Master cylinder

Adjust the rear drum brakes if you have them. Turn the star wheel untill the shoe just touches the drum on both sides. Then press hard on the pedal 2-3 times. Then back the shoes off untill the wheel turns with little or no contact from the shoes

Its not the master Ill bet the shoes are not adjusted correctly

First thing I would inspect is the pedal travel before it actually hits the Master cylinder piston you should have 1/8" free play. Then look at the entire brake system for a damp spot ( I've seen the brake line issue under the carpet along the tunnel)  all it takes is the smallest pinhole to introduce air into the system, then being sure the E brake is totally disengaged bleed brakes and see if the issue corrects itself. If it still remains than I would replace the Master cylinder .

Thank you gentlemen. 

On VW's the hard line going from the master to the rear (it runs along side of tunnel on drivers side) often rusts out.  But since you aren't loosing fluid, I doubt that is an issue.  I'd try bleeding the brakes.  If it comes up with a firm pedal but a few days later is limp again - then suspect master cylinder.

Yeah I have rear drums. That's next. 

I pulled back the carpet from the pedal area and noticed that the rubber grommet looked a bit deformed. I will check the free play.

Yeah Greg. That's what makes me think it's the master. I had the brakes gone through about 4 months a go and haven't driven it much. I drove it last week to a class in Santa Rosa Beach and that's when I noticed it.

I need to call you today about the MB stuff, etc.

id bleed the brakes, could be air in one of the lines, other than that just replace master cylinder,,believe U have to precharge the MC (prime it first)

Adjusted the rear drums. Made more difference than I expected. I'd had a new pads installed about 400 miles ago. They really need to be re-seated evidently!

Moving on the the pedal free play issue now. I still think there may be a bit too much.

There really isn't an easier job than adjusting the rear drum brakes on a 71 Beetle set up.

Thanks for the diagnostic analysis, gentlemen. 

Don't forget to bleed them while you're at it. Right rear first, then left rear, right front and then left front. 

I have seen this happen more times than I can remember. The brake shoes take a while to seat in and the pedal moves down as the process goes. Once there seated in, adjust them and the pedal will move back towards where it should be. I always hear guys say its the master cylinder, when there are no leaks or fluid loss. The same people blame the carbs for a running issue, when its a valve adjustment.

Morrel of the story, find the problem. Don't shoot the parts cannon at it hoping to fix it by replacing parts

Nobody arcs shoes to the current drum diameter any more so drum brakes always need a couple of adjustments fairly quickly while they 'wear in' after installing new shoes.

ALB posted:

Nobody arcs shoes to the current drum diameter any more so drum brakes always need a couple of adjustments fairly quickly while they 'wear in' after installing new shoes.

So I've learned. I do remember when it was standard practice to arc them, and I never really gave it a thought. I'll put another couple of hundred miles on the car and adjust again, unless I lose pedal.

Tab Tanner posted:

Morrel moral of the story, find the problem. Don't shoot the parts cannon at it hoping to fix it by replacing parts

Morrels are trees in Australia, mushrooms and a Benjamin Moore paint color. Morals, otoh, are a character building thing (I didn't say I had any, but I know about them). And you don't have to thank me- it's what I do

Anyone want to guess the current price of Morrel mushrooms? ( they grow here in West Virginia. 

LOL I made a spelling mistake, Im so sorry Im human. But I did identify the problem. Ill learn to spell and you can learn how brakes work. And how to be polite 

Im trying to help someone, and your being a smart A$$. Next time you have a thought like that LET IT GO

Tab Tanner posted:

LOL I made a spelling mistake, Im so sorry Im human. But I did identify the problem. Ill learn to spell and you can learn how brakes work. And how to be polite 

Tab Tanner posted:

Im trying to help someone, and your being a smart A$$. Next time you have a thought like that LET IT GO

I've obviously hit a nerve if it took 2 posts for you to cool down. We tend to poke each other here occasionally, Tab. It was meant in fun. I fully expect you'll rib me about something, sometime in the future. If I've truly offended you then I apologize. And if that's not enough maybe YOU NEED TO GROW A SET!

Have a great day!

PS- I can spell and I know how brakes work...

Two out of the three. Ill accept your apology . All the best

Tab Tanner posted:

Two out of the three. Ill accept your apology . All the best

Nobody's perfect...

You have a good day, Tab!

Lets crack open a beer at carlisle and be friends! Sorry I was short with you and had an edge in my posts. Are you planning on being there?

I hope so, and from one smart a$$ to another I would look forward to meeting you!!!!!!!!

Tab Tanner posted:

I hope so, and from one smart a$$ to another I would look forward to meeting you!!!!!!!!

I'm not sure yet, but if I do I'll buy the first beer!

ALB posted:

Tab Tanner posted:

I hope so, and from one smart a$$ to another I would look forward to meeting you!!!!!!!!

I'm not sure yet, but if I do I'll buy the first beer!

And drink all the rest!!

I was looking for mushrooms once but couldn't find any.  I was also cheating a little that day, as I had lost my morel compass.

There's an app for that.

Gotta be real careful with wild mushrooms.

Morel mushrooms grow wild here in West Virginia $300.00 lb.

Pulled the master cylinder yesterday. Looks like a small amount of leakage inside the boot that meets the actuating plunger attached to the pedal. No fun in 95 degree heat and high humidity. 

It is a Varga dual, 19mm bore. I'm looking at going German. Much more expensive, but highly touted. Same with the switches, OEM German.

JBugs has the comparable FTE  brand m/c for $109.95 and the switches for $15.95 apiece, free shipping (snail mail I'm pretty certain)

Aircooled .net is at $129.95, $19.95 each switch plus shipping costs.

CB Performance doesn't have the German made but wants $89.95 for the Varga and $10.95 for switches, not OEM plus shipping.

I am without a good workbench so I think I'll have a brake shop do the bench bleed.