Manifold Nuts

In my valve adj. instructions it says to torque the manifold nuts to 20lbs
I can't get a socket on the nut on the left side of either manifold, not enough clearance. I have tried thin wall socket, 6 point,12 point, if i try to grind a socket down the wall will be too thin. will a crows foot wrench work? what is the secret for this?.
Thanx.
Bruce

Bruce- What does your valve adjustment have in conjunction with the manifold nuts? Are you referring to exhaust manifold nuts or the intake manifold nuts? Kymco (Costa Mesa, CA) and most other VW shops now carry Brass nuts for either apllication. The intake is a 12mm size & the exhaust is a narrower 11mm size to allow more clearance around the manifold.

Bruce,

I have wrench I custom bent with a torch to get onto the intake nuts
The 20lb. is what I would call a recommendation , the manifold torque is not critical...as long as they are tightened down equally.
Your index finder wrapped around a wrench and pulled hard that is about 20# + -
Alan

That would be intake manifold

I use a Snap-On 1/4" drive "flex socket" and long extension. Sometimes a little clearancing of the manifold with a Dremel will solve any socket clearance problems.

I wouldn't use 20 ft. lbs. on intake manifold nuts; probably 12 ft. lbs. is enough, then tighten them again after a few hundred miles.

I use Chap-Stik on the cylinder head side of the intake manifold gaskets to keep them from sticking to the head casting.

My secret is to use the 12mm brass nuts they sell for the exhaust manifold. The regular nuts are 13mm and don't leave any clearance. The extra mm allows a socket to be used and they are self locking.

I'm using the 11mm nuts AND clearanced the manifold with a DREMEL to allow a socket to fit (LOVE those Dremels!). There's PLENTY of material there to allow removing some for socket clearance.

George: That Chapstick idea is pretty good, but doesn't it evaporate under heat and then allow the gasket to stick? I just put a little wheel-bearing grease on both sides and slap 'em on and they usually release OK later when removed.

Never have used a torque wrench on them - just used common sense and experience to hand-tighten them with a 1/4" drive socket (which won't give you too much torque, anyway).

gn

Gordon, Chap-Stik was recommended to me by Art Thraen (the Weber carb Guru). Seems to work very well.

I agree with Ben...12mm brass nuts.
Ron