Mexicrate Bit the Dust?

I believe the life of my mexicrate engine has come to an end, after just over 21,000 miles. The other night I fired up my trusty VS that has served as my only car for the past 2 years and I heard a loud, rhythmic clacking sound occurring about once every two revolutions. I immediately thought a valve came out of adjustment, but a valve check revealed they were fine. I also checked rocker arm side play - no such luck. With the help of a stethescope, I honed in on the exaust lifter on cylinder 1 as the source of the noise. I pulled the pushrod tube and stuck my finger in the case and looked around a bit and saw that a piece of the lifter sleeve had cracked off. I drained the oil hoping (okay, not really hoping) to find the piece that had fallen off but I had no luck.

Am I missing something or has my engine bit the dust? I've taken this opportunity to start thinking about a new engine completely - I figure at the very least I need a new case. I've always wanted a stroker and have been looking seriously at a Chico Performance engine. What do you all think? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I don't chime in often on this site, but I do a lot of lurking and I know you all have a lot of experience to share. Thanks!

If that's the case (no pun intended) the case is shot. I've read about machinists re-bushing the lifter bores; maybe that can be done. If you're pondering about getting a motor from Chico I think you're on the right track; they're a very reputable builder.

Time for a fresh long block from a reliable builder and bolt on your remaining accessories. ~Alan

I'm supplying a Chico-combo when I build my speedy next year. I've talked to the guys there and I'm going to use their 135hp dyno-tuned 1914 and prostreet tranny combo they sell on the Samba for $5900 outright. Has all the right bullet-proof parts. Good luck!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=132093

Just curious, what are the specs on your engine? Certain cam profiles, especially ones with steep ramps can beat hell out of the lifter bores, but the sleeves are usually just pounded not cracked.

Maybe another reason NOT to over-build Mexican supplied cases. Again, I'd just like to know what the internals are if you don't mind sharing.

As far as I know, my engine is a stock except for the larger cylinders. It is the 1915cc option that vintage sells with their speedsters. I didn't modify anything other than the exhaust and carburation.

Upon further inspection last night, I think I may have found a possible culprit. The exhaust pushrod tube for cylinder 1 had a small dent in it and the pushrod itself had a minor wear mark around where the dent was. When the pushrod tube got dented, the lifter sleeve could have been damaged too by the part of the tube that goes into the case. Is this possible or just a coincidence?

Just an opinion--- but I don't think a dent on a tube could transmit enough pressure to
damage the case.

The pushrod tubes don't go deep enough into the case to get near the lifter bores. The pressure on the pushrod itself is such that it usually stays in the lifter pocket, even if hit. Although they will bend being made from aluminum. Possibly the impact caused the pushrod to jump out of the lifter, the hardened tip/insert nicked the sleeve, then returned to the lifter pocket and the damage was done.

Maybe . . . all speculation, really.

Since there isn't anything special going on with your engine's internals, why not put in some super slippery oil additive and just use the engine up.

Of course, the Chico Performance engine DOES sound like a nice package. New magnesium case from Brazil, sweet heads, cam and straight cut gears. We're ALL howling for straights! Kinda like a mini Pete Jackson gear drive, you'll just LOVE straights in a VW engine ! ! ! ! !

If it's an option, go for a drop in stroker crank as well, you'll notice a HUGE difference over a stocker.

Here's what Chico and I discussed as far as a new longblock. Any "musts" that we missed?

2110cc Longblock

1.New mag case open to 90.5mm stroker and full flowed.
2.NEW 82mm Chevy journal forged crank.
3.Scat 5.325 H-Beams
4.120 Engle cam shaft
5.Norris racing lifters
6.Aluminum cam gear.
7.New 13 Lb flywheel.
8.Gene Berg racing chromoly gland nut torqued to 600 lb's
9.26mm oil pump modifed for full flow.
10.8mm chromoly heads studs made for chico performance only.
11.90.5mm mahale piston and cylinders with swiral clips
12.Heads 40 x 35.5 S.S valves with high rev springs with chico mini d.ports
13.Ratio rockers 1.25
14.3/8 chromoly pushrods
15.Stock German Valve covers or bolt on aluminum
16.Stainless steel push rod tubes.
17.44mm dual webers
18.1700 lbs kennedy stage 1 kit with dankin disc.
19.Compression ratio 8.25to1
20.Dynamically balanced and blue printed.

WHOA ! ! ! All you need now is my address so that you know where to send it on to when it arrives.

THAT'S a nice package ! ! Good for you.

Lemme know if you wanna sell the pistons/barrels and heads from your old mill. Always looking for nice mid-range used performance bits and pieces.

Nice motor specs but (there's always, the but) the aluminum cam gear is iffy ....just my .02 ~Alan

Hi Brad!
I'm just here to say that I was able to dump my mexicrate before it imploded. I replaced it with a bullet-proof CB Performance turn-key 2110. I was able to see it run on the dyno and it made a legitimate 140 HP.
Anyway, since the upgrade, my confidence level and road enjoyment have probably doubled!
Enjoy!

What should someone expect to pay for installing a new engine---maybe as described above? Thanks---Jack

Setting the motor in is easy and less than an hour.
Hooking up the add'l externals add another 1.5 hours tops, with another hour to set carbs etc.
Overall, four hours max at the prevailing labor rate in your area.

Make SURE that you have it installed by a shop or person that is familiar with VWs. If you can't manage this and use a generic repair shop, double check that the upper driver side bolt is in place and tightened when you get it home. While the engine is out a quick release bearing replacement wouldn't hurt. An after installation clutch adjust will probably be necessary.

There are a handful of VW specific pre-installation things that ought to be double checked as well.

Four hours sounds right what with the heater box cables, carbs and what not, see if you can score a flat rate.

Spend the money on the clutch alignment tool, too, if it's a do-it-yourself job. Cheap insurance.

To add to TC's list, if the motor has been in service for awhile, I would consider a transmission shaft seal.
On the motor, check the cam plug for weeping.
Replace the main seal being sure to confirm end play when putting the flywheel back on. These parts are cheap $4-$5 each and "you're there anyway".

All TERRIFIC suggestions, do what Alan said ! ! You'll be SO happy that you did.

To the best of my knowledge, the Mexican case, the Brazilian case and when they were made, the German case, were all AS-41 cases. Earlier Fuel Injection engines (no provisions for mechanical fuel pump) were AS-21 cases.

You guys with Mexican cases have nothing to fear, the case is worthy and provided it has been assembled correctly will last a long time.

AS-21 cases were sought after when they were available as the metal was harder aluminum than the AS-41 but since they are no longer available new, the AS-41 is the only VW engine case available.

Someone here said they were getting a magnesium case. VW hasn't made a mag case since 1951. Too many problems with those cases.

To the best of my knowledge, all new cases are made from aluminum.

Some companies such as SCAT make their own engine cases and they too are made from aluminum.

"To the best of my knowledge, all new cases are made from aluminum."


Here you go:

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECA0001&cartid=

Sorry, my reference was to VW cases. Ironically, in 1978, Porsche did away with Magnesium engine cases becasue they had so many problems with head studs pulling out of the case and bearing failures.

Brad:

Just to add to the clamor; Your engine specs are almost identical to my 2,110, the only exception being the 44 IDF Webers, where I have a pair of 40mm Dellortos. Still, when you compare the specs of the two carbs, those are almost identical, too.

Make sure that they drill and tap your case for full-flow oil filtering/cooling. You WILL need an external, fan-assisted cooler.

Ask them what they recommend for cooling tins, but insist on a complete set of GERMAN cooling tins, including a 1971 or later fan shroud with all of the air vanes installed and working, along with the bellows thermostat. Get the wider 1971-on cooling fan as well as the larger oil cooling tower. Do not accept Asian or Chinese reproductions of the cooling tins - they simply do not cool near as well. An additional 1-1/2 qt. deep oil sump wouldn't hurt, either.

Anyway, I've found my engine to be an absolute joy. PLENTY of mid-range grunt with lots of power coming on at just over 2K rpm, and with single, HD valve springs (Berg) it revs beyond 6,500, pulling strongly all the way up. I'm running MOFOCO 042 heads with the same valve sizes as you and the heads really start to flow nicely around 4K rpm (you can feel a definite surge come on). Both intake and exhaust runners have been ported, and I've match-ported the intake manifold runners (one afternoon with a Dremel or die-grinder).

I think you're gonna LOVE it!

gn

You will love it as long as the carbs are real Webers, not that HPMX junk!!!!!!!

Thanks for the responses, guys. Alan, I talked with Chico about the cam gear and I'm now going with a steel straight cut cam gear instead of aluminum.

As far as the cooling, I have a DTM shroud that I had bought and was waiting to put it on my busted engine. Never got the chance but I'm definetely going to use it on this new one. I hope that will be enough as far as cooling. If I need extra cooling down the line, I can go with an external cooler.

I've never heard an engine with straight cut cam gears but I understand it has a specific sound. Do you guys like the sound or not?

"Do you guys like the sound or not?"

Steel on steel straights . . . I LOVE the sound. Makes the engine sound like one out of a formula I car.

Oh, the new magnesuim cases coming out of Brazil are VW AS41 cases. The Chico engines are most likely based around those.

We've had some bad luck with the aluminum cases on the market cracking at the top right rear. The one currently being altered for us has had the top cut and tented to lessen the pressure, the lower section(s) fitted with tabs to support a windage tray and the right rear section gusseted to prevent cracking, let's hope that it all work out.

I mean it's cool to get to say that you have a proprietary aluminum case, but a sweet new magnesium AS41 is probably the right way to go, especially with a "built" crate motor.

So it took me long enough but I finally got a report about my new Chico Performance engine. The difference from the 1915cc supplied with my Vintage Speedster is night and day to say the least. The longblock arrived on schedule in November and I finally got around to installing it after the holidays. I have about 1000 miles on it so far and I feel like I have a new car. The DTM shroud fits perfectly in the VS engine bay and really keeps things cool. Aside from the first couple hundred miles, the highest oil temps I've seen have been around 220 on the hottest days here in Miami. I can't say enough about Chico and the product he puts out. I would encourage anyone looking for a new engine to seriously consider having him build you one. As you can see, I had to tuck the A/C compressor away for the time being until I get a bracket that works with the Weber carbs and linkage. But that's another project for another day!

VERY COOL! Glad to hear you're enjoying your investment in a bigger engine.

Brad,

I work with a small shop in Clearwater that makes a bracket for AC w/ dual Webers and the DTM. We use it all the time. Very nice quality stuff. Shoot me an e-mail if you're interested and I can put you bin touch w/ him.

Carey,

I really appreciate your participation here and the support you provide to the owners of non-Beck Speedsters.

Thanks!