I know what you mean, Pete, about you saying it's not as easy as you'd think. There's a lot of measuring and preparation (and more measuring, and double checking and then measuring again!) to make sure the holes go exactly where you want them. It takes 3, 4 (and sometimes way more) time to set up than it does to actually drill the stupid holes. I've been drilling, grinding, and filing transaxle parts off and on for 8 or 9 months in preparation for my Berg 5 going back together. And I haven't ruined any parts yet with holes in the wrong place (yeah, I just knocked on wood!). Lots of measuring...
Not counting the mount I've removed a little over 2 lbs from shift forks, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and reverse gears, reverse idler shaft, clutch cross shaft and arm, and a couple other small parts. This all started because lightening 1st and 2nd gear makes shifting slightly easier- a guy in town with a Berg 5 in a turboed street car found his ground ever so slightly going into 2nd when bracket racing (it doesn't do it on the street, even when shifting "enthusiastically", and yes, it has new synchros) and someone here figured out that if you reduced the mass of the shafts to closer to stock it didn't overpower the synchro rings. And that's why I learned how to drill gears.
Drilling holes and seeing how light we could make the rest of it has become a bit of an obsession; the idea now is to see how close to 4 speed weight I can make my Berg 5. And I don't use the word obsession lightly- I have 100 (or more) hours drilling (with my dinky little drill press), grinding and hand filing the clutch arm (20? hours and about 60 grams from 150 originally) and shift forks (80 grams) alone. Getting into my friend's shop has made it so much easier. I still have 4th gear, the ring gear, pinion and mainshafts (we'll see if we do anything there) and maybe the differential housing. And I'm sure I'll find a few more small things to drill holes in along the way.
A lot of transaxle parts have some sort of surface hardening; regular HSS drill bits (and even cobalt; the end just chipped) aren't hard enough and won't touch it. The investment I now have in carbide bits is getting quite sizeable. The carbide stuff is brittle, and if you're not careful, easy to break, and at $20 for a 1/8" (I've broken 2), upwards of $60 for a 14" bit (broken 1), and $125 for 7/16 (havent' broken that yet, knock on wood), you yell pretty loud when they break. And then you've gotta get the broken piece out. I've gotten surprisingly good at it...
Later guys! Al (time to go down into the garage before anybody gets up and do some more filing and grinding on that !@#$%!!! mount! There gotta be another 4 ozs somewhere!)