More Oil Filter Data

Would like to convert mine to an exterior oil filter.  How hard to do and what is the cost involved.

Thanks

Russ

russtri..   You'll need to remove the engine and drill and tap it for a full flow system.   Depending on where you live and your mechanical abilitites will determine the cost.   

Larry--that was  "keeper" and a copy went into my resource file.---same as most of what yopu post for us!

I have been using the Mann 021 115 351A and have a good stock of them but I know nothing about PSI and micron ratings for that filter.   If you know, is my Mann anywhere close to the specs of the WIX 51622?

Thanks for all you do to help here!

Jack, I tried looking up that part number in Mann's web site.   They have no record of that part number.   http://www.mannfiltersrus.com/...filters/part_lookup/

Thanks for the info, Larry.

I've used the 5151R for a number of trouble free years.  I figure if my 1970 Beetle went 120,000 miles with only the small screen at the bottom of the engine, I'll be okay with a filter that filters down to 61 microns.

Ron, I agree but since there was so much chatter on "microns" I decided to post the above information for those  who feel they need "small micron counts" and high burst pressure.

Good info Larry; thanks for the research.

Thanks, Larry. Erudite as usual.

Thanks for the tech tip, Larry! Like I've always said, I learn something new EVERY TIME I visit this site! 

Further clarification..   None of your engine oil pumps will produce 500 PSI or for that matter 290 PSI but they may produce 80 to 100 PSI.   

The problem isn't the cannister burst pressure of 290 or 500 psi. The problem is the rubber seal. Both the 51515R and the 51622 have a reinforced seal that prevents oil from escaping under pressure. In the early 70's when the WIX 51515R wasn't around I used a Fram HP1 on my modified VW engine because if I used a Fram Ph8A it would blow oil from the rubber seal. The HP1 had and still has a reinforced seal but the filtering element is junk.

Larry,

I just went through the ordeal of having to find this filter after talking to Carey Hines about this.

Carey filled me in on the differences in the regular 51515 and the "R" version (apparently the R is much better). I was able to find it at Summit Racing online -- I bought 5 (to avoid the last minute frenzy of trying to find one locally) for $9.97 each.

I'm with Jack -- I keep everything you and Carey post -- pure GOLD!

Anand

Maybe some boots, maybe?

If you're over 50 then the answer is yes. 

Do you currently have an external oil cooler? If so easy - as it can be plumbed into the same feed line.  Filter base, bracket, oil line, clamps, filter about $50. Can also add bypass thermostat - cooler doesn't currently have.  If just stock engine then easiest way is to add a CB 1792 Maxi pump 2 with filter for $60.  I can interfere with some exhausts.

The proper way is to tap the engine case for full flow but it requires an engine tear down.

Wolfgang- I have heard of people modifiying the case for a full flow fitting with the motor still installed in the car; put grease in the flutes of the tap to catch the chips (you may have to clean it a couple times and regrease before you're finished). I've also read about someone putting an air pressure fitting in the oil cap to positively pressurize the motor and blow the chips out. A certain type 4 guru tested the filter pump assemblies and found the small passages (1/4") in the cover couldn't handle the amount coming out of the pump above about 6,000rpm, so for higher rpm use the cover needs to modified (I don't know offhand if it can be done) or the case needs to be drilled/tapped and the regular full flow set up used.