wire from the coil + side to the disti, and one black wire from the Disti to the "-" side of the coil.  The tach signal wire also attaches to the "-" side of the coil, and that's it.  If you ground that un-connected black wire your spark will stop because the coil gets its' ground from the module inside of the disti.  It is possible that is a spare signal wire for the tach that was not used.  I would disconnect it from the coil end and let it float - You may need it for something someday.

In the disti, there is the red wire from the coil "+" to the "+" side (left end) of the module, a black wire from the coil to the "-" side (right end) module tab, and a second black wire from the module, with a ring tab on the end, that connects to the rightmost anchoring screw for the disti module.  That wire provides ground to run the module.  Make sure that the ring tab is not loose AT ALL when the screw is tightened down on the module.  If it is loose at all, especially if you've tried using a spare module, you may need to add small washers between the module and screw head to get it tight as there can be a difference in module thickness and the screws will bottom out in the disti housing before fully tightening against the module - not good.

Let me know how you make out.  

P.S.:  I know of no test for module health.  I thought of that when I was messing with mine, too.  They either work or they don't - There's no "sometimes" with them.  My first spare module was DOA but the replacement went in and worked fine and is still in there.  I ordered and received a third one as another spare but have never taken the time to install it to see if it works, nor do I know what's inside to figure out how to make a testing stand for it.

Attachments

Yeah, I looked over that manual backwards and forwards. That extra wire was confusing the crap out of me. It's been in play since day one, so I thought it was a ground. It's not surprising though, I've found a few wires that where dead ends. I'll just tape it down for now.

I ended up removing the distributor with the clamp connected, to make installing the module easier. Maybe I'll carefully reinstall each module and keep on testing, before I order a new one or a dozen.

What's up with the silicone grease that they want you to apply to the back of the module before mounting? Can a thin layer of grease be used instead?

Maybe I'll  install my china 009 to make sure the problem isn't elsewhere. I don't see how, these cars are so damn simple. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have it set up with it's own clamp already set at a specific timing, just in case.

A refurbished old Bosch unit is looking pretty good at the moment. Occasionally adjusting points isn't all that bad. It'll also work after an EMP or when the next major solar flare storm hits. I'll have all the mountain roads to myself. Bwhahahaha

Last edited by Carlos G

@Carlos G

"What's up with the silicone grease that they want you to apply to the back of the module before mounting? Can a thin layer of grease be used instead?"

That's spec'd to transfer heat from the module to the Disti housing.  The module is in an enclosed space so that's the only way to dissipate heat away from the module.  Dielectric silicone grease is a better transfer medium and higher electrical resistance than automotive grease.  If some came with a new module, use it.  If not, get some from your local auto parts store.  You can always use it on spark plugs to keep the boots from glueing themselves to the plugs over time.

Ignition is the Achilles' heel of the ACVW in 2024. The choices are:

  1. Spark scatter and jinky advance mechanisms
  2. Good advance mechanisms and terrible components (modules and coils)
  3. A science-fair project.

95% of the hobby chooses number 1. 4.9% choose number 2 after getting fed up with number 1. .01% choose number 3 and never have another issue.

You seem ready for number 3.

Last edited by Stan Galat

Suspecting the coil is a good point.  

I replaced my MagnaSpark coil with an NGK canister type for two reasons:

  1. The NGK has a higher (3 ohm) primary resistance (the MS coil is 1.1 ohm or so) so I'm hoping that will make the disti module last longer - So far the coil and module seem to like each other.
  2. I can get a new one from Amazon or even O'Reilly's/Autozone/etc. locally instead of ordering from CB Perf.
Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Carlos,

Maybe put some points in that old crappy 009 just to see if the car will run then.

I would take everything Magnaspark related apart and CLEAN it up with Scotchbrite or emery paper. Then put it back together with some kind of dielectric grease.

Use contact cleaner on all the plug-in contacts.

I have a sneaking feeling you've got some corrosion somewhere that is impeding conductivity. You know, cold weather and varying humidity and all.

The negative coil lead only goes to two places: the points eliminator/points and back to the dash to the tach signal input.

If all that fails, you could get crazy like me and do a crank trigger/coilpack. It really made the car run almost EFI-like.

I did a search and found the information about the coils being hard on the modules.

I'm going to get the China 009 up and running. Just because.

I'm also going to clean and attempt the MagnaSpark, with what I have, using the blue coil. I gots to know.     @Gordon Nichols Which NGK coil did you get?

Crank fire is on my list. Maybe I should move it up.    @Stan Galat and @DannyP What would be a recommended kit for this option?

What? Corrosion in a temperate rain forest? No Way.

It's not peer pressure, it's just my turn.

I might have you covered, Carlos. I have a Megajolt/EDIS/coilpack setup that I took OFF my car. I also have a Ford throttle position sensor and a bracket for it that fits IDF carbs.

You would just need a trigger wheel and VR sensor(contact Mario @thedubshop). He's got a neat hidden trigger that goes behind the crank pulley. I can help you with that. I might even be able to machine the backside of your existing pulley to fit the trigger wheel. I'm hoping you have an aluminum pulley, but you can change to one if not.

Carlos, I bought a NGK 48863, oil-filled, 3-ohm Primary resistance, and designed for electronic ignition systems.  Bought two, actually, one off of Amazon and a second from O’Reilly’s Auto Parts (long story).  It has the same high voltage tap as the MagnaSpark so the same coil to disti wire.  Don’t forget to order a mounting clamp with it unless you can re-use one you already have but it requires a different clamp than the Magnaspark.  

@Carlos G, as so eloquently stated in Star Wars:

"The Dark Side of the Force Is A Pathway To Many Abilities Some Consider To Be Unnatural.”

Become an apprentice to Danny and Stan. Only they can show you the true way to crank fire spark. From there, it is but a small step to the deliciousness of EFI.

Agreed. You, Michael, are the Dark Lord. I may be somewhere between a paduan and a master. Stan is at this time our apprentice.

In order for me to become a Sith master I think I have to kill you???

There are always two, a master and an apprentice according to the Star Wars universe. No third wheels.

Last edited by DannyP

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