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Before I ask I have to say thank you to everyone on this site. I would be sooooo screwed if I did have this as a resource.

Todays subject is the Transmisson - had a new one built. 3:88 with welded 3rd & 4th gears, heavy duty, rhino case, blah, blah, blah... Anyway, all seems pretty good except a few things; It seems a little tight when shifting. I thought it was just a "settling in" thing but it hasn't gotten any better. It's especially tight going from second to third. I push to third, ease up, push again and then it goes into gear. Another is downshifting from third to second. I catch reverse every once in awhile - GRIND YIKES!!! I hate that sound. I have am empi trigger and I thought that wasn't supposed to happen with those. Do I need a reverse lock out plate in there? I never had any of these issues with the old trans. And finally, when I get on it and run up to fourth after I let off the throttle there is a rather loud rattle/vibration in the trans. Once the rpm's go down a bit it goes away. Did I screw something up with the linkage? Is the shifter not put in properly?
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Before I ask I have to say thank you to everyone on this site. I would be sooooo screwed if I did have this as a resource.

Todays subject is the Transmisson - had a new one built. 3:88 with welded 3rd & 4th gears, heavy duty, rhino case, blah, blah, blah... Anyway, all seems pretty good except a few things; It seems a little tight when shifting. I thought it was just a "settling in" thing but it hasn't gotten any better. It's especially tight going from second to third. I push to third, ease up, push again and then it goes into gear. Another is downshifting from third to second. I catch reverse every once in awhile - GRIND YIKES!!! I hate that sound. I have am empi trigger and I thought that wasn't supposed to happen with those. Do I need a reverse lock out plate in there? I never had any of these issues with the old trans. And finally, when I get on it and run up to fourth after I let off the throttle there is a rather loud rattle/vibration in the trans. Once the rpm's go down a bit it goes away. Did I screw something up with the linkage? Is the shifter not put in properly?
Bruce is certainly right about the clutch not disengaging. A few turns of the big wing nut might solve that. As for the reverse question - yes, you definitely need the lockout plate regardless of what kind of shifter you have. My CSP makes use of the stock plate for lockout, and adjustment is very important. In my case, we had to replace the lock-out pin in the shifter with one that was a couple of millimeters longer to make it work properly with the plate. Now it's like buttah. I will admit that the action is a little stiff, but it's very precise, and I never grind. I have a Rancho Pro-Street, and the stiffness may be characteristic of that transmission. Who built yours? The noises within the transmission are a bit troubling.
For years we've used ATF fluid in the T-5 transmissions that we stick into the TR8s and they run slick as snot. For the next Beetle platform project, I picked up a "built" pro-street transaxle and I'm going to try ATF in that as well. I'll let you know, might be the way to go.

For now, fill the trans with Castrol, or Purple.
Mickey,

When you push on the gear lever between 2nd/3rd you are spinning up the syncros so the gears speeds match. When they do it plops into gear. The same deal if you were to downshift without a clutch. You put slight pressure on the shifter, blip the throttle and it'll drop into gear. When you "grind" while going into reverse this shows that your trans is still "turning" and was not fully disconnected by the trans/clutch. If your clutch is adjusted properly and it still doesn't fully disengage they have had an issue with some suppliers
providing sub standard clutch discs that are actually thicker than
standard and "drags" when the clutch is engaged.
Good Luck.
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