Making Rubber Blocks

Google “making rubber.”  There are a lot of kits that are two part, mix and set. The last time I looked the company sold three hardnesses. The bad news was that it was about $80-$100, only came in gallon jugs (which was about ten times the quantity I needed.)

Ive also wondered if that flex seal stuff would work. The ad that shows them pulling it out of a box looks like it’s rubber. No idea it’s density, though.
https://www.flexsealproducts.c...-rubberized-coating/

PS: regarding the “underfoot” disclaimer. I suspect that might be lawyer speak for using it on floors or walkways because it’s likely very slippery when wet.

Here’s a company. You might want to call and see if they can recommend a product. Much more economical than the stuff I looked at.

https://specialtyresin.com/pro...VWDT3T0aAlVEEALw_wcB

Just put a couple treated 2x8’s to make a wall on either side and fill the ditch with 5/8 crushed rock. Keep some extra on hand to add when it settles. Once I t’s compacted it’ll be very stable and easy to change the level if needed.

Try looking at Stall mats for horse stalls, the rubber is quite hard and you could cut strips to fit, and they are usually 3/4 inch thick.   A few of them layered properly and fastened and you can raise the base by whatever you want.

Robert......Post a photo.  Maybe I could bandsaw a couple wood blocks to fit ?.....Bruce

@John Schneeman posted:

Just put a couple treated 2x8’s to make a wall on either side and fill the ditch with 5/8 crushed rock. Keep some extra on hand to add when it settles. Once I t’s compacted it’ll be very stable and easy to change the level if needed.

Crushed rock IN his trailer? I think not.

Robert, how wide is the gap? And what is the shape on the edges? Square or rounded?

Picture?

@dlearl476 posted:

Here’s a company. You might want to call and see if they can recommend a product. Much more economical than the stuff I looked at.

https://specialtyresin.com/pro...VWDT3T0aAlVEEALw_wcB

That looks pretty good.

@John Schneeman posted:

Just put a couple treated 2x8’s to make a wall on either side and fill the ditch with 5/8 crushed rock. Keep some extra on hand to add when it settles. Once I t’s compacted it’ll be very stable and easy to change the level if needed.

The valley is in the trailer itself John. The valleys are part of a movable trolley that comes out of the trailer. I've moved a few race cars and the splitters on the front end are only 2" off the ground and catch on parts of my trailer.

@IaM-Ray posted:

Try looking at Stall mats for horse stalls, the rubber is quite hard and you could cut strips to fit, and they are usually 3/4 inch thick.   A few of them layered properly and fastened and you can raise the base by whatever you want.

Funny you mention those. On my way home from the HD I went by Tractor supply to look at those but they were sold out. Still on the list though.

Can you just fill the valley with dimensional lumber? A ripped down 2x8 or whatever.

@Stan Galat posted:

Can you just fill the valley with dimensional lumber? A ripped down 2x8 or whatever.

I have for now. I ripped a piece of 3/4" plywood that fits exactly between two of the ribs that are in the valley. I was looking for something to fill the entire void and is softer than wood. While loading a Ferrari Challenge car, which also has a splitter in the front that sits about 2" off the ground, the plywood started to raise up as the wheel rolled over the edge of the wood and I don't want it to catch on any of the carbon fiber bits.

There's also a gap between the two trolleys and I did fashion up a length of plywood with some locking blocks to fill that gap. I want the car to go up and down as it's driven onto the trolly as little as possible. I'd like to make a removable rubber block for the valley where the tire ultimately rests. I'd only need it for the first trolly and it would be removed once the front tires are in their trolly without a block.

The top of the plywood is ALMOST level with the top of the trolleys. I would cap the open ends of the wheel rests and fill that level with rubber.

Hey Robert, if you had an L-shaped bolt in the middle of your plywood, could it be turned 90 degrees to lock into that middle gap? Then it couldn't jump up and snag any fancy body parts.

Then simply unlock and remove after the front axle goes over.

Take what you've made, replace the plywood with a piece of 1" thick stall mat and I think you're done.  The 2X4 blocks will locate it, the flexibility will keep it from tipping up when it's rolled over, and they should slide out of the way easily once the front tires are past them.  The stall mat is robust enough to run screws through and with some RTV between the 2X4's and mat it should all stay together well.  You could taper the cuts on the mat for extra style points (and even though that your rig is loaded with style points a few more couldn't hurt).

A question; could whatever you make be slid toward the center of the car for storage once the front tires are past them, then slid back into position for unloading?

Googled "Making rubber" and got redirected. On my way to HR. Thanks guys.

Is that like getting sent to the principal's office?

@JMM (Michael) posted:

A question; could whatever you make be slid toward the center of the car for storage once the front tires are past them, then slid back into position for unloading?

No. After the front wheels are locked into the front wheel recess the trolley's mechanical connection is removed and as the car is pulled into the trailer the rear trolley remains stationary until the rear wheels are in the rear recess. Once the rear wheels are strapped in another lock is disengaged and the entire trolley is pulled into the trailer.

Ah, I see.  I had a feeling there were too many moving parts for that to work.  It is the coolest enclosed tow rig I've ever seen.