Since getting my car
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Since getting my car
I'm sure you'll have plenty of takers for that, Mickey. We'll all get it figured out.
If you can get it to Carlisle there are a number of us that can help to figure it out ~ Glad to help. Alan
Sounds like carb sync to me. Sync at idle, then hold it at 3000, and sync again. Use the "snail" synchrometer. If you don't have one, we'll use mine at Carlisle. If the car is vibrating and wants to stall, it could also(probably) be a plugged idle jet. Happens often, unless your engine is in a clean room white lab coat environment.
If at full throttle everything is peachy, but when you cruise it is rough, it is either a plugged jet, bad sync, or maybe a misfire/ignition problem. Unless you are running out of gas. Mickey, electric or mechanical fuel pump? How new, what type of filter and where is the filter? CB crossbar linkage?
If you have a IR thermometer, point it at each exhaust pipe near the head when warmed up at idle. The low temp has the plugged jet. Or you can screw the idle mixture screws in one at a time, until you find the one that doesn't drop the rpms.
If at full throttle everything is peachy, but when you cruise it is rough, it is either a plugged jet, bad sync, or maybe a misfire/ignition problem. Unless you are running out of gas. Mickey, electric or mechanical fuel pump? How new, what type of filter and where is the filter? CB crossbar linkage?
If you have a IR thermometer, point it at each exhaust pipe near the head when warmed up at idle. The low temp has the plugged jet. Or you can screw the idle mixture screws in one at a time, until you find the one that doesn't drop the rpms.
Sounds like a tech session, eh, Alan?
Thanks Guys! You're the best!!! I know I'm always in good hands here.
Danny,
The fuel pump is electric. The fuel filter is located up near the pump behind the back seat area. And the linkage, I assume, is CB being that Pat built the engine but I can't say for sure.
I may look at the carbs/jets before Carlisle if I have the time (very busy week this week), if not hopefully we can figure it out there.
I'll try the IR Thermo as well.
Thanks again.
Danny,
The fuel pump is electric. The fuel filter is located up near the pump behind the back seat area. And the linkage, I assume, is CB being that Pat built the engine but I can't say for sure.
I may look at the carbs/jets before Carlisle if I have the time (very busy week this week), if not hopefully we can figure it out there.
I'll try the IR Thermo as well.
Thanks again.
When you get around to it, the pump should be up front by the tank. Put a pre-filter there, then the pump. The fuel should be pushed to the carbs, just MHO.
Probably not your immediate problem, though.
Probably not your immediate problem, though.
Yeah, most of those fuel pumps, especially the rotary kind, don't suck - they push instead, but as Danny says, that doesn't sound like your immediate problem.
While carb sync and/or clogged idle jets would be my first choice (especially at low rpm) I wouldn't rule out a missing fan blade or un-balanced fan, either.
The fan thing wouldn't cause rough running, though, just vibration (which is predictable and "feel-able" with your finger tips - it's different).
Get it to Carlisle - if we can't fix it we have a selection of big hammers.....
gn
While carb sync and/or clogged idle jets would be my first choice (especially at low rpm) I wouldn't rule out a missing fan blade or un-balanced fan, either.
The fan thing wouldn't cause rough running, though, just vibration (which is predictable and "feel-able" with your finger tips - it's different).
Get it to Carlisle - if we can't fix it we have a selection of big hammers.....
gn
I recently read "If you can't fix it with a hammer it's an electrical problem."
In my field, the "tool" of electricians (entertainment electricians: doing lighting for film, tv, theater, etc) is a crescent wrench (for clamping the lighting fixtures to structural pipes). Carpenters call our wrenches "electrician's hammers."
Your fuel filter good? Is there a pick-up screen in the tank?
I've always called 'em "Arkansas screwdrivers". Sorry, Jack ;-)
Mickey, I think a nice coat of orange will fix everything wrong with your car.
^^That right there's funny, I don't care who you are!
I like orange! ;)
You have to describe the vibration a LOT better . . .
Is it a steady vibration while driving?
Does the vibration vary in volume or severity to coincide with the RPM, or is it just steady after three grand?
Do you hear it as well as feel it? Or just the one or the other?
If you feel the vibration while driving and put in the clutch in (leaving it in gear) does it diminish or disappear?
Where does the vibration seem to be coming from?
Need a LOT more info to determine the cause.
If the vibration is tied to engine speed and lessens at all when the clutch is depressed, don't drive the car ! ! ! It's a symptom of a lose flywheel or clutch pack, and it's already ruining your crank and/or flywheel. Lotta folks don't torque the gland nut tight enough or use a torque wrench to correctly tighten the pressure plate bolts.
Maybe? SURE HOPE NOT ! ! !
Post more info BEFORE you head off to Carlisle, you just might be driving the family truckster instead.
Just looking out for you, not trying to open up a debate here.
ForuM PrICk
Is it a steady vibration while driving?
Does the vibration vary in volume or severity to coincide with the RPM, or is it just steady after three grand?
Do you hear it as well as feel it? Or just the one or the other?
If you feel the vibration while driving and put in the clutch in (leaving it in gear) does it diminish or disappear?
Where does the vibration seem to be coming from?
Need a LOT more info to determine the cause.
If the vibration is tied to engine speed and lessens at all when the clutch is depressed, don't drive the car ! ! ! It's a symptom of a lose flywheel or clutch pack, and it's already ruining your crank and/or flywheel. Lotta folks don't torque the gland nut tight enough or use a torque wrench to correctly tighten the pressure plate bolts.
Maybe? SURE HOPE NOT ! ! !
Post more info BEFORE you head off to Carlisle, you just might be driving the family truckster instead.
Just looking out for you, not trying to open up a debate here.
ForuM PrICk
The vibration IS steady when driving. Not at "cruising" (below 2800 rpm) but when under load or acceleration you can feel it.
It does vary but ever so slightly. It's not any more noticeable or anything. I could just be picking up on the increase in revs, it's hard to say.
Do I hear it? Thats hard to say. There isn't a particular noise that acompanies it. That is to say that of course everything gets louder when the rpms go up.
If I put the clutch in while driving the rpms go down because the load is lifted as the engine isn't working to push the car anymore. So in that sense the vibration ceases. However, in neutral or in gear with the clutch in, if I rev up to 3K rpm and higher I can feel the vibration.
The vibration seems to be coming from underneath. I say that because I had my friend sit in the car and rev it to 3K while I stood back with the engine lid off and I could't hear anything and the engine was shaking any.
Again, it could just be me. I'm very sensitive to my car(s) and I notice every little thing, This is a completely different engine, trans and exhaust than I had before. And I've done soooo many things to my car since last fall that it's hard to say how it should sound and feel. I'm not sure what the gland nut is or the pressure plate bolts are for that matter, but Pat Downs swore by the guy that built the trans and Pat has a great rep for quality. Could those things be something that we F'd up on the engine install?
It does vary but ever so slightly. It's not any more noticeable or anything. I could just be picking up on the increase in revs, it's hard to say.
Do I hear it? Thats hard to say. There isn't a particular noise that acompanies it. That is to say that of course everything gets louder when the rpms go up.
If I put the clutch in while driving the rpms go down because the load is lifted as the engine isn't working to push the car anymore. So in that sense the vibration ceases. However, in neutral or in gear with the clutch in, if I rev up to 3K rpm and higher I can feel the vibration.
The vibration seems to be coming from underneath. I say that because I had my friend sit in the car and rev it to 3K while I stood back with the engine lid off and I could't hear anything and the engine was shaking any.
Again, it could just be me. I'm very sensitive to my car(s) and I notice every little thing, This is a completely different engine, trans and exhaust than I had before. And I've done soooo many things to my car since last fall that it's hard to say how it should sound and feel. I'm not sure what the gland nut is or the pressure plate bolts are for that matter, but Pat Downs swore by the guy that built the trans and Pat has a great rep for quality. Could those things be something that we F'd up on the engine install?