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Lads, I'm thinking of building up a new motor after Carlisle and while there are many posts on the subject, can anyone recommend a particular combination of components that will give a good hp jump over my stock 1600 engine ? I don't need more than 100 hp, need good driveablity and I hope to keep the stock tranny. I don't like ongoing messing with carbs either, so a set it and forget it type would be preferable. Thanks.

David Stroud

 '92 IM Roadster D 2.3 L Air Cooled

Ottawa, Canada

 

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Lads, I'm thinking of building up a new motor after Carlisle and while there are many posts on the subject, can anyone recommend a particular combination of components that will give a good hp jump over my stock 1600 engine ? I don't need more than 100 hp, need good driveablity and I hope to keep the stock tranny. I don't like ongoing messing with carbs either, so a set it and forget it type would be preferable. Thanks.
How much you have to spend and are you doing work or someone else? New heads and Kadrons are $600 (parts only) - good for 60 hp. With no machining - the largest you can go is 1641/1679cc though (87/88mm bore). That's not a bad engine with a CW crank, 110 cam and lightened flywheel - good for 80-90 hp. Won't chirp tires in 2nd though. A 1915cc takes opening up the case spigots and enlarging the head but uses the 69mm crank (weak point). Going larger takes extra coin for a stroked crank (74 or 78mm)and clearancing the case. A 1915 can be done for just over $1G - and is near 100hp. Double-triple $$ that for any larger. A head with bigger valves is nice for 1915 and mandatory fopr larger. A new 110 or hotter cam is needed to get extra performance. An exhaust that breats and carbs that flow quickly increase the cost.
David - FWIW, I have an 1835 w/dual Kadrons, 1:25-lift rocker arms, 3:88 Freeway Flier tranny, external oil-cooler w/thermostat fan and A-1 Sidewinder exhaust. A relatively inexpensive engine set-up that cranks out maybe 85hp but is definitely a lot more zip than a stock 1600.

I've run it all day at highway speeds without issue (75-80 mph), it consistently gets 28 mpg and it has been as reliable as I could ever hope for. I never have to fuss with the engine/carbs with only annual routine engine maintenance. I get in, start it up, drive away!

...I'm just saying...

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  • Cambria Feb 07
David, I started out where you are now (stock, 1600 cc single carb).
Almost every other car on the road was faster.
I moved up to a 1776; (69x90.5)dual 40 Webers, mild cam.
A big improvement, but after a year or two I wanted more power (big surprise).
My next move was to a 2110 (82x90.5). Dual 44 Webers, 86b cam, Pauter rocks...
Now we're talking!
Then, I sold my IM. (to this day I can't figure out why)
Well, she's back, with a vengeance. This time it's a 2265cc and she's fuel injected. I'm hoping for 150/160 hp.

The point I'm trying to make is that horsepower is addictive. If you're like many of us on this forum, you'll want more.
My advice is to go for something in the 2110cc range. If anything, you'll appreciate the torque, which can be used every day.
Here's my take:

In 2000, I bought a car of unknown origin on ebay. It had a Serrano 1776 with dual kads. I told myself it was great, but it ran hot and was never quite enough. I'd guess it at 60 h/p.

I had the same engine in my JPS, and by the time I bought the IM
(as a roller), I thought I had it figured out. I had a 2110 with a pair of jacked up AJ Sims Kads (46mm). I never could get it to run right. I put on a pair of 40 Dellorotos, and was pretty happy.

... but being a torque junkie, I had to have more. I did a 2332 with all the stops pulled out. It's pretty cool, but to some extent it's a zero sum game. Nothing's free, and you pay dearly for every single horsepower over about 125 or so. I had 200, so I paid a LOT.

I wouldn't have considered anything less than a 2110 until I recently purchased a '64 panel with a nearly stock engine. It's surprisingly nice.

It's easy to get carried away. Jim's advice is really sound- if I was a "normal" guy (instead of an obsessive/compulsive maniac), I'd do this:

1915, with a 110 cam. Forged and counter-weighted crank, and good pistons and rings. Stock VW doghouse shroud (flaps included). 1-1/2" A1 sidewinder with EMPI flanged 1-1/2" heater boxes. I'd probably use dual Dellortos (40mm), but would try the 34 Solex with the electric chokes. I'd run about 8.5:1 compression with a set of mildly ported VW heads (043 would be nice), and be happy. That engine would run for 80K mi, and return 30 mpg. It'd be "snappy", and run cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

In short, it'd be everything you'd expect a speedster to be.

Because I'm me- I wanted 911 performance out of my flat 4, and ended up paying 911 prices for it. I'm happy. I can't recommend this route for everybody.

Stay simple= be happy.
One of the easiest engine builds that includes a stroker crank shaft is done with a 74mm crank. A Stock 1600 or the 1915 use a 69mm stroke crank. SO as you can see, a 74mm crank it's slightly larger.
Just for reference, a stock VW 1600 uses 85.5mm pistons and a 69mm crank.
A stock Porsche 1600 4 cylinder engine used 82.5mm pistons and a 74mm crank.

If you want a simple engine that doesn't require the case to be hogged out for rotational clearance then just drop in a 74 mm crank and 2.5 mm spacers under the cylinders and you have a 1700 cc engine
if you use stock 85.5 mm pistons.

If you want to get more elaborate then have the case cut and heads cut for 94 mm pistons and use the 74 crank for a total displacement of 2055 cc's

Remember, virtually anytime you stroke an engine, you get more torque than if you had just increased the piston diameter alone.

http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Demello_forged_German_crankshafts_p/dmscranks.htm
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