Mexocan engine in my VS

Hello all--My Vintage Speedster was made this past March and has a Mexican engine in it. The piece holding the Alternator says "made in Brazil". I cannot find any engine code # or any identification anywhere on it. My question is----how do I set the timing on this engine? Is it most like a '74 AK, a '75 AJ or '76 on AJ? What German engine is it most like?

The crankcase pulley has orange paint dots ---there is a single dot on the pulley and 180 degrees opposite there is the same orange dot but with a second dot to the right that is 5/8" away.

To clarify--the single dots are painted on both the front as well as the back of the pulley on the outer edge (the top looking down). That second dot that is 5/8 away is painted just on the pulley edge that is towards the driver---the front. Would that second dot denote 5 degrees advance---or some other value?

I apologize for not putting this in the newbie area but thought I could get more help here.

So it's 3 questions:
1. Where is the Engine code on a Mexican engine?
2. Is that second dot showing advance?
3. How much advance---5%?

Many thanks!---Jack

GO WHERE??? GO WHERE???... the suspense is killing me....

The single dot is probably BDC(bottom dead center) The left dot of the two is probably TDC(top dead center). The TDC and BDC marks are used for setting the valve lash. As it sounds like you don't have a degree marked pulley, I guess your only recourse is to set the timing to the right dot. Not the best way to set it but should work. You need a pulley with the degree numerals around it to set it with distributor advance at 3000 rpm to 28'BTDC as a starting point.

Jack,your previous post regarding mexican engines answers most of the questions I believe however, there is no code. That case is a typical 1600cc VW engine case originally opened for 85.5mm pistons and a stock 69mm crankshaft.
Here's your old thread
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=12274


I can't stress enough about timing a VW engine. The FIRST thing you need to do is to purchase a degree pulley. Every vendor sells them and they are relatively simple to install. (Remove the fan belt, Remove the center nut in the existing pulley, slide the pulley off the nose of the crank and away from the key way and install the new pulley, fan belt and you're done.)

Timing your engine which probably has an 009 Bosch centrifugal distributor requires that the timing be set at full advance. In other words, rev the engine to around 2,500-3,000 RPM's and set the maximum advance at 28 degree's before top dead center.

You can go here for step by step instrucitons
http://www.spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8863

Sorry, I forgot to add the link, I edited the post and it's now there

The indents on a stock pulley are:

Big indent on outer lip is TDC.

Small notch on inner lip is either 5 degrees or 7 degrees before or after TDC, depending on the year of the engine.

This "chart" might help:

Specifications Through 1974
Type I Engine Code Letter Ignition Timing TDC
Aug. '60-July '65 D 10 degrees before
Aug. '65-July '65 F 7.5 degrees before
Aug. '66-July '69 H 7.5 degrees before
Aug. '69-July '70 B 0 degrees TDC
From Aug. '70 AE 5 degrees after*
From Aug. '71 AK 5 degrees after
From Oct. '72 AH 5 degrees after
From March '73 AM 5 degrees after
* (From April '73: 7.5 degrees; checked with vacuum hose off)
Type II Engine Code Letter Ignition Timing TDC
June '60-Dec. '62 D 10 degrees before
Jan. '63-July '65 G 10 degrees before
Aug. '65-July '67 H 7.5 degrees before
Aug. '67-July '70 B 0 degrees before
From Aug. '70 AE 5 degrees after
From Aug. '71 CB 5 degrees after*
From Aug. '72 CD 5 degrees after**
From Nov '73 AW 5 degrees after***
* (from Aug. '72: 10 degrees after)
** (autostick check: 900-1000rpm)
*** (automatic trans: 5 degrees after)
Type III Engine Code Letter Ignition Timing TDC
Through July '64 K 10 degrees before
Through July '65 R 10 degrees before
Aug.'65-July '67 T 7.5 degrees before
From Aug. '67 U 5 degrees before
From Aug. '71 X 5 degrees before

The engine code is usually found on the boss just below the generator/alternator stand. The base of the stand itself ought to have the firing order cast into it.

Best to use a degree pulley or a stick-on degree decal for timing, but a stock pulley will hold the belt better above 5,500 RPM.

Luck!

If it's a VS it should have an aftermarket degreed pulley. They put a little dab of paint on them to help with setting the timing (on Speedsters it's rather difficult to have a good look at the numbers on the pulley with the timing light due to limited space in the engine compartment). I believe the VS manual says to use all tune-up specs for a 1972 model; I believe the timing is set 7.5 degrees (can't remember if TDC or BDC).

Ricardo, his engine is a 1915cc and """probably""" has an 009 distributor. Using 7.5 degree's BTDC (before top dead center) would more than likely give him a total advance of 29.5 degree's at full centrifugal advance. (most 009's have about 22 degree's of centrifugal advance)

With today's crap gasoline, 28 is about the most advance I would want in my engine to prevent detonation.

If he set his timing at TDC, he would only have 22 degree's of advance and would be losing power and mileage.

by the way, when timing engines in customers Speedsters, I use a mirror to see the timing marks on the pulley or sometimes, I mark the outer edge of the pulley at 28 degree's using a Sharpie pen. (depends on if I can find my Sharpie or not) LOL

Great info and many thanks to all. What Larry posted is why I'm confused about which year to use. If I'm supposed to use 1972 specs then Larry's chart sayes to use 5 degrees after---not the 7 1/2 everyone talks about.

My goal in retiming this Mexican engine is to try to get it to run cooler. If 7 1/2 is the number----which direction would make it run cooler?

Also I'll be che4cking the valves too as they could be too tight.

Last note---wouldn't static timing show exactly when the #1 cylinder fires? Wouldn't that be the spot where the left dot of the two is located?---Jack, Hot Springs

Jack, I didn't post that chart.

THE IMPORTANT QUESTION

What kind of a distributor do you have. If it doesn't have a vacuum line then it's an 009 and none of those timimg marks means a thing. In fact, they can under a few conditions cause you some problems.

I suggested you read the link that I posted about how to time your engine. Don't, I repeat, don't do a static time of your engine. It is only to help get your car started when the distributor has been removed.

If you have an 009 then the engine must be timed when it's turning 2500 to 3000 RPM's and you set the 28 degree mark exactly at the 12:00 position and lock down the distributor.

This ensures that the maximum advance your timing will go to is 28 degree's before top dead center.

Larry--oops---sorry--TC posted that chart. I have no vacuum line to the distributor---I did pring oout your timing directions too and thanks very much for them! Many thanks---Jack

"If you have an 009 then the engine must be timed when it's turning 2500 to 3000 RPM's and you set the 28 degree mark exactly at the 12:00 position and lock down the distributor."

Thanks for the above info! Simple and easy ! ! ! I'm going to print that on a sticker for myself and put on the top of the fan shroud.

Thanks again,

TC