More details added to Spyder.

John, I recommend replacing those valve cover bolts. I used Allen key bolts with 3 holes drilled in the heads so I can safety wire them together. They do have a tendency to back out, and when they do, you'll start hemorrhaging oil.

Not the best picture, but you get the idea:

Danny, mine are Allen key heads, but obviously not the proper design to accommodate your modification.  I have to remove the covers to make the past-through bolts longer for the breather hoses.  I'll get it done then.  Thanks for the reminder, Sir. ;-)

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Danny's photo, enhanced a bit:

@Sacto Mitch Mitch, thank you, Sir.  

Think about getting yourself a pair of safety wire twisting pliers and follow these guidelines for a nice secure installation, if not total overkill.

Nice job with the expanded metal mesh!

@Jon T Thanks for the academic documentation of the proper installation of safety wire!  That method oughta get it done!

@edsnova posted:

Nice job with the expanded metal mesh!

Thanks, Ed.  All of the little details are the fun part, right? 😉

I was an Aviation Electrician in the Navy.  I still have my trusty wire twister. I can't count how many times I removed and replaced SS safety wire on all types of equipment aboard fighters and helicopters. It is nearly foolproof if done right.  To this day, I still wire up fasteners where needed.  I'm always surprised how many guys are unaware of how to do it right.  But then,  any wire is better than nothing.  I have used springs in place of the wire.  This is especially useful on air cleaner lids.............Bruce

@aircooled Bruce, indeed, Jon's post taught me something, as I'm certainly one of the ignorant mechanics you're referring to.  ;-) 

And while I may not follow those instruction to the letter, I will for sure be installing wires on the covers. 

John......You are definitely not ignorant.  I apologize if you understood me to say that.  From my observations over the years,  guys install the safety wire. The most common mistake is they don't install it such that it makes the wire get tighter if the fastener tries to un-screw,  plus tightens the adjacent fastener.  One picture is worth a thousand words.....hence,  the diagram Jon T sent.

On my air cleaners,  I used wing nuts with holes drilled in both wings.  When sufficiently tight,  I stretched a spring between them in the same pattern in Jon T's diagram.  This has worked well for me and makes it easy to remove and install the air cleaners without any tools...........Bruce

@aircooled Oh, Bruce >> I was completely making a self-effacing remark!  No offense taken, Sir.   I was just making the point that I've never been exposed to this technique before -- but now I know, thanks to Jon and yourself.  I'm here to learn, and the folks on this forum have been consistently generous in teaching me new things as I work my way through my Spyder. 

A few things to consider:

That photo above was taken BEFORE the safety wire was twisted. And I was using Mig wire at the time, which is too thick at 0.035". I now have proper safety wire that twists easily.

I drilled the hex bolt heads every other hex face, so 120 degree spacing, so you can't run the wire straight across like you do on a drilled hex bolt.

Additionally, the bolts are recessed rather deeply into the valve covers, so catching one hole is about all you can get. It's not a crucial suspension bolt, but you just don't want to lose one. You'll get a bit of oil loss if one falls out.

My air cleaner housings are attached with star washers and wing nuts and have never given the slightest indication of ever getting undone by themselves.  There's always a first time, I guess.  Safety wire is a bit over the top, IMHO, and clearly iron clad.

Proper valve cover fasteners: again, in my humble opinion you simply cannot beat the original VW design with the wire spring bale -- or is that bail?? Absolutely the surest seal for the oil vs any other system that depends on threaded fasteners.  My car came with really cool looking aluminum finned cast valve covers, attached with neat-o shoulder bolts.  Leaked like a sieve. Ditched them for the stamped steel VW  OEMs and no problems since.  Just sayin' . . .

@DannyP posted:

A few things to consider:

That photo above was taken BEFORE the safety wire was twisted. And I was using Mig wire at the time, which is too thick at 0.035". I now have proper safety wire that twists easily.

I drilled the hex bolt heads every other hex face, so 120 degree spacing, so you can't run the wire straight across like you do on a drilled hex bolt.

Additionally, the bolts are recessed rather deeply into the valve covers, so catching one hole is about all you can get. It's not a crucial suspension bolt, but you just don't want to lose one. You'll get a bit of oil loss if one falls out.

Thanks, Danny.  I carried the wife to Lowes yesterday evening for a quick date night.  Yeah, I'm a romantic kinda guy.  :-p

I bought the recommended hex bolts.  I'll report back with photos after they're installed (with safety wires, of course).