Need some links or help with 12v LED bulbs. I already had thie CU layer guy come over because he lives not too far from me. The first Ones he brought over did not fit because it sat too far in the socket. He would need to make a custom piece which I gave him the green light to do but never heard back from him. So, I was hoping just to find some replacement LED bulbs that may work for now.
Someone needs to fabricate some glass lenses.
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I guess that car is too hot 
Marty,
I'm not sure if these will fit, but here you go:
http://www.revingtontr.com/pro...r-beehive-lens-glass (No product photos)
or these:
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/l...market-37h5531z.html
Amber ones are available too:
These are what Kirk uses. 
Marty -
These are the LEDs I use. I got them at Pep Boys. (most any auto parts/accessory store will have them (Auto Zone, Napa, etc.). They come 2/pkg for around $20.
You know me, I always look for the simplest and most inexpensive way to do my Speedster projects.
These are LED replacements for #1157 and #1156 (standard brake & tail light bulbs)
The bulb base for these LEDs as a little shorter than the incandescent bulbs they replace. So you can insert them but the LED base won't reach the contacts at the bottom of the bulb socket. Easy, fix; remove the bulb socket and tap the base (with a screw driver or any driver) toward the top of the socket maybe an 1/8th of an inch. The LED bulb base will now come in contact with the socket contacts.
These pictures were taken a couple of years ago when I converted to LED. These are 'white' LEDs. I've since switched to 'red' LEDs. The red LEDs give a deeper red light when you brake or run your lights. 
2 1/2 years with these LEDS and no problems with hot/melted lenses. 
Marty: I have had no issues with the CULayer lights in my car. I wonder why my lights fit, and yours didn't?
PS. Stay away from Jim's cheap solutions. After all, his first speedster only lasted 100,000 miles...
I was really surprised to hear that you didn't already have LEDs, Marty. I would've thought incandescent bulbs to be... too uncivilized for a man of your taste and refinement.
I echo Bob's sentiment, and also suggest that you not go with a $10 solution when a crazy-expensive part (not yet available) may be coming down the pipe. If you follow my lead, you can get a new lens for $50, then put an 1157 in the socket while you decide.
Eventually, after 20 or so hour of searching, you'll contact a guy at the Swedish space program, who will promise to make you what you want for $750. You'll agree and send him half to get him going, but he'll put you on the back burner for a couple of years, during which time you can melt and purchase 3 more lenses. Being Swedish, he'll take 6 months of vacation every year and retire the day after he turns 42 years old. He'll always be starting on the lights after he gets back from 6 weeks in Monaco. Once he retires without making your lights, you can buy Jim's $10 bulb. It won't work for you, of course, because $10 solutions only work for people like Jim-- the parts know who you are.
You can then put your 4th lens on with an 1157, and burn the car down next time it melts.
If you go Jim's route match the bulb color to the lens color. Red lens = red led, clear lens = white led, and amber lens = amber led. Otherwise the white led will washout the color the lens.
There were at least three different tables in the vendor area of Carlisle that had Jim's $10 Autozone bulbs for $5 each. I was tempted, but would probably feel better about getting them at Autozone or NAPA for $10 bucks (even though they're probably the exact, same bulbs). Can't beat that, and they have the upright, horizontal and combo versions (like Jim's).
I sent Troy PM to see if he knows if the base of Kirks Bulbs are long enough to touch the contacts. Otherwise Jim's fix is in order. Does anyone know how to remove my style lens? Henry explained once and I can't remember. Mine do not have screws. Grazie! Edit... it like Troys pick may be a Slyvania bulb.
You could get Manuel to do it, but I heard you fired him.
Seriously, get a flat screwdriver, and pry the chrome bezel ring out of the rubber body. The lens then comes out. The lens is only held in by the chrome ring, and the rubber body holds the ring in place. Easy peasy...
Bob: IM S6 posted:You could get Manuel to do it, but I heard you fired him.
Seriously, get a flat screwdriver, and pry the chrome bezel ring out of the rubber body. The lens then comes out. The lens is only held in by the chrome ring, and the rubber body holds the ring in place. Easy peasy...
Ah ha!
OK, so what holds the rubber body in?
It looks like its same design as the Lucas 594 lights used on '60's British sports cars where the rubber holds the chrome ring and lens (most of the OEM Lucas lens are glass). 3-4 screws hold the metal lamp base to car.
It's very similar to the Lucas lights as noted above. I had them on a number of my British sports cars.
The melted BeeHive fix...I 've been down this road more than once, you need the short glass 1157's used in motorcycle taillights by Drag Specialties http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-...p2057872.m2749.l2649
Alan Merklin posted:The melted BeeHive fix...I 've been down this road more than once, you need the short glass 1157's used in motorcycle taillights by Drag Specialties http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-...p2057872.m2749.l2649
^ and that, ladies and gentlemen is what separates the rest of us from the one and only Dr. Clock.
Joe: How about a shot of the front of your car?
Just wondering how the 'Carlisle' damage got repaired.
@Bob: IM S6 work is being done this week, should have it back next weekend.
This is a bit off-topic; however, for those who might find it interesting to know, here is an interesting article dealing with the history of beehive turn signal lights used by Porsche:
https://porsche356registry.org/article/233
I have 1157 replacement LEDs from superbrightled is all, but the "proper" bulb for the beehives is a low wattage version of the 1157. I'll have to ask Mike the part number because I forget...
Marty, why not class up the ride a little?
These lovely French Lalique crystal votive candle holders look like they're just the right size, and the floral pattern adds a certain je ne sais quoi.
Pop in a red LED bulb and Bob's your uncle.
By the way ALWAYS match your LED color to your lens color. It takes them MUCH brighter...
Sacto Mitch posted:
Marty, why not class up the ride a little?
These lovely French Lalique crystal votive candle holders look like they're just the right size, and the floral pattern adds a certain je ne sais quoi.
Pop in a red LED bulb and Bob's your uncle.
Mitchel, that's a little fru-fru, even for a fancy pants like me. But we can use those for Limoncello shots.
Proper bulb is a 1007, which is a small globe lower watt 1157
OK, I've been A-Searchin' on here and just keep gettin' more cornfused, so might as well jus' come out and ask it:
"What the hell LED bulbs should I be usin' for my teardrop tail lights?
Is it as simple as getting a pair each of 1156 and 1157 LED bulbs in Red?
My bulb configuration is;
Outer lamp: twin-filament, tail light and blinker and an 1157 fits both the base and within the lens and works right. The spec on an 1157 is 8.3/27 watts, double circuit BA15 base.
Inner: Single-filament, stop light only, and an 1156 fits base and within the lens, but the lamp in there now looks like a 1003 (smaller glass globe) but twice the wattage - same as an 1156 with the bigger globe. The size spec for a 1003 says that it is 1.75" tall, BA15 base, while the specs for an 1156 are 27 watt, BA15 single base and 2" tall.
I want to upgrade both the teardrops and my third stop light (But those bulbs are modern, glass-base bulbs for Chrysler - I'll find those separately).
So why am I asking this? Well, because when I pulled the bulbs from my Brazilian or Chinese, CMC tail lights, there is not a mark on them, other than "12V" stamped onto the bases. I even tried the old trick of breathing on them, then rubbing them on the nape hairs of my neck - Nothing. (Hey, it works on old radio tubes!)
Thanks in advance for any help! gn
Replace the 1157 with a sort globe bulb (The melted BeeHive fix...I 've been down this road more than once, you need the short glass 1157's used in motorcycle taillights by Drag Specialties http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-...p2057872.m2749.l2649
The single filament is 1 67 or 68 bulb
Alan, do you think those bulbs will fit in my type of beehive? My beehives have a deeper narrow socket. Thanks
Yes the bee hive light socket has a sleeve that can be adjusted for different debt....gently tap it in or out as needed.
I have used these LEDs with great results ( colormatch in Red for rear, yellow for front). Can't find anything lower profile than these.
https://revivalcycles.com/coll...ght-replacement-bulb
i can tak e some pics if anyone is interested in seeing side by side comparisons. ( I still have the superbright LEd model and the traditional filament bulbs in the garage.)
i originally replaced them because of the melted lens síndrome....
I'm sure someone mentioned it... ( but I have not read all the post, sorry if I'm repeating)... when installing LED bulbs in your blinkers, make sure to switch out your blinker relay for a model that acomodares the lower power draw. ( found at any local autozone/orelleys/NAPA store)
happy motoring!
The beehives that you guys are running? Are they glass or plastic? I have only been able to get a hold of the glass ones from Sierra and they are almost $70 a pop.
I have a box of the lucas ones and I'm looking at retrofitting a set to mimic the speedster ones as this will save me a heap.
Lenses will be glass though. I've found a local glass maker who has agreed to try and blow me a set. This should be fun. I plan on using the flat led lights (like above) as they're about 5w if my memory serves me right.
When using LED bulbs for the turn signals, do they blink too fast? I was told that you had to add a resistor to get them to flash at a normal speed.
I've been down the beehive road more than once, ...take my advice . The Drag Fast short glass is the fix, (see previous post) no messing with expensive glass lenses or trying to get the LEDS to flash with resistors etc.
You mean there are plastic/ cheaper beehives?
When I switched to LEDs there was no change in blink rate, so I didn't do anything to the flasher. Not sure which flasher Beck uses, but it seems fine. I'm at work now and don't have any info on what LEDs I used, but they are large LED arrays with a pigtail for the socket. I'll check when I get home this evening.
flatfourfan posted:You mean there are plastic/ cheaper beehives?
As far I I know all the repo stuff is plastic. Are you saying that Sierra Madre carries glass lenses? Mine are dark red, I see on their website they have a light red lens but it doesn't indicate that it's glass . Edit... they have a sale on the dark red ones like I have, but I think they are also plastic . http://www.sierramadrecollecti...-356A-T1-p19696.html
I ordered this one off Sierra and it's deff glass. It's also $67 for 1.
http://www.sierramadrecollecti...-356A-T1-p18242.html
Marty Grzynkowicz posted:flatfourfan posted:You mean there are plastic/ cheaper beehives?
As far I I know all the repo stuff is plastic. Are you saying that Sierra Madre carries glass lenses? Mine are dark red, I see on their website they have a light red lens but it doesn't indicate that it's glass . Edit... they have a sale on the dark red ones like I have, but I think they are also plastic . http://www.sierramadrecollecti...-356A-T1-p19696.html
I saw those this morning and noted that there is actually no mention if lenses are plastic or glass.
Lfepardo posted:I have used these LEDs with great results ( colormatch in Red for rear, yellow for front). Can't find anything lower profile than these.
https://revivalcycles.com/coll...ght-replacement-bulb
i can tak e some pics if anyone is interested in seeing side by side comparisons. ( I still have the superbright LEd model and the traditional filament bulbs in the garage.)
i originally replaced them because of the melted lens síndrome....
I'm sure someone mentioned it... ( but I have not read all the post, sorry if I'm repeating)... when installing LED bulbs in your blinkers, make sure to switch out your blinker relay for a model that acomodares the lower power draw. ( found at any local autozone/orelleys/NAPA store)
happy motoring!
Yes, also I would like too see the installed bulb with the lens removed.
