Bob
Did you install after the car was built? In other words can one install the eyeball suspension after it has been built?
The Manufacturers should by them in larger quantities, then sell them as an option and resell to current owners. Maybe drive price down some?
Kevin has those Medeola kits installed front and rear on his oval window VW. Pulls 1g in the turns. How fun would THAT be?!! Too much fun, I think!
Rob, the Eyeball front kit can be installed with the body on the pan. the Medeola kit can not.
Alan is right. Just how much do you want to invest in a replica. Let's see, all that money to go around corners faster. Cool, but now maybe we need to stop quicker. Porsche brakes maybe? Kevin told me they are working on Porsche spindles. OK, better, larger brakes. Ouch, I am running out of money and haven't even started yet.
Hello, guys
I have not been on here in some time.
Let me say this to help clear up some things.
First we at Mendeola have nothing againest Eyeball Engineering.
That said we did look at their kit and found it to be just a bolt on kit that could be installed with the body on with a little work. However to do this they had to make compramises in performance. Bruce did suceed in making a bolt on kit, which is what I think he set out to do. Yes it does ride and possibly handle better then a beam front end once the sway bar is installed.
Yes the stock rear IRS system will work with the eyebal front end because it is not performing as good as it could if it was built for performance and not just as a bolt on kit. Ours has to be installed with the body off and we have not compramised on any performance. If you do not want to pull your body and you are not interested in the best performance possible then the Eyeball is the only way to go. As for rear end kits, our front end will work with a stock swing axle rear end however we recomend our IRS rear kit over the stock IRS kit due to over steer issues. One other thing we can make our rear arms up to an 1 1/8 narrow perside then stock. This means you can fit more rear tire under the rear of your speedster. We are currently building a couple of chassis and have multiple chassis kits going out the door if any one wants to come down and see them in person.
Mendeola has made it's name on Performance and top shelf parts, and these kits are no exception. As for our brake kits we are actualy going to be making our own hubs that will allow you to install porsche brakes onto stock vw spindles. This is just another way to keep the cost to a minimum..... We also have a new 6 point Kafer / torque bar and sway bars for Speedster kits car on the market. Just a few of the things to come out of Mendeola this year.
Happy Motoring guys, the weather on the West coast is going to be great this weekend so drop your tops and have some fun.... :)
I have not been on here in some time.
Let me say this to help clear up some things.
First we at Mendeola have nothing againest Eyeball Engineering.
That said we did look at their kit and found it to be just a bolt on kit that could be installed with the body on with a little work. However to do this they had to make compramises in performance. Bruce did suceed in making a bolt on kit, which is what I think he set out to do. Yes it does ride and possibly handle better then a beam front end once the sway bar is installed.
Yes the stock rear IRS system will work with the eyebal front end because it is not performing as good as it could if it was built for performance and not just as a bolt on kit. Ours has to be installed with the body off and we have not compramised on any performance. If you do not want to pull your body and you are not interested in the best performance possible then the Eyeball is the only way to go. As for rear end kits, our front end will work with a stock swing axle rear end however we recomend our IRS rear kit over the stock IRS kit due to over steer issues. One other thing we can make our rear arms up to an 1 1/8 narrow perside then stock. This means you can fit more rear tire under the rear of your speedster. We are currently building a couple of chassis and have multiple chassis kits going out the door if any one wants to come down and see them in person.
Mendeola has made it's name on Performance and top shelf parts, and these kits are no exception. As for our brake kits we are actualy going to be making our own hubs that will allow you to install porsche brakes onto stock vw spindles. This is just another way to keep the cost to a minimum..... We also have a new 6 point Kafer / torque bar and sway bars for Speedster kits car on the market. Just a few of the things to come out of Mendeola this year.
Happy Motoring guys, the weather on the West coast is going to be great this weekend so drop your tops and have some fun.... :)
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"and possibly handle better than a beam front...." How do you know this? In your posts your "faintly demeaning praise" is nothing more than a thinly veiled attempt to demean Eyeball products. Conversely, Bruce or anyone on this end, to my knowledge, has employed these less than "stand-up" tactics in comparing these two products. Why not give it a rest. I have had no experience with your products nor you with Eyeball's. I'm sure your product is a good one. Bruce has not engaged in attempting to market his product in any way on this site, certainly not by offering mildly negative dispersions regarding you or Mendeolas products. Lets leave this to those who have used both, not just to one who has money in the game. In my opinion, this site is not the venue for sales pitches.
Bob and Luftig
Bob and Luftig
Kevin
Can you be more specific when you talk about not giving up any performance. What exactly does that mean? Bolted or welded? Other than the welded being perhaps stronger in the long run, what are the specific differences, not necessarily comparing to Eyeball or anyone else, just the technical end of why yours performs so well. You kind of did that when you mentioned the difference between standard IRS and yours, but nothing about the front end. If we had that information, we could make the choice ourselves. Also, do you have a site where we can go where you discuss your build with those specifics? There is very little explanation in your Samba add, just sales pitches. My prior question on this site asked if anyone had done the Mendeola thing yet. If anyone has, they haven't posted any information yet. Do you know of anyone that has installed your stuff on a Speedster? And, please explain further the hubs, spindles and Porsche brake system that is in the mill. I don't have a car that I will need to remove the body, I am thinking of starting from scratch, so this information is important to me.
Thanks, Warren
Can you be more specific when you talk about not giving up any performance. What exactly does that mean? Bolted or welded? Other than the welded being perhaps stronger in the long run, what are the specific differences, not necessarily comparing to Eyeball or anyone else, just the technical end of why yours performs so well. You kind of did that when you mentioned the difference between standard IRS and yours, but nothing about the front end. If we had that information, we could make the choice ourselves. Also, do you have a site where we can go where you discuss your build with those specifics? There is very little explanation in your Samba add, just sales pitches. My prior question on this site asked if anyone had done the Mendeola thing yet. If anyone has, they haven't posted any information yet. Do you know of anyone that has installed your stuff on a Speedster? And, please explain further the hubs, spindles and Porsche brake system that is in the mill. I don't have a car that I will need to remove the body, I am thinking of starting from scratch, so this information is important to me.
Thanks, Warren
and possibly handle better than a beam front...." How do you know this?...... I do not know if it will do better or worse having not tested it. However just by looking at the front end you can tell that certain angles and forces were not taken too seriously. Angles like "dive" and "acherman", forces like "center of gravity or CG" and "roll centers", not to mention geometries. I was not trying to demean Eyeballs products, only trying to make a comparison and point out both sides strong points.
Why not give it a rest. I will give it a rest when people stop asking questions about the difference. I am not trying to sell you or anyone else anything. Am I proud of our product, YES. Do I send people to Eyeball for front ends, YES (if they want to either install without taking the body off or like you they are not concerned about the best handling possible).
Again, I will say that we are not trying to put any product down and we are not trying to sell anyone anything, we are only trying to inform people about what is available for someone wanting to upgrade and getting ready to build a new car......
Why not give it a rest. I will give it a rest when people stop asking questions about the difference. I am not trying to sell you or anyone else anything. Am I proud of our product, YES. Do I send people to Eyeball for front ends, YES (if they want to either install without taking the body off or like you they are not concerned about the best handling possible).
Again, I will say that we are not trying to put any product down and we are not trying to sell anyone anything, we are only trying to inform people about what is available for someone wanting to upgrade and getting ready to build a new car......
Can you be more specific when you talk about not giving up any performance. What exactly does that mean?...this means that we have taken the design to the edge of street drivable performance, the only way to make it work any better is to get rid of the bushings and replace them with solid's, and to make everything out of lighter materials.
Bolted or welded? Other than the welded being perhaps stronger in the long run, what are the specific differences, not necessarily comparing to Eyeball or anyone else, just the technical end of why yours preforms so well.......We welded for two reasons. 1) we could not get all the angles needed if we did not weld on, as there is no way to get the rear of the lower arms in the correct place with out dropping them down and removing the triangle sheet metal that is part of the pan. 2) putting bolts in shear on a suspension part is a very bad idea, due to the shearing forces that are pressent over ever bump, and all the time durring accel or deccell....
You kind of did that when you mentioned the difference between standard IRS and yours, but nothing about the front end.......... Our front end out performes that stock IRS rear end because of all the traction or road holding it has. It creates what is refered to as over steer when used with a stock IRS rear end and driven to the limmit. Bassicaly the rear end is not able to corner as well as ours. This is due to the fact we also have changed the camber gain in the rear suspension, along with the amount of toe.
Also, do you have a site where we can go where you discuss your build with those specifics?.... I have a web guy that is fixxing our website.... If anyone has, they haven't posted any information yet.... We have quite a few kits being installed and a few being driven, I'll shoot some emails out to customers and see if I can get them to post some replies.
As far as brakes we are working on a couple of things for the brakes. As soon as I have some details that I can release I will post up here. If you want to know something sooner you would need to contact me in private..... So some real reasons you understand I hope.
Bolted or welded? Other than the welded being perhaps stronger in the long run, what are the specific differences, not necessarily comparing to Eyeball or anyone else, just the technical end of why yours preforms so well.......We welded for two reasons. 1) we could not get all the angles needed if we did not weld on, as there is no way to get the rear of the lower arms in the correct place with out dropping them down and removing the triangle sheet metal that is part of the pan. 2) putting bolts in shear on a suspension part is a very bad idea, due to the shearing forces that are pressent over ever bump, and all the time durring accel or deccell....
You kind of did that when you mentioned the difference between standard IRS and yours, but nothing about the front end.......... Our front end out performes that stock IRS rear end because of all the traction or road holding it has. It creates what is refered to as over steer when used with a stock IRS rear end and driven to the limmit. Bassicaly the rear end is not able to corner as well as ours. This is due to the fact we also have changed the camber gain in the rear suspension, along with the amount of toe.
Also, do you have a site where we can go where you discuss your build with those specifics?.... I have a web guy that is fixxing our website.... If anyone has, they haven't posted any information yet.... We have quite a few kits being installed and a few being driven, I'll shoot some emails out to customers and see if I can get them to post some replies.
As far as brakes we are working on a couple of things for the brakes. As soon as I have some details that I can release I will post up here. If you want to know something sooner you would need to contact me in private..... So some real reasons you understand I hope.
Short and simple:
Reconfigure your front end to be able to install it with a body on, reasonably priced and you'll have a winning combo that will sell.
Reconfigure your front end to be able to install it with a body on, reasonably priced and you'll have a winning combo that will sell.
Hey, Doc
See that the problem with our front end, because of the places we had to pu things to make them work propperly it is impossible to make it install with the body on. If someone wants to install one with the body on then the best part for that is the Eyeball. If they are serious about performance then they'll have to lift the body up to get ours under..... Somethings just have to be a certain way to make them work.... Sorry :(
See that the problem with our front end, because of the places we had to pu things to make them work propperly it is impossible to make it install with the body on. If someone wants to install one with the body on then the best part for that is the Eyeball. If they are serious about performance then they'll have to lift the body up to get ours under..... Somethings just have to be a certain way to make them work.... Sorry :(
Kevin,
I just got off the phone with The Handsome One In Afghanistan, and we again discussed this suspension. We're in for two. I'll probably place my order in August or September as that would put the timing about right for Steve to get home and build a couple of cars.
In our case, it is not relevant that the body must be off to install the suspension. Just not an issue as both the bodies need to come off to seal things up and fix the shitty workmanship by the previous so-called builder.
But if I may offer this suggestion, Kevin. I suspect that the body does not have to "come off" completely to be installed. I'll bet that maybe it could be installed by unfastening from the pan, and lifting it a few inches (with all that accompanies that adventure e.g. perhaps gas tank removal, etc). If that is possible, I suggest that you point that out. Most people can figure out how to lift the body a few inches up much easier and with greater safety, than they can figure out how to remove the body. Especially home-builders with small garages and now needing a BIG garage for the seperated chassis and body.
If that is possible, and it helps you sell a few more kits, you can take me to lunch the next time I'm down your way!
angela
I just got off the phone with The Handsome One In Afghanistan, and we again discussed this suspension. We're in for two. I'll probably place my order in August or September as that would put the timing about right for Steve to get home and build a couple of cars.
In our case, it is not relevant that the body must be off to install the suspension. Just not an issue as both the bodies need to come off to seal things up and fix the shitty workmanship by the previous so-called builder.
But if I may offer this suggestion, Kevin. I suspect that the body does not have to "come off" completely to be installed. I'll bet that maybe it could be installed by unfastening from the pan, and lifting it a few inches (with all that accompanies that adventure e.g. perhaps gas tank removal, etc). If that is possible, I suggest that you point that out. Most people can figure out how to lift the body a few inches up much easier and with greater safety, than they can figure out how to remove the body. Especially home-builders with small garages and now needing a BIG garage for the seperated chassis and body.
If that is possible, and it helps you sell a few more kits, you can take me to lunch the next time I'm down your way!
angela
Angela,
I do not need an excuse to take you out to lunch, I just have to make sure your hubby does'nt get the wrong idea and try to shoot something off...... OO
As for your suggestion, yes I thing it could be installed by lifting the front up a few inches and sliding it in. I just never thought about doing it that way because we (Mendeola) have two lifts and plenty of room.....
As for your kits, I'll make sure you are taken care of..... We are geeting real close on our brake kits...... ;)
I do not need an excuse to take you out to lunch, I just have to make sure your hubby does'nt get the wrong idea and try to shoot something off...... OO
As for your suggestion, yes I thing it could be installed by lifting the front up a few inches and sliding it in. I just never thought about doing it that way because we (Mendeola) have two lifts and plenty of room.....
As for your kits, I'll make sure you are taken care of..... We are geeting real close on our brake kits...... ;)
Angela-
IIRC, these speedsters were going to be Subaru powered? If so- you are building the cars of a lot of people's dreams. Be prepared for the onslaught. ;)
IIRC, these speedsters were going to be Subaru powered? If so- you are building the cars of a lot of people's dreams. Be prepared for the onslaught. ;)
Yes, Stan. They will be turbo-subie rear-engine, with a/c and heat, roll-up windows, Mendeola front suspension, 944 rear, 944 brakes at all four corners, and emissions compliant.
They will also be built with trailer hitches (as the engine will be in a sub-frame). Think small-light trailers like a little aluminum tear-drop.
Kevin - the option to lift the body a few inches and slide the suspension under is something that will appeal to home-builders. It's good info. We've pulled bodies off a couple of cars we've restored and it's MUCH easier to lift the body a few inches (and safer for our monkey selves) than it is to remove a body. We did remove the body from the 72 Blazer frame with a engine hoist and some very creative bracing but it was such a huge pain the ass compared to lifting the body a few inches (such as to replace body mounts or install a body lift on a 4x4) that the difference was night and day. For Mendeola, this option opens up the market a bit more.
angela
They will also be built with trailer hitches (as the engine will be in a sub-frame). Think small-light trailers like a little aluminum tear-drop.
Kevin - the option to lift the body a few inches and slide the suspension under is something that will appeal to home-builders. It's good info. We've pulled bodies off a couple of cars we've restored and it's MUCH easier to lift the body a few inches (and safer for our monkey selves) than it is to remove a body. We did remove the body from the 72 Blazer frame with a engine hoist and some very creative bracing but it was such a huge pain the ass compared to lifting the body a few inches (such as to replace body mounts or install a body lift on a 4x4) that the difference was night and day. For Mendeola, this option opens up the market a bit more.
angela