TC, step "6" is the developer which is actually like a canned powder.
http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair%20pdf%20files/Aluminum%20crack%20inspection%20and%20repair%20examples.pdf
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TC, step "6" is the developer which is actually like a canned powder.
http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair%20pdf%20files/Aluminum%20crack%20inspection%20and%20repair%20examples.pdf
http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair%20pdf%20files/Aluminum%20crack%20inspection%20and%20repair%20examples.pdf
The developer is an chalk type substance suspended in a alcohol solution. It aids not only in the wicking of the dye penetrant , it also gives a background contast. You do not want to perform the dye penetrant test on cold aluminum 40 F and below. This test works great as long as the test material is clean and you follow the instructions. If you spray the penetrant remover solvent directly on to the part after the dwell time of the penetrant dye you can wash out the dye out of any tight shallow crack like indications.
I been involved in the NDT inspection business for over 25 years. If you you need any info.... just ask.
I really don't like the crack stop technique. Before you try this you need to know if the crack was a casting flaw or if you have fatigue or stress cracks. If it's a fatigue or stress crack that technique won't work.
I been involved in the NDT inspection business for over 25 years. If you you need any info.... just ask.
I really don't like the crack stop technique. Before you try this you need to know if the crack was a casting flaw or if you have fatigue or stress cracks. If it's a fatigue or stress crack that technique won't work.
Joe, in the airline industry (where I am) we have whole departments that do nothing but.
xray, boro-scope inspection, all different types of ndt. In the past I've watched engine rebuilders (auto) weld up heads remachine etc...and have always marveled at their skill.
What I've seen less of (in my experience) is the stitching and crack repair. I used to follow
(and own) old english sports cars. They seem to do this type of work/repair more frequently
and tend to spend more time reworking the original parts vs replacement.
I envy their skills.
xray, boro-scope inspection, all different types of ndt. In the past I've watched engine rebuilders (auto) weld up heads remachine etc...and have always marveled at their skill.
What I've seen less of (in my experience) is the stitching and crack repair. I used to follow
(and own) old english sports cars. They seem to do this type of work/repair more frequently
and tend to spend more time reworking the original parts vs replacement.
I envy their skills.
I had a shop/friends test two "new to me" big valve/re-worked heads last year. They found hair lines between the valve seats on both heads. Anyone know if these can be successfully repaired? I've gotten LOTS of opinions ranging from, "Just throw a tig on 'em yourself." and, "Don't even bother with welding, peen the cracks over with a nail set." to, "I know a shop, but it'll COST you!"
Anyone with real experience, with a real recommendation on what to do after the cracks are located? These heads are sweet and open for 94's and done up right, but I'm afraid that the repairs might cost more than the replacement.
Thanks,
TC
Anyone with real experience, with a real recommendation on what to do after the cracks are located? These heads are sweet and open for 94's and done up right, but I'm afraid that the repairs might cost more than the replacement.
Thanks,
TC