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I've been drilling holes and carving up my Berg (GB 643) mid-mount in an effort to reduce some weight (it's really heavy and there's no need to add that to the car), but unfortunately I didn't have an accurate scale at the time so I'm not sure exactly how much weight I've removed (I think I'm approaching 2 lbs.) Does anyone have their mount off the car at the moment? I'd appreciate it greatly if you'd go to the trouble of weighing it; if you have the option, what it weighs in grams would be fantastic! If you don't have an accurate scale, any post office or courier place can weigh it.

FYI- it should weigh approx 2400 grams (over 5lbs) and I've got mine down to 1587 g (3 1/2lbs). It's a lot of holes! Thanks in advance. Al

PS- I would have been further ahead making it out of aluminum (would have weighed 2lbs or just under), but I already had it and wanted to see how far I could go. I'll be happy if I get another 4 oz. out of it. I'll post a pic later.

Here's the Berg unit- 

Berg mid-mount

"older Intermeccanica Speedster (still under wraps in the garage) a pic wouldn't show much,what with all the junk piled on it..."



On a lifelong mission (much to my wife's dismay) to prove that immaturity is forever!



"Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."- Colin Chapman

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  • Berg mid-mount
Last edited by ALB
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It's the "Holy Mount of Al", Gordon; afterall, we are on a first name basis And you are right, it has been a lot of work, but I've had the free time, and once you get started...

As for the holes (and there's a lot of holes in this thing!), the idea is to take material off without compromising the strength of the part. And that mount is way, way over-engineered. If you want to see what some VW guys do to lighten their cars- 

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,5293.0.html

It's 3/8", Richard (I think I told you that). Eventually I'll make it out of aluminum, but I just wanted to see how far I could take it. I've still got a little bit more to do, and hopefully I'll get another 4 oz. out of it, but we'll see-

Al's Holy Mount

 PS- Greg- Don't make them that big, so the hinges have to the look without taking too much away. Polish them up and they'll look really cool!

I can tell you 1 thing guys- all those holes in a row in the tube are so much easier to do on a milling table!

And another PS- There you go Gordon!

So- anybody got 1 they can weigh?

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  • Al's Holy Mount
Last edited by ALB
mtflyr posted:

Very cool and I know that sort of thing is not so easy to do.

Pete

Thanks mtflyr (got a first name?). I have a small, bench size drill press at home and was really hesitant to try the holes in the tube, but the milling table at a friend's shop makes it so do-able! It's great to have access to nice equipment. 

Sooo...- nobody has a Berg mid-mount they can weigh? If someone were to take it off their car I'd be eternally grateful (and of course I'd buy the first couple beers should we ever meet). Al

OMG AL...  Too many things to list to get it the way I want. Short list installed a Fibersteel made aluminum half tonneau, hand made Chris Runge aluminum seats, Ivory pull knobs and banjo steering wheel, light weight Odyssey PC680 battery and aluminum battery box tray, LED lights a 3rd LED brake light, a Blaze Cut fire suppression tube, anodized studs for all wheels, leather spare tire straps etc . etc...

Like you and most guys here the list keeps going. The same for my 356 but it's all fun yet sometimes a challenge. I recently tuned, adjusted pulled out and reinstalled both carbs from my 550 about 4 times chasing down issues until with help of friends got everything going great. Now I want to change the venturis, idle jets and air correction jets etc for better low end driving. It's the madness....

Pete 

I know what you mean, Pete, about you saying it's not as easy as you'd think. There's a lot of measuring and preparation (and more measuring, and double checking and then measuring again!) to make sure the holes go exactly where you want them. It takes 3, 4 (and sometimes way more) time to set up than it does to actually drill the stupid holes. I've been drilling, grinding, and filing transaxle parts off and on for 8 or 9 months in preparation for my Berg 5 going back together. And I haven't ruined any parts yet with holes in the wrong place (yeah, I just knocked on wood!). Lots of measuring...

Not counting the mount I've removed a little over 2 lbs from shift forks, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and reverse gears, reverse idler shaft,  clutch cross shaft and arm, and a couple other small parts. This all started because lightening 1st and 2nd gear makes shifting slightly easier- a guy in town with a Berg 5 in a turboed street car found his ground ever so slightly going into 2nd when bracket racing (it doesn't do it on the street, even when shifting "enthusiastically", and yes, it has new synchros) and someone here figured out that if you reduced the mass of the shafts to closer to stock it didn't overpower the synchro rings. And that's why I learned how to drill gears.

Drilling holes and seeing how light we could make the rest of it has become a bit of an obsession; the idea now is to see how close to 4 speed weight I can make my Berg 5. And I don't use the word obsession lightly- I have 100 (or more) hours drilling (with my dinky little drill press), grinding and hand filing the clutch arm (20? hours and about 60 grams from 150 originally) and shift forks (80 grams) alone. Getting into my friend's shop has made it so much easier. I still have 4th gear, the ring gear, pinion and mainshafts (we'll see if we do anything there) and maybe the differential housing. And I'm sure I'll find a few more small things to drill holes in along the way.

A lot of transaxle parts have some sort of surface hardening; regular HSS drill bits (and even cobalt; the end just chipped) aren't hard enough and won't touch it. The investment I now have in carbide bits is getting quite sizeable. The carbide stuff is brittle, and if you're not careful, easy to break, and at $20 for a 1/8" (I've broken 2), upwards of $60 for a 14" bit (broken 1), and $125 for 7/16 (havent' broken that yet, knock on wood), you yell pretty loud when they break. And then you've gotta get the broken piece out. I've gotten surprisingly good at it...

Later guys! Al (time to go down into the garage before anybody gets up and do some more filing and grinding on that !@#$%!!! mount! There gotta be another 4 ozs somewhere!)

Last edited by ALB

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